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UNIVERSfty  HEIGHTS  U\ 

DUNPHY 

Received 

JUN         1922 


THJE    BAILEY  ©Bt  IHOWTM  M&HHT-EI01USE. 


PICTURESQUE    SCENERY 
IN    IRELAND 


DRAWN  BY  THOMAS  CRESWICK,  R.A. 


ENGRA  VED  ON  STEEL 


WITH 


DESCRIPTIVE    JOTTINGS    BY    A    TOURIST 


NEW  YORK 
R.  WORTHINGTON,  770,  BROADWAY 

1881 


Til    0 


CONTENTS. 


TART    I.— LEINSTER. 


DUBLIN. 


City  of  Dublin  and  its  Environs — Howth :  the  Abbey  and  College ;  the  Castle ; 
Hill  of  Howth;  the  Lighthouse;  the  Harbour — Islands  of  Ireland's  Eye  and 
Lambay — Malahide — Swords — -Kingstown :  the  Harbour — Dalkey — Dalkey 
and  Dalkey  Island— Killiney  Hill 


PAGE 


WICKLOW. 

"The  Scalp" — Enniskerry — Bray — Glen  of  the  Dargle — Lover's  Leap — Powers- 
court — Powerscourt  Waterfall — Loughs  Bray— Glen  of  the  Downs — Sugar- 
loaf  Mountain — Delgany — Newtown  Mount  Kennedy — The  Devil's  Glen — 
Rosanna — Pass  of  Dunran — Roundwdod — Luggelaw— Lough  Bay — Lough 
Dan — Glendalough — Ruins  of  the  Seven  Churches — St.  Kevin's  Bed — Legend 
of  the  Saint  and  Kathleen — Glenmalure — "Meeting  of  the  Waters" — Vale 
of  Ovoca — Arklow   ............ 


12 


PART    II— MUNSTER. 

CORK  AND  WATERFORD. 

County  Cork  :  its  Coast  Line — Bantry  Bay — Cork  Harbour — Haulbowline,  Spike, 
and  Rocky  Island — Queenstown — Black  Rock  Castle — City  of  Cork — Ros- 
tellan  Castle — Castle  Mary — Cloyne — Blarney :  its  Castle — The  Blarney 
Stone — Youghal — The  River  Blackwatcr :  Objects  of  Interest  on  its  Banks 
■ — Cappoquin — Lismorc  ;  its  Castle  and  Grounds — Mount  Mclleray  Abbey 

3021 


3o 


iv  CONTENTS. 


KERRY. 

PAGE 

Routes  to  Killarney — Bantry — Glengariff — Kenmare—  Lough  Allua— Gougane 
Barra — Pass  of  Keimaneigli — Killarney :  General  Description  of  the  Lakes — ■ 
The  Upper  Lake — The  Long  Range — The  Middle  Lake — Tore  Mountain — 
Muekross  Abbey — The  Lower  Lake — Aghadoe— Gap  of  Dunloe — Black  Valley 
— Macgillieuddy's  Reeks — Mangerton  Mountain — Glen  of  the  Horse — Lough 
Guitane 49 


LIMERICK  AND  CLARE. 

Limerick  City — The  Cathedral — The  Castle— The  Upper  Shannon — Falls  of 
Doonas — Castle-Connel — Killaloe — Lough  Derg — The  Lower  Shannon — 
Ennis — Foynes — Tarbert— Scattery  Island — Kilrush — Kilkee — Cave  of  Kilkee 
— Puffing  Rock — Ross  Bridges — Coast-line,  County  Clare— Hag's  Head — 
Cliffs  of  Moher 


PART   III— ULSTER. 

FERMANAGH,  DONEGAL,  AND  LONDONDERRY. 

The  North  of  Ireland — Enniskillen — Loftgh  Erne  :  its  Islands,  Ruins,  and  general 
f oatures  — County  Fermanagh — Ballyshannon — The  Salmon-leap — Bundoran 
— County  Donegal — Kilbarron  Castle — The  "Pullins"  Gap — Lough  Derg: 
Station  Island  and  St.  Patrick's  Purgatory — Donegal  Town,  Castle,  and 
Abbey — Mount  Charles — Lough  Esk — Pass  of  Barnes — Lough  Mourne — 
Curious  method  of  pike-fishing — Stranorlar  to  Strabane— Londonderry — 
Coleraine  .............       89 


ANTRIM  AND  ARMAGH. 

Tortrush — The  White  Rocks — Dunluce  Castle — Portcoon  and  Dunkerry  Caves — 
The  Steucans — The  Causeways  :  Little,  Middle,  and  Great — Giant's  Gateway 
and  Loom — Giant's  Organ — Portnoffer  Bay — Giant's  Amphitheatre — Giant's 
Chimney -tops — rort-na-Spania — The  Pleaskin — Bengore  Head — Portmoon 
Bay — The  Stack — Dunseverick  Castle — Carrick-a-Rede — Kenbane  Head — 
Ballycastle— Rathlin  Island— "The  Grey  Man's  Path  "—Fair  Head— Cushen- 
(1 1  m  —  Cushcndall  —  Glenariff —  Garron  Tower — Glenarm  —  Larne  —  "  Island 
Magee  "  —  Carrickf  ergus — Belfast — Armagh — Conclusion        ....     105 


LIST    OF   STEEL  ENGRAVINGS. 


light-house  at  howth,  dublin 

Town  of  Enniskerry,  "Wicklow 

powerscourt  avaterfall,  wlcklow     .... 

LuGGELAW,    OR    LoUGH    TaY,    WlCKLOW     .... 

Glendalough  :  Ruins  of  the  Seven  Churches    . 
Bantry  Bay,  Cork  ....... 

Lismore  Castle,  Waterford  ..... 

Torc  Mountain,  from  Dinis  Island,  Killarney 

Lower  Lake,  Killarney 

The  Gap  of  Dunloe,  Killarney 

Comme  Dhuv,  "the  Black  Valley"      .... 

Falls  of  Doonas,  Rapids  of  the  Shannon,  Castle-Connel 
klllaloe  on  the  shannon     ...... 

The  Lower  Lough  Erne,  Fermanagh 
Ballyshannon,  Donegal  ...... 

Donegal  Castle      

Dunluce  Castle,  Antrim 

Promontory  of  Fair  Head,  Antrim     .... 

Castle  of  Caiuuckfergus,  Antrim 

(  ity  of  Armagh 


Page 

Frontispiece 

To  face  page  13 
16 
21 
24 
35 
■11 
56 
59 


67 

69 

78 

SI 

00 

93 

99 

106 

115 

118 

122 


INTBODUCTOKY. 


TN  these  days  of  overtaxed  mental  and  bodily  powers  change  of 
air  has  become  a  matter  of  prudence.  To  dwellers  in  crowded 
cities,  the  annual  holiday  means  something  more  than  idle  recreation 
— it  involves  restoring  exhausted  nature,  and  possibly  preventing 
disease.  To  such  the  question,  "Where  shall  we  go?"  is  an  im- 
portant one.  True,  there  are  those  time-honoured  spots  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Thames,  and  on  the  South  Coast,  dear  to  our 
childhood.  On  their  shores  our  cheeks  grew  rounder  and  ruddier, 
as  we  made  sand-pies  or  constructed  docks  and  batteries  with  the 
same  unstable  materials  :  Mamma,  happy  in  our  happiness,  smil- 
ingly observant  of  our  proceedings  as  she  stitched  away  in  the 
welcome  shade  cast  by  a  boat  or  a  bathing-machine  ;  while  the 
advent  of  Paterfamilias  at  the  end  of  the  week,  for  a  few  days, 
completed  the  domestic  idyl. 

Against    these    revered    spots — although    some    of    them    are 
strangely  deficient  in  picturesque  scenery — we  havo    nothing   to 


viii  INTRODUCTORY. 

say.  Peace  be  to  their  sands  !  Their  long-continued  popularity  is 
conclusive  evidence  that  to  families,  at  all  events,  they  afford  the 
required  accommodation.  But  young  men,  and  others  who  have 
not  yet  assumed  the  responsibility  of  parents,  might  do  better 
than  pass  their  holiday,  year  after  year,  on  a  belt  of  sand,  or 
shingle,  of  about  the  dimensions  of  a  good-sized  bowling-green. 
By  going  farther  afield  they  would  secure  the  advantages  of 
thorough  change  of  air  and  scene,  and  that  at  but  a  slight 
increased  expenditure  of  time  and  money. 

To  urge  the  claims  of  Ireland  as  a  profitable  field  for  the 
Tourist  is  the  main  object  of  these  pages.  The  sister  country 
abounds  in  varied  and  beautiful  scenery,  the  people  are  most 
interesting,  and  the  air  is  mild  yet  invigorating  ;  while  the  rail- 
roads are  so  conveniently  laid  that  trips  can  be  taken  with  great 
expedition  from  one  point  of  interest  to  another.  To  these  advan- 
tages may  be  added,  that  travelling  and  hotel  expenses  are  cheaper 
in  Ireland  than  they  are  in  England. 

This  little  work  is  not  merely  designed  as  a  Tourist's  Guide-book  to 
Ireland,  laying  down  plans  for  specified  routes,  with  hotel  expenses, 
elaborate  descriptions  of  public  buildings,  statistics,  &c.  Many 
admirable  works  of  that  kind  already  exist,  which  may  be  consulted 
by  the  visitor  with  great  advantage  ;  but  these  books  naturally 
present  few  attractions  to  the  general  reader.  What  is  aimed  at  in 
these  pages  is  to  supply,  by  a  series  of  high-class  Steel  Engravings, 
representative  examples  of  the  Scenery  of  Ireland  ;  and  to  pro- 
duce   a    book   which    may   also    serve   as  a  pleasant   souvenir   of 


INTRODUCTORY.  ix 

the  Tourist's  visit.  Without  the  aid  of  pictorial  embellishment 
the  present  task  would  never  have  been  undertaken  :  by  its  means, 
it  is  believed,  the  work  will  find  favour  with  the  public,  and  may 
stimulate  the  curiosity  of  many  to  see  in  reality  what  is  here  so 
ably  pictured.  As  a  guarantee  of  the  excellence  of  the  Illustra- 
tions, it  may  be  added  the  Plates  were  engraved  from  Drawings 
by  that  eminent  landscape  painter,  Mr.  T.  Creswick,  K.A.    . 

The  work  has  been  divided  into  Three  Parts,  each  Part  devoted 
to  a  popular  portion  of  the  country  usually  visited  by  Tourists. 
The  western  Province  of  Connaught^  not  being  much  visited  by 
the  class  of  excursionists  to  whom  this  book  is  principally 
addressed,  is  not  dwelt  on.  Although  it  has  not  been  deemed 
desirable  to  lay  down  rigidly  defined  routes,  a  systematic  pro- 
gression from  place  to  place  has  been  adopted,  in  connection  with 
the  railway  system  of  the  country.  The  routes  indicated  in  these 
pages  can,  of  course,  be  modified  to  suit  the  convenience  of  the 
traveller. 

It  is  possible — but  not  desirable — for  the  Tourist  to  visit  all 
three  Provinces  in  a  fortnight,  briefly  viewing  the  chief  objects  of 
interest ;  but  it  will  be  found  far  more  pleasant  and  profitable  to 
confine  himself  to  one  or  two  parts  of  the  island  at  a  time.  On  a 
first  visit,  Dublin  and  its  environs,  with  the  Wicklow  Mountains, 
might  be  taken  ;  on  a  second,  Killarney  and  the  south  of  Ireland  ; 
on  a  third,  Belfast  and  the  north  of  Ireland,  with  the  Giant's 
Causeway  ;  on  a  fourth,  Gal  way  and  Connemara,  with  the  west  of 
Ireland.      The  Tourist  with  a  fortnight's  holiday  might  well  take 

6 


x  INTRODUCTORY. 

the  east  and  the  north  of  the  island  at  one  trip,  or  the  south  and 
the  west. 

In  the  season,  Tourist  Tickets  are  issued  on  favourable  terms 
by  the  railway  companies,  and  the  arrangements  are  made  with 
considerable  ingenuity  to  suit  the  convenience  of  all  classes. 
Perhaps  it  will  be  as  well  to  hint  that  the  shortest  sea  route,  via 
Holyhead,  should  always  be  adopted  if  possible,  as  the  Irish  Sea  is 
apt  to  be  very  trying  to  indifferent  sailors. 


PAKT  L— LEINSTEE. 


DUBLIN  AND  WICKLOW. 


B 


DUBLIN. 

City  of  Dublin  and  its  Environs—  Howth :  the  Abbey  and  College ;  the  Castle ;  Hill  of 
Howth;  the  Lighthouse;  the  Harbour— Islands  of  Ireland's  Eye  and  Lambay — 
Malahide — Swords — Kingstown  :  the  Harbour — Dalkey — Dalkey  and  Dalkey  Island 
— Killincy  Hill. 

rpHERE  are  few  cities  in  the  world  so  auspiciously  situated  as 
the  metropolis  of  Ireland.  It  is  intersected  by  the  river 
Liffey,  which  flows  from  west  to  east,  and  discharges  itself  into 
the  noble  bay,  which  is  guarded  on  the  one  side  by  the  Hill  of 
Howth,  and  on  the  other  by  Killiney  Hill,  near  Kingstown. 
Fresh  breezes  from  the  ocean  and  the  hills  contribute  to  keep  it 
healthy  ;  while  the  most  lovely  scenery  is  within  an  hour's  walk 
of  its  crowded  streets.  This  fine  city  extends  more  than  three 
miles  in  length,  in  a  direct  line  from  east  to  west,  and  is  nearly 
of  equal  extent  from  north  to  south.  It  is  encompassed  by  a 
"  Circular  Road,"  in  extent  about  nine  Irish  miles.  The  river 
Liffey  is  navigable  as  far  as  Carlisle  Bridge,  in  the  centre  of  the 
town.  It  would  be  difficult  to  find  in  any  city  a  more  magnificent 
view  than  can  be  obtained  from  the  centre  of  this  bridge  on  a  fine 


summer  s  morning. 


Dublin  contains  many  fine  buildings,   but  descriptions  of  these 
structures  are  rarely  interesting.      The  tourist  who  has  little  time 

B    -2 


4  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

to  spare  is  recommended  to  hire  a  car  for  a  few  hours,  and  allow 
the  driver  to  act  as  guide  to  the  leading  objects  of  interest.  This 
will  probably  be  the  visitor's  first  experience  of  locomotion  by 
means  of  the  Irish  car.  They  are  of  three  kinds  :  the  "  covered 
car,"  the  "  inside  "  jaunting  car,  and  the  "  outside  "  car.  The 
latter  are  more  generally  used,  in  which  the  travellers  sit  back  to 
back,  with  their  legs  outside  the  wheels.  This  style  of  transit  has 
been  appropriately  designated  "travelling  edgeways,"  and  has  been 
objected  to  as  giving  the  traveller  a  "  one-sided  view  of  things." 
However,  when  the  fear  is  overcome  of  having  your  legs  chopped  off 
at  the  knees  by  every  passing  vehicle,  these  conveyances  are  found 
to  be  safe  and  pleasant.  The  neatly  constructed  cars  to  be  met 
with  in  Dublin  and  other  large  cities  bear  little  resemblance  to  the 
"  low-back  cars "  in  use  in  the  more  rural  districts.  The  car- 
dvivers  are  a  genus  in  themselves,  wherever  met  with.  Like  all 
Irishmen,  they  are  mostly  quaint  and  witty,  with  that  peculiar  sly 
humour  so  eminently  Irish. 

A  few  of  the  leading  public  buildings  which  ornament  the  city 
may  be  briefly  noticed.  The  Bank  of  Ireland,  in  College  Green, 
formerly  used  as  the  Parliament  House,  is  an  elegant  edifice, 
built  of  Portland  stone.  Trinity  College  is  situated  opposite 
the  Bank,  with  which  its  architectural  beauty  harmonizes. 
Dublin  Castle,  the  residence  of  the  Viceroy,  is  by  no  means  an 
imposing  structure  as  seen  from  the  street ;  it  is,  however,  of  great 
antiquity.  The  Four  Courts,  College  of  Surgeons,  Post  Office, 
Barracks,  &c,  are  all  handsome,  chiefly  of  Grecian  architecture. 
The  Custom  House  is  a  truly  noble  pile,  the  principal  front  facing 
the  river. 

Many  of  the  churches   in  Dublin  are  of  great  antiquity,  and 


LEINSTER.  5 

also  interesting  from  historical  associations.  Christ's  Church 
Cathedral  is  said  to  have  been  first  erected  in  1038.  The  church, 
however,  as  it  now  stands,  is  of  comparatively  modern  date.  It 
was  in  this  cathedral  that  the  Church  Liturgy  was  first  read  in 
Ireland  in  the  English  tongue.  In  the  nave  are  to  be  seen  many 
ancient  monuments  of  great  beauty  and  interest.  St.  Patrick 
erected  a  place  of  worship  near  the  well  in  which  he  baptized  his 
converts  :  this  is  said  to  be  on  the  site  of  the  Cathedral  of  St. 
Patrick.  There  is  evidence  that  the  original  pile  existed  in  890  ; 
but  the  present  building  was  begun  in  1190.  Swift  was  Dean  of 
this  cathedral,  and  marble  slabs  mark  his  resting-place  and  that  of 
the  "Stella"  of  his  poetry.  The  cathedral  has  been  entirely  restored 
since  1860,  at  the  sole  cost  of  the  late  Sir  B.  L.  Guinness,  who 
expended  the  princely  sum  of  upwards  of  £140,000  upon  it. 

Of  monumental  adornments,  the  chief  are  Nelson's  Monument, 
the  Wellington  Testimonial,  and  the  statue  to  the  memory  of  the 
poet  Moore.  The  Nelson  Monument  is  a  fluted  column  121  feet 
high,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  the  naval  hero.  From  the 
summit  a  most  extensive  and  delightful  panoramic  view  of  the 
city  and  surrounding  country  is  obtained.  The  Wellington  Tes- 
timonial Avas  erected  by  his  fellow-townsmen  of  Dublin  at  a 
cost  of  £20,000.  It  consists  of  a  quadrangular  truncated 
obelisk,  of  Wicklow  granite.  Sunken  panels  contain  relievos  in 
metal,  one  of  them  representing  the  Duke  himself  being  crowned 
with  laurel.  Of  this  Testimonial  the  volatile  Oxonian  Tourist 
remarks — "  The  names  of  his  great  battles  are  graven  on  the 
obelisk,  Waterloo  being,  of  course,  omitted.  .  I  say  '  of  course,' 
because  there  is  something  so  delightfully  Irish  in  this  small 
oversight,    that   it  seems  quite   natural    and   appropriate  ;  and    I 


6  SCENERF  IN  IRELAND. 

« 

should  as  little  dream  of  being  surprised  or  vexed  by  it,  as  if  in 

an   Irish    edition  of  Milton   I    could   find  no    '  Paradise    Lost.' 

The  poet  Moore  was  also   a  Dublin  man,   of  whom  the  citizens 

are  justly  proud.       His  statue  is  situated  at  the  top  of  College 

Street,  fronting  the  grand  portico  of  the  Bank.      He  was  born  in 

a  queer-looking  old  house,  No.  12,  Aungier  Street. 

The  Glasnevin  Botanical  Gardens  are  well  worth  a  visit.  They 
comprise  about  forty-three  acres  of  ground.  Their  fine  undulating 
surface,  through  which  the  clear  waters  of  the  Tolka  flow,  is 
elegantly  laid  out,  and  shaded  by  overhanging  trees  ;  while  the 
intersecting  walks  are  adorned  with  numerous  shrubs  and  beauti- 
ful flowers.  In  the  splendid  conservatories  are  to  be  seen  a  vast 
variety  of  rare  and  valuable  trees  and  plants,  native  and  exotic. 
The  ground  formerly  belonged  to  the  poet  Tickell,  who  came  to 
Ireland  with  Addison,  when  the  latter  was  secretary  to  Lord  Sun- 
derland. One  of  the  walks  in  the  grounds  is  named  "  Addison's 
Walk."  It  is  generally  admitted  that  for  extent  and  beauty  these 
Gardens  are  second  to  none  in  Europe. 

Phoenix  Park  should  also  be  seen.  It  is  the  most  extensive 
public  park  in  the  kingdom,  containing  some  1,750  acres  of  green 
sward  and  trees,  with  plenty  of  deer.  From  its  extent — being 
seven  miles  in  circumference — it  would  be  advisable  for  the  tourist 
to  take  a  car,  and  the  driver  will  point  out  the  several  beautiful 
views  which  can  be  obtained  from  various  parts.  In  addition  to 
its  lakes,  romantic  glens,  shady  walks,  and  pleasing  retreats,  the 
Park  possesses  many  other  objects  of  interest.  Near  the  entrance 
is  the  Wellington  Testimonial,  already  noticed  ;  the  Carlisle 
Memorial  Statue,  the  Military  Hospital,  the  Zoological  Gardens, 
&c,  are  also  within  the  Park. 


LE1NSTER.  7 

Having  briefly  indicated  a  few  of  the  prominent  features  in  the 
city,  the  environs  of  Dublin  will  now  be  noticed.  Those  who  have 
time,  and  are  fond  of  systematic  sight-seeing,  will  do  well  to  pro- 
vide themselves  with  Black's  "  Guide  to  Ireland,"  which  is  cheap 
and  reliable. 

The  tourist  who  is  desirous  to  make  himself  acquainted  with 
the  beauties  of  the  renowned  Bay  of  Dublin  should  pay  a  visit  to 
Howth  and  the  other  small  towns  which  lie  north  of  the  city,  to 
which  the  Drogheda  Railway  furnishes  cheap  and  speedy  conveyance. 

The  views,  both  coastwise  and  inland,  as  the  train  sweeps 
round  the  north  side  of  the  Bay,  are  very  beautiful.  Marino,  the 
classical  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Charlemont,  is  soon  passed.  The 
demesne,  which  is  liberally  thrown  open  for  public  inspection,  is 
laid  out  with  great  taste,  and  contains  an  exquisite  Doric  temple. 
The  memorable  plain  of  Clontarf  lies  to  the  left,  famous  as  the 
scene  of  Brian  Boroimhe's  last  victory  over  the  Danes.  As  the 
promontory  of  Howth  is  approached,  the  shores  become  bold  and 
rugged,  but  picturesque.  The  peninsula,  or,  as  it  is  usually 
called,  the  Hill  of  Howth,  jutting  into  the  sea,  forms  the  northern 
headland  of  Dublin  Bay,  and  the  little  town  and  harbour,  with 
the  Castle  of  Howth,  are  pleasantly  situated  under  the  shelter  of 
the  Hill,  which  rises  precipitously  behind  them. 

On  an  elevation  overhanging  the  sea  are  situated  the  venerable 
remains  of  Howth  Abbey,  within  the  ancient  churchyard.  The 
church  affords  an  index  of  the  general  state  of  society  at  its  erec- 
tion :  it  was  constructed  for  defence  as  well  as  for  devotion,  being 
surrounded  by  a  strong  embattled  wall.  Tradition  states  that  its 
foundations  were  laid  by  the  St.  Lawrences  early  in  the  thirteenth 
century.      Over   the   western    dot)]-  is   a   ruined   belfry.      The  bells 


8  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

which  formerly  belonged  to  the  abbey  are  now  preserved  in 
Howth  Castle ;  they  were  discovered  by  accident.  When  the 
new  church  was  built,  it  became  necessary  to  provide  a  bell  for  it : 
some  one  called  to  mind  a  tradition  that  the  old  bells  existed 
somewhere  about  the  Castle.  They  were  sought  for  and  found, 
where  they  had  lain  for  some  two  hundred  years. 

Of  the  so-called  College  of  Howth  there  are  also  some  remains, 
close  to  the  burial  ground  of  the  Abbey.  They  consist  of  a  hall, 
a  kitchen,  and  a  few  cells,  which  afford  shelter  to  several  poor 
families.  The  ruins  of  another  building — a  small  oratory  dedicated 
to  St.  Fenton — exist  a  little  to  the  west  of  the  Castle.  Besides 
these  remains,  several  others  are  observed  on  different  parts  of 
the  Hill ;  the  ground  being  peculiarly  rich  in  historic  and  tradi- 
tionary associations. 

Howth  Castle  is  the  family  seat  of  the  St.  Lawrences,  who  have 
held  it  since  the  time  of  their  ancestor,  Sir  Amorey  Tristram 
.  de  Valence,  who  landed  here  in  the  twelfth  century.  The  Castle, 
which  has  been  altered  at  various  periods,  and  was  in  a  great 
measure  rebuilt  in  the  sixteenth  century,  is  a  fine  old  structure. 
It  displays  a  long  battlemented  front,  flanked  by  towers.  A  sin- 
gular legend  is  connected  with  this  Castle.  In  1575  the  celebrated 
Grana  Uile,  or  Grace  O'Malley,  on  her  return  from  a  visit  to  Queen 
Elizabeth,  landed  at  Howth,  and  proceeded  to  the  Castle  ;  but 
feeling  indignant  at  finding  the  gates  closed,  as  was  the  custom 
of  the  family  during  the  hour  of  dinner,  she,  on  her  departure, 
seized  the  young  heir  of  St.  Lawrence,  then  at  nurse  near  the  sea- 
shore, and  carried  him  off  a  prisoner  to  her  castle.  He  was 
ultimately  released,  on  his  father  pledging  his  word  that  on  no 
pretence  whatever  should  the  gates  of  the  Castle  be  closed  at  the 


LEINSTER.  9 

hour  of  dinner.  This  promise  was  most  faithfully  kept  up  to  a 
very  recent  date.  A  painting  of  this  incident  is  preserved  in  the 
dining-room.  The  demesne  and  pleasure-grounds,  enriched  with 
fine  plantations,  are  very  beautiful,  and  on  the  occasions  when 
they  are  thrown  open  to  the  public  are  largely  attended. 

Proceeding  in  a  southerly  direction  from  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  Abbey,  the  tourist  will  arrive  at  the  highest  parts  of  the 
Hill  of  Howth,  properly  so  called,  which  are  nearly  580  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  At  the  eastern  extremities  of  these  heights 
is  the  old  lighthouse,  for  some  years  disused,  as,  from  its  great 
elevation,  it  was  often  involved  in  clouds  and  mist.  In  the 
splendid  views  which  can  be  obtained  from  this  and  the  neigh 
bouring  heights  are  included  the  varied  and  picturesque  mountains 
of  Dublin  and  Wicklow  on  the  south  and  west,  and  on  the  north 
the  mountains  of  Mourne,  at  a  distance  of  forty  miles.  More 
immediately  off  the  coast  are  seen  the  islands  of  Lambay  and 
Ireland's  Eye. 

Immediately  south  of  this  eminence,  and  up  wards  of  400  feet 
beneath  it,  on  the  summit  of  a  small  rock,  called  from  its  verdure 
"  The  Green  Bailey,"  is  seen  the  Howth  Lighthouse.  It  was 
erected  by  the  Ballast  Board  of  Dublin  in  1814.  The  light  is 
110  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  is  visible  at  a  distance  of 
seventeen  nautical  miles  in  clear  weather.  As  will  be  seen  from 
the  engraving,*  the  appearance  of  the  lighthouse  is  very  striking, 
standing  out  as  it  does  on  what  seems  to  be  an  insulated  rock. 

The  Harbour  of  Howth  was  constructed  by  the  celebrated 
engineer,  John  Ronnie,  and  was  intended  as  a  station  for  the 
Dublin  packets.      The  shifting  sands  of  the  coast,  however,   soon 

*  See  Frontispiece. 


io  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

rendered  the  harbour  impracticable,  and  it  has  been  entirely 
superseded  by  Kingstown  Harbour.  Opposite  Howth  is  the 
charming  rocky  island  known  as  Ireland's  Eye,  and  beyond  it  the 
renowned  Isle  of  Lambay. 

Another  object  of  attraction  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Dublin  is 
Malahide.  This  village  (nine  miles  from  Dublin)  is  much  resorted 
to  for  sea-bathing.  Here  is  Malahide  Castle,  the  fine  baronial 
residence  of  Lord  Talbot  de  Malahide.  Among  the  most  striking 
of  the  several  apartments  is  the  grand  hall,  with  a  vaulted  roof  of 
oak  timber.  The  grounds  are  studded  with  groups  of  fine  trees, 
and  the  sea-view  which  is  obtained  from  the  Castle  is  much  prized 
by  visitors. 

About  three  miles  to  the  west  of  Malahide  is  the  small  but 
ancient  town  of  Swords.  The  combination  of  ruins  at  this  place 
is  very  curious  and  interesting. 

Having  noticed  a  few  of  the  northern  environs  of  Dublin, 
several  interesting  spots  south  of  the  city  will  now  be  visited. 
Among  the  many  beautiful  places  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Dublin 
is  Kingstown.  The  tourist  to  Ireland  via  Holyhead  lands  at 
Kingstown  Quay,  whence  the  journey  to  Dublin,  by  car  or  rail- 
way, is  most  interesting.  The  construction  of  its  splendid  arti- 
ficial harbour — one  of  the  finest  in  the  kingdom — was  the  first 
and  great  step  for  the  prosperity  of  the  town.  The  granite  of 
which  it  is  composed  was  quarried  in  the  adjoining  hill  of  Killiney. 
An  obelisk  commemorates  the  visit  of  George  IV.  to  Ireland  in 
1821,  since  which  period  Kingstown  has  been  gradually  rising 
into  a  most  charming  watering-place.  Previous  to  this  visit  it 
was  known  merely  as  the  fishing  village  of  Dunleary. 

Two   miles  farther   is   the   pleasant    town  of  Dalkey,    with    its 


LEINSTER. 


1 1 


hoary  castellated  ruins.  This  place  was  anciently  of  some  im- 
portance. Dalkey  Island,  long  used  as  a  place  of  popular  resort 
by  the  citizens  of  Dublin,  is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a 
channel  called  Dalkey  Sound,  which  is  about  eight  fathoms  deep. 

Killiney  Hill  is  situated  close  to  Dalkey,  and  is  a  noticeable 
feature  in  the  landscape.  From  the  highest  point  of  the  range, 
a  panorama  of  surpassing  beauty  is  unfolded.  An  enthusiastic 
visitor  says  : — "  The  view  from  the  Hill  of  Killiney  is  one  of  the 
loveliest  in  this  land  of  loveliness.  Seated  among  the  purple  and 
golden  flowers,  you  look  over  its  rocks  and  trees  upon  the  noble 
Bay  of  Dublin,  with  its  waters  '  bickering  in  the  noontide  blaze,' 
and  the  stately  ships  gliding  to  and  fro.  Below  is  Kingstown, 
opposite  the  old  Hill  of  Howth,  and  in  the  centre  the  metropolis 
of  Ireland." 

The  more  prominent  features  in  the  scenery  of  this  part  of  the 
county  have  been  briefly  noticed  ;  the  neighbourhood  would 
supply  abundant  materials  for  a  topographical  volume  :  for  the 
geologist,  botanist,  naturalist,  and  antiquary,  it  has  an  ample  store 
of  attractions.  If  the  tourist  were  to  confine  himself  to  this  county 
alone,  he  might  spend  a  pleasant  and  profitable  holiday. 


WICKLOW. 

"The  Scalp" — Enniskerry — Bray— Glen  of  the  Dargle — Lover's  Leap— Powerscourt — 
Powerscourt  Waterfall — Loughs  Bray — Glen  of  the  Downs — Sugar-loaf  Mountain 
— Delgany — Newtown  Mount  Kennedy — The  Devil's  Glen — Rosanna — Pass  of 
Dunran — Eoundwood — Luggelaw — Lough  Tay — Lough  Dan — Glendalough — Ruins 
of  the  Seven  Churches — St.  Kevin's  Bed — Legend  of  the  Saint  and  Kathleen — 
Glemnalure — "Meeting  of  the  Waters" — Vale  of  Ovoca — Arklow. 

npHE  celebrated  county  of  Wicklow  lias  justly  been  called  the 
"Garden  of  Ireland."  "  There  may  be  seen  lakes  of  Alpine 
beauty  ;  streams  that  wind  through  quiet  dells,  or  roll  their  spark- 
ling waters  down  rugged  precipices  ;  deep  glens  and  sombre 
ravines,  where  the  dark  mountain  shadows  make  twilight  of  the 
summer  noon  ;  mountains  whose  bare  and  craggy  peaks  seem  to 
pierce  the  clouds  ;  romantic  woods  and  picturesque  glades,  with 
fertile,  and  warm,  and  pleasant  valleys."  These  sylvan  beauties 
have  been  considerably  enhanced  in  interest  by  the  fairy  tales  and 
grotesque  legends  connected  with  them,  and  which  Mr.  Grofton 
Croker  has  displayed  so  much  skill  in  collecting.  Not  less  for- 
tunate has  Ireland  been  in  her  lyric  authors,  chief  of  whom  is 
Thomas  Moore.  One  of  his  most  exquisite  poems  is  connected 
with  the  Vale  of  Ovoca,  which  we  are  about  to  visit  ;  and  another 
of  the    "  Melodies "    commemorates  a  romantic    legend   of    Lake 


:        -■'■'■    \ 


■       I     . 


LEINSTER.  1 3 

Glendalougli.  The  nearest  point  of  this  veritable  fairy-land  is 
but  thirteen  miles  from  Dublin  ;  the  leading  objects  of  interest 
in  Wicldow  may  be  seen  in  two  or  three  days. 

By  the  Enniskerry  road  the  county  is  entered  at  "  The  Scalp,"  a 
chasm  in  the  mountain  which  separates  it  from  the  county  of 
Dublin.  The  sides  of  this  singular  defile  are  covered  with  huge 
masses  of  disjointed  granite,  which  look  as  if  a  gust  of  wind  would 
send  them  toppling  down  on  the  traveller.  In  the  winter  season, 
or  after  heavy  rains,  some  of  these  loosened  crags  are  precipitated 
to  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  from  whence  they  are  removed  with 
considerable  labour.  The  road  gradually  slopes  until  the  pretty 
town  of  Enniskerky,  entered  by  a  bridge  over  the  river  Kerry, 
is  seen  picturesquely  situated  in  a  deep  valley  beneath.  This 
town  may  be  considered  the  threshold  of  the  beauties  of  Wicklow. 

The  tourist,  however,  will  probably  enter  the  county  by  the 
Dublin  and  Wicklow  Railway,  alighting  at  Bray,  from  whence  he 
may  make  excursions  to  places  of  interest  in  the  neighbourhood. 
This  town,  always  a  brisk  business  little  place,  has  risen  rapidly 
into  importance  as  a  summer  resort  for  the  citizens  of  Dublin. 
The  opening  of  the  railway  has  doubtless  conferred  great  advan- 
tages on  the  town  ;  as,  from  its  proximity  to  the  Dargle, 
the  Glen  of  the  Downs,  and  the  Devil's  Glen,  it  has  become  an 
important  station  for  tourists.  There  is  a  fine  esplanade, 
about  a  mile  in  length,  extending  to  the  base  of  Bray  Head 
on  the  south,  and  forming  a  delightful  promenade  for  the  in- 
habitants and  the  numerous  visitors  to  this  rising  and  delightful 
watering-place. 

There  are  many  noble  seats  close  to  Bray.  About  a  mile  south 
of  the  town  is  Kilruddery,  the  noble  mansion  of  the  Earl  of  Meath, 


H  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

built  in  the  Elizabethan  style,  and  situated  in  beautiful  grounds 
and  park.  The  demesne  is  finely  located  between  the  Little 
Sugar-loaf  Mountain  and  the  bold,  rugged  heights  of  Bray  Head. 
In  proceeding  from  Bray  to  the  Dargle,  the  tourist  will  meet  with 
Hollybrooke  House,  another  Elizabethan  mansion,  the  residence  of 
Sir  G.  F.  Hodson,  Bart.  This  fine  demesne,  which  is  open  to 
visitors,  is  delightfully  placed  between  the  two  Sugar-loaves.  Bray 
Head  is  situated  some  distance  from  the  town  ;  from  it  a  most 
lovely  view  is  obtained. 

Soon  after  leaving  Bray,  the  Dargle  is  entered  on  foot,  and 
followed  to  Enniskerry  and  Powerscourt.  The  Glen  of  the  Dargle 
is  much  frequented  by  the  citizens  of  Dublin,  and  in  the  summer 
season  it  can  be  rarely  visited  without  meeting  happy  groups  in 
various  parts  of  the  Glen,  which  is  about  a  mile  in  length.  Some 
portions  of  the  ravine  are  of  great  depth  ;  the  hills  on  either  side 
beautifully  clothed  with  native  wildwood  and  graceful  fern.  The 
view  of  the  Glen  from  above  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  exhibiting  a 
rare  combination  of  rugged  rock,  with  foliage  of  every  tint  and 
form.  The  river  which  flows  through  it  is  inconsiderable,  but 
large  enough  to  give  life  and  spirit  to  the  scene  as  it  leaps  from 
rock  to  rock.  About  midway  in  the  Glen,  a  huge  mass  of  rock, 
projecting  at  a  great  height  over  the  river,  has  received  the  name 
of  "  The  Lover's  Leap,"  connected  with  which,  of  course,  there  are 
many  legends.  There  is  a  strong  family  likeness  in  these  tales  ; 
one  will  serve  as  a  sample. 

A  young  lady,  fickle  and  fair,  formed  a  second  attachment 
before,  it  would  seem,  the  first  was  altogether  obliterated.  She 
was  unconscious,  however,  of  the  misery  her  falsehood  had 
effected,   until,  while  singing  a  favourite  song  to  her  new  lover, 


LEINSTER.  1 5 

between  each  verse,  as  she  paused,  she  heard  the  tolling  of 
the  church  bell.  This  smote  so  upon  her  heart  that  she  could 
not  continue,  and  at  last  inquired  who  was  dead  ;  the  reply 
brought  back  the  memory  of  her  first  love  with  far  more  than 
its  earliest  fervour.  That  night  she  spent,  heedless  of  the  cold 
and  rain,  upon  the  grave  of  him  who  had  died  for  her  sake.  It 
was  in  vain  that  her  relatives  entreated  her  to  remain  with  them, 
and  try  to  forget  the  past ;  she  would  return  to  them  in  the 
morning,  but  invariably  resume  her  lone  seat  before  nightfall. 
She  who  had  been  so  false  to  the  living,  was  faithful  to  the  dead  ; 
and  all  the  Aviles  of  the  youth  she  had  so  gaily  sung  to,  failed  to 
win  her  from  her  resolve  to  die  for  him  who  had  died  for  her.  At 
length  her  mind  wandered  ;  with  an  air  of  unearthly  triumph  she 
assured  her  sister  that  her  true  love  had  risen  from  the  grave,  and 
that  she  had  walked  with  him  along  the  headlands  of  the  Glen  ; 
that  he  had  promised  to  meet  her  again,  and  lead  her  to  a  spot 
where  they  should  be  united  to  part  no  more.  This  alarmed 
her  family,  and  they  placed  her  under  mild  restraint ;  but,  with 
the  cunning  of  insanity,  she  eluded  their  vigilance,  and  escaped. 
A  few  minutes  after  her  flight  was  discovered,  her  brother  fol- 
lowed, as  usual,  to  the  churchyard,  at  which  he  arrived  just  in 
time  to  catch  the  last  flutter  of  her  scarf,  as  she  flew  rather  than 
ran  towards  the  Dargle.  He  pursued,  saw  her  pause  for  a  moment 
upon  the  fatal  brink,  and  then  dart  into  the  boiling  abyss.  The 
phantom  created  by  her  imagination  doubtless  led  her  to  her 
death  ;  but  some  will  tell  you  that  every  Midsummer-eve  her 
spirit  soars  along  the  headland  above  the  river,  sometimes  in  the 
similitude  of  a  dove,  floating  like  a  silver  star  through  the  night ; 
at  other  times  in   the  shape  of  a  white  fawn,   dashing  fearlessly 


LEINSTER.  17 

volume  of  descending  water  is  so  very  small  that  the  face  of  the 
rock  is  seen  through  the  thin  veil  of  its  delicate  transparency. 
But  in  winter,  or  when  the  channels  of  the  mountain  have  been 
charged  by  recent  rain,  the  tumultuous  fury  with  which  the 
thundering  cataract  dashes  at  one  wild  bound  down  the  frightful 
depth  of  its  descent,  fills  the  beholder's  mind  with  wonder. 

The  admirable  descriptive  tourist,  Mr.  Lacy,  of  Wexford,  gives 
the  following  particulars,  as  narrated  by  a  car-driver,  regarding 
the  death  of  an  Englishman,  who,  falling  over  the  precipice  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  Waterfall,  was  killed  on  the  spot.  The  unfortunate 
gentleman,  in  company  with  some  friends,  went  to  Ireland,  in  the 
summer  of  1853,  to  see  the  Industrial  Exhibition.  Having 
satisfied  his  curiosity  in  viewing  the  Exhibition,  he  availed  him- 
self of  an  early  opportunity  of  visiting  the  county  of  Wicklow. 
With  this  intention,  accompanied  by  a  friend,  he  arrived  at  Bray, 
and  set  out  from  thence  to  visit  the  Dargle  and  this  Waterfall. 
When  he  arrived  in  its  vicinity,  he  was  so  much  struck  with  its 
singularly  beautiful  features,  more  especially  its  splendid  cascade, 
that,  with  a  degree  of  rashness  for  which  he  paid  the  forfeit  of  his 
life,  he  climbed  up  the  side  of  the  adjoining  mountain,  and  passed 
across  the  intervening  ledge  of  rock,  until  he  arrived  at  the  head 
of  the  Fall.  After  a  close  examination  of  its  interesting  peculiari- 
ties, he  commenced  his  descent  immediately  beside  the  edge  of 
the  falling  torrent,  and  along  the  face  of  the  shelving  rock,  so 
steep  and  smooth  that  even  the  mountain  goat  could  scarcely, 
with  impunity,  make  the  attempt,  In  his  downward  progress  he 
endeavoured  to  support  himself  by  catching  at  the  scanty  weeds 
and  moss  that  grow  on  the  rocky  surface  ;  but  he  found  them 
much  too   frail  to  sustain  him   in  his  perilous   venture,  as  their 

c 


1 8  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

shallow  roots  became  torn  by  his  grasp  from  their  loose  and  infirm 
holds,  and  the  result  was  that  he  fell  over  the  precipice,  and  was 
instantly  killed  on  the  rocks  beneath.  Here  would  seem  to  be 
promising  materials  for  a  "legend,"  when  sufficient  time  has 
elaj^sed  for  the  process  of  evolution  to  be  carried  out. 

Further  to  the  west,  many  objects  of  interest  may  be  seen. 
Loughs  Bray,  Upper  and  Lower,  are  situated  in  the  centre  of  a 
peculiarly  lonely  district.  The  situation  of  the  Lower  Lake,  under 
the  ridge  of  Kippure,  is  very  striking  and  picturesque.  It  is 
walled  in  on  three  sides  by  lofty  and  precipitous  hills,  and  is  open 
on  the  fourth,  at  the  lowest  points  of  which  its  waters  are  poured 
through  a  narrow  opening  into  the  valley  of  Glencree,  forming 
the  Glencree  river.  The  waters  of  Lough  Bray  are  coloured  very 
deeply  by  the  peat  which  covers  the  surrounding  hills,  through 
which  the  water  permeates,  and  the  deep  and  gloomy  tint  is 
increased  by  the  shadow  into  which  the  lake  is  thrown  by  the 
overhanging  mountain  to  the  south  and  west.  The  severe  features 
of  this  mountain  tarn  are  pleasantly  relieved  by  Lough  Bray 
Cottage  and  grounds.  The  contrast  between  the  cultivation  of 
this  garden  and  the  barrenness  around  is  very  striking.  The 
view  from  the  road  a  little  below  the  lake  is  most  grand  :  to  the 
right,  the  mountains  of  Douce  and  War  stand  out  in  bold  relief ; 
to  the  left  are  the  Kippure  Mountains  ;  in  front,  the  valley  of 
Glencree  and  the  demesne  of  Powerscourt  ;  and  further  on,  an 
apparently  illimitable  succession  of  hill  and  valley,  wood  and 
grove,  towns  and  villages,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

From  Bray  the  tourist  generally  proceeds  to  visit  the  Glen  of 
the  Downs — a  beautiful  dell,  resembling  the  Dargle,  though  on  a 
somewhat  smaller  scale — which    lies    a   few  miles  south  of  Bray. 


LEINSTER.  19 

The  Glen  is  about  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length.  For  a  considerable 
distance  it  runs  along  the  foot  of  the  Downs  Mountain.  The  sides 
of  the  defile  rise  to  a  height  of  about  600  feet,  and  are  so  preci- 
pitous as  barely  to  leave  room  for  the  narrow  road  and  the  small 
bright  stream  that  glides  through  the  romantic  vale  with  a  devious 
course,  producing  at  every  step,  a  constant  succession  of  new 
charms.  The  sides  being  clothed  with  a  dense  covering  of  vegeta- 
tion, produce  a  rich  effect.  From  the  Glen  is  obtained  a  view  of 
the  Greater  Sugar-loaf  Mountain.  High  upon  the  wooded  hill 
to  the  left  going  from  Bray  stands  a  banqueting-house  and  a 
romantic  cottage,  so  delightfully  situated  as  to  impart  an  air  of 
poetry  to  the  whole  landscape.  These  tasteful  accessories  to  the 
beauty  of  the  scene  have  been  constructed  by  Mr.  Latouche, 
through  whose  extensive  and  finely-wooded  demesne  of  Bellevue 
this  enchanting  Glen  runs.  From  an  octangular  room  in  the 
banqueting-house,  the  best  view  of  the  surrounding  country  may 
be  obtained  :— the  Glen  far  beneath,  with  the  many-tinted  sides  of 
the  rocky  steeps  by  which  it  is  overhung,  rich  in  native  woods 
and  abundant  plantations,  and  the  sublime  neighbouring  moun- 
tains, amongst  which  the  two  Sugar-loaf  hills  tower  conspi- 
cuously. 

On  clearing  the  Glen  we  reach  the  pretty  hamlet  of  Delgany  ; 
and  about  three  miles  farther  south  is  Newtown  Mount  Kennedy, 
which,  from  its  position  in  the  centre  of  a  tract  of  beautiful 
country,  is  generally  made  a  starting-point  from  whence  the 
tourist  may  visit  the  several  objects  of  interest  in  its  neighbour- 
hood. The  most  remarkable  of  these  is  the  wild  ravine  called  the 
Devil's  Glen — -a  combination  of  rock,  wood,  and  water  sufficiently 
beautiful    to  entitle  it  to   a  better  name.      The  Glen   is  about  a 

c   2 


2o  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

mile  and  a  half  in  length,  and  not  unlike  the  Dargle,  but  more 
rugged  and  imposing  in  its  general  features.  The  river  Vartry 
rushes  through  the  ravine,  and  forms  at  the  head  a  fine  fall 
of  100  feet  in  height,  in  an  unbroken  stream,  which  is  not 
exceeded  in  beauty  by  any  waterfall  in  Ireland.  Midway  in  the 
Glen  a  small  summer-house  has  been  erected  ;  a  footway  that 
ascends  from  this  house  leads  to  a  rock  from  which  a  fine  view  is 
obtained.  The  pathway  runs  beside  the  river  ;  the  stream  flow- 
ing with  many  a  curve,  as  described  in  Tennyson's  "  Brook  : " — 

"  It  winds  about,  and  in  and  out, 
With  here  a  blossom  sailing ; 
And  here  and  there  a  lusty  trout, 
And  here  and  there  a  grayling." 

Among  the  attractions  of  the  Yartry,  and  indeed  of  the  county  of 
Wicklow,  is  good  trout-fishing ;  the  fish,  though  not  "  lusty," 
being  numerous. 

At  a  short  distance  are  the  classic  grounds  of  Kosanna,  where 
Mrs.  Tighe  composed  the  well-known  poem  of  "  Psyche,"  one  of 
the  most  graceful  poems  in  the  language.  In  connection  with  this 
accomplished  lady,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  S.  C.  Hall  found  the  following 
epigram,  in  a  traveller's  album,  in  one  of  the  cottages  in  the 
neighbourhood  : — 

"  Here  in  this  happy  Eden  of  our  earth, 

Dwelling  with  Nature  and  her  holy  train, 
A  mortal  woman  gave  a  spirit  birth, 

And  Psyche  made  immortal  once  again." 

The  romantic  Pass  of  Dunran,  in  this  vicinity,  should  also  be 
visited  by  the  tourist ;  it  is  one  of  the  sublime  gems  which  enrich 
the    eastern    part    of   the   county   of  Wicklow.      The    defile  is  a 


■    ; 


. 


LEINSTER.  2 1 

narrow  pass  between  lofty  hills,  in  the  several  interstices  of  which 
trees  have  been  planted,  where  there  is  apparently  scarcely  soil 
enough  to  cover  their  roots.  As  Dunran  lies  upon  very  high 
ground,  no  water  flows  through  it — -another  variety  in  the  charac- 
teristics of  the  county.  Though  this  Pass  assimilates  with  the 
general  character  of  the  magnificent  scenery  of  the  district,  it  pos- 
sesses individual  attractions  to  amply  compensate  the  labour  of 
.  ascending  the  eminence  from  whence  it  may  be  advantageously 
viewed. 

From  Newtown  Mount  Kennedy,  in  a  westerly  direction,  is  the 
village  of  Roundwood.  The  immediate  neighbourhood  of  Round- 
wood  is  not  remarkable  ;  it  is  chiefly  noted  as  a  resting-place  for 
visitors  to  Glendalough  and  Luggelaw,  for  which  purpose  are  two 
comfortable  country  inns,  where  cars  and  horses  can  be  had.  The 
reservoir  for  the  supply  of  the  new  Dublin  Waterworks  is  situated 
near  the  village.  It  was  constructed  in  1863  by  enclosing  the 
waters  of  the  Vartry. 

When  within  about  two  miles  of  Roundwood,  a  turn  to  the 
right  leads  for  about  three  miles  up  a  long  hill ;  on  either  side  the 
winding  road  is  looked  down  upon  by  the  mountains  that  arise 
above  it — the  Douce  on  the  north,  and  Ballenrush  on  the  south. 
Suddenly  a  most  glorious  and  magnificent  scene  bursts  upon  the 
sight.  The  whole  of  the  beautiful  vale  is  seen  :  Luggelaw,  or  Lough 
Tay,  immediately  below ;  and,  stretching  to  the  east,  the  wild 
grandeur  of  Lough  Dan,  connected  by  the  river  that  runs  between. 
The  beautiful  sheet  of  water  called  Luggelaw,  of  which  we  give 
a  view,  is  encompassed  on  all  sides  by  mountains,  some  of  the 
wildest,  and  others  of  the  richest  and  most  pleasing  character. 
One  side  is  utterly  bare,  the  other  richly  clad  from  the  base  to  the 


22  SCENERV  IN  IRELAND. 

summit  with  trees — fir  and  mountain-ash,  thorn,  oak,  and  elm — 
nourished  to  gigantic  growths.  At  one  end  of  the  lake  is  Lug- 
gelaw  Lodge. 

Lough  Tay  receives  its  supply  of  water  principally  from  the  river 
Annamoe,  which,  just  before  entering  it,  falls  down  a  rock  close 
beside  Luggelaw  Lodge.  The  glen  in  whose  upper  end  this  lake 
is  placed  is  about  ten  miles  in  length,  extending  to  Laragh.  Lough 
Dan  is  situated  two  miles  farther  down  the  glen.  It  is  a  larger 
lake,  and  receives  a  portion  of  its  supply  from  the  Avonmore. 

We  will  now  turn  our  steps  to  the  Vale  of  Glendalough,  or,  as 
its  name  implies,  the  "  Valley  of  the  Two  Lochs."  It  is  about  a 
mile  west  of  the  village  of  Laragh,  which  is  beautifully  situated  at 
a  spot  where  the  vales  of  Laragh,  Clara,  and  Glendalough  meet. 
The  Vale  of  Glendalough  is  about  three  miles  in  length  and  half 
a  mile  in  width  ;  open  at  the  eastern  extremity,  but  enclosed  on 
every  other  side  by  lofty  and  precipitous  mountains.  As  its  name 
indicates,  there  are  two  lakes  in  the  valley,  the  Upper  and  the 
Lower.  These  waters  are  thrown  into  solemn  shade  by  the  lofty 
and  gloomy  mountains  which  overhang  them.  The  glen  is  dark 
and  cheerless  even  in  summer,  and,  being  almost  without  a  single 
tree,  has  a  gloomy  aspect. 

Although  this  spot  offers  fewer  natural  beauties  to  the  observer 
of  nature  than  other  portions  of  the  county  of  Wicklow,  it  is 
possessed  of  more  than  common  interest  to  the  lover  of  Irish 
antiquities.  Here  are  situated  the  far-famed  ruins  of  the  "  Seven 
Churches."  Glendalough  owes  its  origin  to  St.  Kevin,  of  whom 
many  and  curious  tales  are  current,  tradition  taking  up  the  tale 
where  history  fails.  It  appears  that  St.  Kevin,  who  was  de- 
scended from  a  noble  family,  was  born  in  the  year  498.      At  the 


LEINSTER.  2  3 

age  of  seven  years  he  was  placed  under  the  care  and  tuition  of 
Petrocus,  a  learned  Briton,  who  had  spent  many  years  in  Ireland 
for  his  oavii  improvement  in  learning.  He  continued  with  him 
till  510,  when  he  was  sent  to  the  cell  of  three  holy  anchorites, 
with  whom  he  studied  for  a  considerable  time  previously  to  his 
assuming  the  cowl.  On  taking  holy  orders  he  retired  to  the  soli- 
tude of  Glendalough,  then  called  Cluagn  Duach,  where,  among 
other  works,  he  wrote  a  Life  of  St.  Patrick.  He  founded  an  abbey 
there,  which  he  dedicated  to  SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  and  having  pre- 
sided over  it  as  abbot  for  several  years,  he  died  on  the  3rd  of 
June,  618,  at  the  great  age  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  years. 
His  eminent  virtues,  great  sanctity,  and  the  fame  of  his  miracles, 
induced  many  to  imitate  his  example  by  adopting  his  mode  of  life. 
Among  others,  Mochuarog,  a  native  of  Britain,  was  induced  to 
come  over  to  this  country,  and  take  up  his  residence  in  a  cell  on 
the  east  side  of  Glendalough,  where  a  city  soon  sprang  up,  and  a 
seminary  was  founded.  From  this  seat  of  learning  were  sent  forth 
men  eminent  for  their  sanctity  and  learning,  who  were  instru- 
mental in  diffusing  the  light  of  religious  truth  throughout  many 
parts  of  the  western  world. 

Such  is  the  brief  history  of  the  foundation  of  the  ecclesiastical 
city  that  once  adorned  these  mountain  solitudes,  but  of  which 
the  decaying  ruins  are  all  that  now  remain.  Even  the  identity  of 
the  Seven  Churches,  for  which  this  valley  has  been  for  centuries 
celebrated,  and  which  at  the  present  time  confer  a  second  name 
upon  the  spot,  cannot  be  exactly  ascertained  ;  and  of  the  famous 
city  of  Glendalough,  built  by  Mochuarog,  not  a  vestige  remains 
except  a  small  paved  plot  of  ground,  of  a  quadrangular  form, 
which  indicates  the  site  of  the  market-place  of  the  fallen  city.     No 


24  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

traces  of  domestic  buildings  have  been  discovered  ;  but  the  re- 
mains of  a  causeAvay,  extending  from  the  ancient  market-place  to 
Hollywood,  on  the  borders  of  the  county  of  Kildare,  are  still 
visible.  This  laborious  work  of  art  was  about  twelve  feet  in 
width,  and  was  composed  of  blocks  of  roughly-hewn  stone  set 
edgewise,  not  unlike  the  Roman  roads  that  are  frequently  met  with 
in  England. 

Situated  at  the  entrance  of  a  glen  singularly  deep  and  secluded, 
the  principal  ruins  of  Glendalough  form  an  exceedingly  pic- 
turesque group.  As  shown  in  the  engraving,  the  first  object 
that  attracts  attention  is  the  stately  Round  Tower,  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  kingdom.  It  is  about  110  feet  in  height,  sub- 
stantially built,  and  is  composed  of  the  species  of  slate  which 
abounds  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  also  in  part  of  granite.  This 
tower  differs  but  little  from  the  most  perfect  structures  of  the 
same  kind  which  are  to  be  seen  in  many  parts  of  Ireland.  It 
is  open  at  the  top,  having  been  divested  of  the  characteristic 
conical  roof  by  a  storm  in  the  present  century. 

Considerable  discussion  has  arisen  concerning  the  origin  and  use 
of  these  mysterious  structures.  Some  authorities  believe  that 
they  were  temples  of  piety  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  the  sun. 
It  is  thought  that  the  Druid  priest  ascended  to  the  top  every 
morning  to  watch  for  sunrise,  and  on  catching  sight  of  the  first 
rays,  proclaimed  the  fact  aloud.  Others  consider  these  relics  to 
be  nothing  more  than  bell-towers.  Their  proximity  to  cathedrals 
and  churches  would  seem  to  warrant  the  latter  supposition. 

Of  the  religious  edifices  of  Glendalough,  the  Cathedral,  which 
owes  its  origin  to  St.  Kevin,  is  the  most  conspicuous.  The 
ancient  building  was  but    18   feet   in   length  and    30   in  breadth. 


JILEME  &X©Tff©BI. 


KLOW . 


LEINSTER.  25 

The  architecture  was  of  the  rudest  style.  Three  narrow  windows 
in  the  southern  wall  of  the  nave,  and  the  east  window  of  the 
chancel,  are  still  remaining.  The  western  doorway,  composed  of 
blocks  of  granite,  is  also  in  tolerable  preservation.  Adjoining  the 
Cathedral  are  the  vestiges  of  a  small  structure  called  the  Priest's 
House,  which  probably  formed  the  sacristy. 

St.  Kevin's  Kitchen,  a  very  curious  structure,  with  a  stone  roof, 
is  one  of  the  most  perfect  of  the  remains  of  these  ecclesiastical 
edifices.  It  is  22  feet  long  by  15  wide,  and  20  feet  in  height,  the 
walls  being  3  feet  6  inches  thick.  The  remarkable  round  belfry, 
which  springs  from  the  west  end  of  the  church,  is  45  feet  high, 
and  may  easily  be  mistaken  for  a  chimney ;  hence  the  name  given  to 
the  structure.     The  building  is  evidently  of  very  remote  antiquity. 

The  Abbey,  though  now  completely  in  ruins,  is  the  most  extensive 
and  the  most  interesting  of  the  architectural  remains  in  the  valley. 
It  consisted  originally  of  two  buildings,  lying  parallel  to  each  other, 
of  rare  and  beautiful  workmanship,  adorned  with  curious  sculp- 
tures ;  but  of  these  only  detached  fragments  are  now  visible. 
The  remainder  of  the  so-called  Seven  Churches  are  small  buildings 
that  call  for  no  special  mention.  They  are  evidently  very  ancient, 
and  are  most  interesting  specimens  of  early  Irish  architecture. 
Numerous  crosses,  many  of  them  broken,  are  to  be  seen  scattered 
over  the  valley  ;  one  of  these,  formed  of  a  single  block  of  granite, 
is  about  11  feet  in  height,  and  very  richly  wrought, 

Most  of  the  above  remains  are  situated  on  the  Lower  Lake, 
which  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long.  It  is  generally  said  to 
be  that  into  which  St.  Patrick  banished  the  last  of  the  snakes  ; 
this  honour,  however,  is  claimed  by  several  other  lakes  in  the 
island.      Half  a  mile  higher  up  the  valley  is  the  Upper  Lake,  a 


26  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

mile  in  length,  celebrated  as  the  scene  of  Kathleen's  death.  On 
the  south  side  of  the  lake  is  the  famous  St.  Kevin's  Bed,  a  small 
cave  hollowed  in  the  face  of  the  perpendicular  rock,  and  over- 
hancfinsr  at  a  considerable  height  the  dark  waters  of  the  lake. 
The  romantic  tradition  attached  to  this  cave,  even  more  than  its 
singular  situation,  has  given  it  an  extraordinary  celebrity.  Moore, 
in  one  of  his  Irish  melodies,  has  thus  immortalised  the  legend  of 
the  saint  and  Kathleen  : — 

"  By  that  lake  whose  gloomy  shore 
Skylark  never  warbles  o'er,* 
Where  the  cliff  hangs  high  and  steep, 
Young  St.  Kevin  stole  to  sleep : 
'  Here,  at  last,'  he  calmly  said, 
'  Woman  ne'er  shall  find  my  bed.' 
Ah !  the  good  saint  little  knew 
What  that  wily  sex  can  do. 

"  'Twas  from  Kathleen's  eyes  he  flew, 
Eyes  of  most  unholy  blue ! 
She  had  lov'd  him  well  and  long, 
Wish'd  him  hers,  nor  thought  it  wrong. 
Wheresoe'er  the  saint  would  fly, 
Still  he  heard  her  light  foot  nigh  ; 
East  or  west,  where'er  he  turn'd, 
Still  her  eyes  before  him  burn'd. 


*  It  is  believed  that  the  lark  has  never  been  known  to  sing  over  gloomy  Glendalough. 
This  fact  is  variously  accounted  for  by  tradition.  One  story  says,  that  "  when  the  Seven 
Churches  were  building,  it  was  the  skylarks  that  used  every  morning  to  call  the  men  to 
their  work.  They  had  no  watches  in  those  days,  and  the  song  of  the  lark  served  as  a 
signal  that  it  was  time  to  begin  their  labour.  When  the  holy  work  was  at  an  end, 
St.  Kevin  declared  that  no  lark  was  worthy  to  succeed  those  pious  birds  that  had  helped 
in  the  building  of  the  churches."  Another  tradition  relates  that  when  the  holy  places 
were  being  built,  the  workmen  took  an  oath  to  "  begin  with  the  lark  and  he  down  with 
the  lamb ;  "  but  the  larks  rose  so  early  over  the  valley  as  to  cause  the  men  to  rise  long- 
before  they  were  refreshed,  and  in  consequence  many  died  from  over-exertion,  which  so 
touched  the  heart  of  St.  Kevin,  that  he  prayed  that  no  lark  might  ever  sing  over  the 
spot  again,  thus  saving  his  labourers'  lives  and  their  oaths  at  the  same  time.  In  these 
matter-of-fact  days  it  is  suggested  that,  as  larks  prefer  broad  meadows  and  corn-fields 
to  deep  rocky  dells,  the  absence  of  those  birds  at  Glendalough  is  not  remarkable. 


LEINSTER.  27 

"  On  the  bold  cliff's  bosom  cast, 
Tranquil  now  be  sleeps  at  last, 
Dreams  of  heav'n,  nor  thinks  that  e'er 
Woman's  smile  can  haunt  him  here  : 
But  nor  earth  nor  heaven  is  free 
From  her  power,  if  fond  she  be  : 
Even  now,  while  calm  he  sleeps, 
Kathleen  o'er  him  leans  and  weeps. 

"  Fearless  she  had  track' d  his  feet 
To  this  rocky,  wild  retreat ; 
And  when  morning  met  his  view, 
Her  mild  glances  met  it  too. 
Ah !  you  saints  have  cruel  hearts ! 
Sternly  from  his  bed  he  starts, 
And  with  rude,  repulsive  shock, 
Hurls  her  from  the  beetling  rock. 

"  Glendalough !  thy  gloomy  wave 
Soon  was  gentle  Kathleen's  grave ; 
Soon  the  saint  (yet,  ah !  too  late) 
Felt  her  love,  and  niourn'd  her  fate — 
When  he  said,  '  Heav'n  rest  her  soul ! ' 
Round  the  lake  light  music  stole ; 
And  her  ghost  was  seen  to  glide, 
Smiling  o'er  the  fatal  tide  !  " 

To  enter  the  Bed  of  St.  Kevin  is  the  ambition  of  most  tourists, 
and  much  difference  of  opinion  has  been  expressed  regarding  the 
difficulty  of  the  enterprise.  Mr.  Otway  thus  narrates  his  visit  to 
the  Bed  :  "By  this  time  we  had  rowed  under  Kevin's  Bed,  and, 
landing  adjoining  to  it,  ascended  an  inclined  stratum  of  rock  to  a 
sort  of  ledge  or  resting-place,  from  whence  I  and  some  others  pre- 
pared to  enter  the  Bed.  Here  the  guides  make  much  ado  about 
proposing  their  assistance  ;  but  to  any  one  who  has  common  sense 
and  enterprise,  there  is  no  serious  difficulty,  for,  by  the  aid  of 
certain  holes  in  the  rock,  and  points  which  you  can  easily 
grasp,  you  can  turn  into  this  little  artificial  cave,  which,  in  fact,  is 
not  bigger  than  a  small  baker's  oven  ;  and  were  it  not  that  it 


28  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

hangs  some  twenty  feet  perpendicularly  over  the  dark  blue  lake, 
this  cavity,  not  larger  than  many  a  pig-sty  I  have  seen  excavated 
in  the  side  of  a  bank,  could  not  attract  so  many  visitors.  I  and 
two  young  men  who  followed  me,  found  it  a  very  tight  fit  when 
crouched  together  in  it.  At  the  farther  end  there  is  a  sort  of 
pillow  and  peculiar  excavation  made  for  the  saint's  head,  and  the 
whole  of  the  interior  is  tattooed  with  the  initials  of  such  as  have 
adventured  to  come  in." 

Among  the  many  signatures  inscribed  on  the  walls  of  the  Bed 
is  that  of  Sir  Walter  Scott  (W.  S.),  carved  by  his  son,  when  the 
great  novelist  visited  Glendalough  in  1825,  in  company  with  the 
talented  Maria  Edgeworth.  At  this  time  Scott  was  in  declining 
health.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  son-in-law,  Mr.  Lockhart, 
who  has  given  the  following  account  of  the  visit  to  St.  Kevin's 
Bed  : — "  It  is  a  hole  in  the  sheer  surface  of  the  rock,  within  which 
two  or  three  people  might  sit.  The  difficulty  of  getting  into  this 
place  has  been  exaggerated,  as  also  the  danger  ;  for  it  would  only 
be  falling  about  twenty  feet  into  very  deep  water.  Yet  I  never 
was  more  pained  than  when  Sir  Walter  Scott,  in  spite  of  all 
remonstrances,  would  make  his  way  to  it,  crawling  along  the 
precipice.  He  succeeded,  and  got  in !  After  he  was  gone,  Lord 
Plunket,  then  Attorney-General,  told  the  female  guide  he  was  a 
poet.  '  Poet  ! '  said  she  ;  '  the  devil  a  bit  of  him ;  but  an  honour- 
able gentleman.      He  gave  me  half-a-crown.'  " 

A  still  wilder  part  of  this  district  is  Glenmalure,  through  which 
runs  the  military  road  to  the  Vale  of  Ovoca,  by  the  side  of  the 
Avonbeg.  The  character  of  this  glen  is  altogether  different  from 
the  picturesque  beauty  of  the  wooded  Dargle,  or  the  softer  features 
of  the  Glen  of  the  Downs  ;  its  aspect  is  wild  and  impressive,  the 


LEINSTER.  29 

rude  and  barren  rocks  which  rise  abruptly  on  either  hand  giving 
a  savage  grandeur  to  the  scene.  The  head  of  Glenmalure,  where 
the  waters  of  a  small  stream,  flowing  down  the  precipitous  face  of 
a  steep  mountain,  form  the  Ess  Fall,  is  especially  striking,  and  the 
outlet  of  Glenmalure,  proceeding  towards  Rathdrum,  is  extremely 
pleasing.  The  valley  expands,  the  hills  slope  gently  away,  and 
being  wooded  down  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  the  features  of  the 
landscape  are  not  so  wild  and  rugged  as  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
glen. 

A  more  picturesque  route  to  the  Yale  of  Ovoca  is  by  a  road  to 
the  east,  passing  through  the  Yale  of  Clara,  through  which  flows 
the  Avonmore  river.  The  vale,  which  has  little  of  the  wild  or 
striking  in  its  character,  is  very  beautiful. 

At  the  junction  of  Glenmalure  with  the  Yale  of  Ovoca,  the 
most  striking  object  is  Castle  Howard,  perched  on  an  eminence  on 
the  left  of  the  river  Avonmore,  just  above  its  famous  junction  with 
the  Avonbeg.  This  romantic  structure  gains  much  in  effect  from 
its  position  on  an  elevation  of  200  feet  above  the  river.  The 
view  from  the  grounds  embraces  the  surrounding  hills  and  Yale  of 
Ovoca.  Directly  below  Castle  Howard,  the  Avonbeg  and  the 
Avonmore,  stealing  forth  from  their  secluded  glens,  unite  their 
streams,  and  flow  down  the  vale  under  the  name  of  the  Ovoca. 
The  confluence  of  these  rivers  is  generally  termed  "  The  Meeting 
of  the  Waters."  Nature  has  here  scattered  her  charms  with  a 
liberal  hand  ;  waving  woods,  clear  waters,  and  verdant  shores 
'  combine  to  render  the  scene  one  of  surpassing  softness  and  beau- 
tiful tranquillity.  The  attractions  of  the  spot,  however,  in  this 
respect,  are  not  more  conspicuous  than  those  of  other  places  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood.      Its  real  celebrity  lies  in  "the  fact  of 


3o  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

its  being  the  scene  of  one  of  Moore's  most  exquisite  lyrics  ;  his 
verses  have  conferred  an  undying  fame  on  the  Vale  of  Ovoca.  We 
subjoin  the  four  stanzas  consecrated  to  the  "  Meeting  of  the 
Waters,"  and  wish  there  were  twenty-four  : — 

"  There  is  not  in  the  wide  world  a  valley  so  sweet 
As  that  vale  in  whose  bosom  the  bright  waters  meet ; 
Oh !  the  last  rays  of  f eeling  and  lif e  must  depart, 
Ere  the  bloom  of  that  valley  shall  fade  from  my  heart. 

"  Yet,  it  was  not  that  nature  had  shed  o'er  the  scene 
Her  purest  of  crystal  and  brightest  of  green ; 
'Twas  not  the  soft  magic  of  streamlet  or  hill : 
Oh !  no, — it  was  something  more  exquisite  still : 

"  'Twas  that  friends,  the  beloved  of  my  bosom,  were  near, 
Who  made  each  dear  scene  of  enchantment  more  dear, 
And  who  felt  how  the  best  charms  of  nature  improve 
When  we  see  them  reflected  from  looks  that  we  love. 

"  Sweet  Vale  of  Ovoca !  how  calm  could  I  rest 
In  thy  bosom  of  shade,  with  the  friends  I  love  best, 
Where  the  storms  which  we  feel  in  this  cold  world  should  cease, 
And  our  hearts,  like  thy  waters,  be  mingled  in  peace !  " 

The  railroad  follows  the  Ovoca  ;  on  both  sides  the  vale  is  clad 
with  ferns,  mosses,  and  golden  saxifrage.  Occasional  glimpses  of 
stately  mansions  are  obtained,  skilfully  placed  so  as  to  command 
the  best  points  of  view.  Midway  in  the  valley  there  are  copper 
and  sulphur  mines.  Arriving  at  Wooden  Bridge,  a  second 
meeting  of  the  waters  may  be  witnessed.  The  clear  and  rapid 
river  Aughrim,  after  flowing  through  rich  and  verdant  meadows, 
here  falls  into  the  Ovoca.  This  spot  has  been  supposed  by  some 
to  be  the  scene  of  Moore's  poem  :  in  a  letter  to  a  friend  he  says — 
"  The  fact  is,  I  wrote  the  song  at  neither  place  ;  though  I  believe 
the  scene  under  Castle  Howard  (first  meeting)  was  the  one  that 
suggested    it    to    me."      After  this    confluence,  the   Ovoca  glides 


LEINSTER.  31 

through  widely-spreading  plains,  and  between  lofty  and  richly- 
planted  hills,  pursuing  its  course  in  an  easterly  direction  to  Ark- 
low,  passing  on  its  way  the  extensive  and  beautiful  grounds  of 
Shelton  Abbey,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Wicklow. 

The  town  of  Arklow  is  favourably  situated  on  the  south  bank 
of  the  Ovoca,  which  here  expands  considerably,  and  after  passing 
beneath  the  handsome  bridge,  flows  into  the  sea  about  half  a  mile 
from  the  town.  Like  most  of  the  seaports  along  the  eastern 
shore,  it  has  the  disadvantage  of  a  bar.  The  remains  of  an 
ancient  castle  still  exist  here  ;  but  of  its  once  famous  abbey 
there  are  now  no  remains.  Earl  Carysfort's  splendid  mansion, 
Glenart  Castle,  is  situated  about  a  mile  and  a  half  from  the  town. 

About  three  miles  beyond  Arklow  the  railroad  crosses  the 
boundary  of  the  two  counties  and  enters  Wexford,  proceeding  on- 
wards to  Enniscorthy,  and  thence  to  the  county  town  of  Wexford. 

We  must  now  leave  the  lovely  county  of  Wicklow,  passing 
unnoticed  innumerable  objects  of  interest  and  beauty,  to  notice 
which  would  have  far  exceeded  our  space.  We  trust  enough  has 
been  written  to  tempt  some  English  tourists  to  visit  a  district  so 
full  of  rich  and  varied  scenery,  and  one  so  easily  accessible  from 
any  part  of  England. 


PART   IL— MUNSTER, 


CORK,  WATERFORD,  KERRY,  LIMERICK,  AND    CLARE, 


]) 


■■•" 


CORK    AND    WATERFORD. 

County  Cork :  its  Coast  Line— Bantry  Bay— Cork  Harbour— Haulbowline,  Spike,  and 
Rocky  Island—  Queenstown— Black  Eock  Castle— City  of  Cork— Rostellan  Castle- 
Castle  Mary— Cloyne— Blarney  :  its  Castle— The  Blarney  Stone— Youghal— The 
River  Blackwater :  Objects  of  Interest  on  its  Banks— Cappoquin— Lismore  :  its 
Castle  and  Grounds— Mount  Melleray  Abbey. 

'THE  County  of  Cork,  in  the  province  of  Munster,  is  the  largest 
county  in  Ireland.  It  is  admirably  situated  for  commerce, 
possessing  a  coast  line  of  about  one  hundred  miles,  indented  with 
noble  bays  and  harbours.  The  chief  of  these  is  Cork  Harbour, 
not  only  in  connection  with  the  capital  of  the  county,  but  as  being 
one  of  the  most  extensive  and  commodious  in  the  kingdom. 
Eastward  from  Cork  Harbour  is  Ballycotton  Bay  and  Youghal 
Harbour  ;  westward,  we  have  Kinsale  Harbour,  the  lesser  har- 
bours of  Ross  and  Glandore,  and  a  line  of  coast  bold,  various,  and 
rich  in  marine  scenery  of  unequalled  beauty.  Passing  Baltimore 
Bay,  we  reach  the  well-known  island  of  Cape  Clear.  Dunmanus 
Bay  is  the  first  harbour  of  any  note  met  with  after  doubling 
Mizen  Head,  and  finally  the  far-famed  Bantry  Bay.  This  noble- 
spreading  bay  presents  a  scene  of  surpassing  grandeur  and  loveli- 
ness to  the  spectator  sailing  up  from  the  entrance  of  the  harbour 

i)   2 


36  SC ENER Y  IN  IRELAND. 

to  the  town  of  Bantry.  The  length  of  the  Bay  exceeds  twenty 
miles,  in  breadth  it  varies  from  three  to  eight  miles,  and  in  some 
places  it  is  forty  fathoms  in  depth.  The  shores  of  this  vast  sheet 
of  water  are  agreeably  diversified ;  on  the  north  side,  the  moun- 
tain barriers  which  confine  it  seem  to  start  up  precipitously  from 
the  water's  edge,  and  give  a  wild  and  impressive  character  to  the 
scenery.  The  Bay  is  studded  with  islands,  of  which  Bere  Island 
and  Whiddy  are  the  principal.  Around  all,  the  blue,  lofty  chain 
of  Killarney  and  the  Reeks,  Glengariff  and  Gougane  Barra,  with 
other  mountains  of  the  boldest  and  most  fantastic  outlines,  encom- 
pass this  magnificent  picture. 

The  City  of  Cork,  sometimes  called  the  metropolis  of  Munster, 
may  be  reached  seaward  by  steamer  from  London,  calling  at  Ply- 
mouth, once  a  week;  from  Liverpool  and  Bristol  twice  a  week. 
The  harbour  is  one  of  the  most  important  and  beautiful  in  the 
kingdom,  and  is  said  to  be  large  enough  to  contain  the  whole 
navy  of  Great  Britain.  Entered  by  two  bold  headlands,  the  har- 
bour widens  out  into  a  noble  expanse  of  sea,  dotted  with  three 
small  islands — Haulbowline,  Spike,  and  Rocky  Island.  Behind 
these  is  the  Great  Island,  on  the  south  side  of  which  is  Queens- 
town,  originally  called  Cove.  This  town  has  been  long  famed  for 
the  salubrity  of  its  air,  and  is  much  resorted  to  by  invalids.  It 
is  built  on  the  side  of  a  steep  hill,  facing  the  harbour,  from  which 
it  is  distant  about  four  miles.  The  heights  above  the  town  com- 
mand splendid  views  of  the  extensive  anchorage  below. 

The  passage  from  Queenstown  to  Cork  by  the  steamer  is  a 
delightful  trip  of  about  ten  miles,  the  sides  of  the  river  presenting 
continuous  scenes  of  the  richest  beauty.  Monkstown,  a  thriving 
little  place,  is  passed,  with  the  ruins  of  its  ancient  castle  standing 


MVNSTER.  37 

in  a  commanding  situation  on  the  overhanging  hill.  Glenbrook,  a 
pretty  village  with  baths,  and  Passage,  a  little  watering-place  about 
six  miles  from  Cork,  are  the  next  stations.  The  Castle  of  Black 
Rock,  a  conspicuous  and  beautiful  object  as  we  approach  the  city, 
is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  extremity  of  a  peninsula.  It  is  a 
modern  construction,  but  at  a  distance  it  presents  the  appearance 
of  a  formidable  old  castle.  At  night  the  lighthouse  of  Black 
Rock  displays  its  guiding  beacon.  We  have  now  arrived  at  the 
quays  of  Cork,  having  glanced  at  a  few  of  the  beauties  of  this 
"  noble  sea  avenue,"  as  it  has  been  called. 

The  tourist  coming  from  Dublin  would  reach  Cork  by  the  Great 
Southern  and  Western  Railway,  the  distance  being  about  165 
miles,  passing  through  portions  of  five  counties;  if  he  were  so 
disposed,  breaking  the  journey  to  visit  objects  of  interest  on  the 
route. 

Cork  holds  rank  as  the  second  city  of  Ireland,  in  extent, 
population,  and  commercial  importance.  The  river  Lee  flows 
through  it  in  two  channels,  converting  the  principal  portion  of  the 
city  into  an  island.  This  island  is  connected  with  the  shores  on 
either  side  by  six  bridges,  four  spanning  the  stream  on  the  south, 
and  two  on  the  north.  The  city,  though  well  built,  is  not  equal 
to  Dublin  in  the  number  and  beauty  of  its  public  buildings. 

Queen's  College  stands  on  an  eminence  south  of  the  river  Lee. 
The  building  is  of  quadrangular  shape,  its  principal  front  facing 
the  north,  and  displaying  a  remarkably  grand  and  beautiful 
appearance.  In  the  centre  of  this  front  rises  a  fine  embattled 
tower.  East  of  the  town  are  situated  the  lecture  and  examination 
halls  of  the  college,  both  light  and  elegant  structures  of  the 
Pointed  Gothic  style  of  architecture. 


38  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

Shandon  Church  (St.  Ann's)  has  a  good  chime  of  bells,  which 
have  become  celebrated  on  account  of  the  number  of  lyrics  which 
they  have  given  rise  to.  We  quote  the  following  exquisite  poem, 
by  the  Rev.  Francis  Mahony  (Father  Prout),  in  which  he  pays  the 
tribute  of  fond  recollection  to  his  native  city,  and  the  "  magic 
spells"  of  his  childhood  : — 

"  With  deep  affection  and  recollection 
I  often  think  of  the  Shandon  hells, 
Whose  sounds  so  wild  would,  in  days  of  childhood, 

Fling  round  my  cradle  their  magic  spells. 
On  this  I  ponder,  where'er  I  wander, 
And  thus  grow  fonder,  sweet  Cork,  of  thee ! 
With  thy  hells  of  Shandon, 
That  sound  so  grand  on 
The  pleasant  waters  of  the  river  Lee. 

"  I  have  heard  hells  chiming  full  many  a  clime  in, 
Tolling  sublime  in  cathedral  shrine, 
While  at  a  glib  rate  brass  tongues  would  vibrate ; 

But  all  their  music  spoke  nought  to  thine ! 
For  memory,  dwelling  on  each  proud  swelling 
Of  thy  belfry,  knelling  its  bold  notes  free, 
Made  the  bells  of  Shandon 
Sound  far  more  grand  on 
The  pleasant  waters  of  the  river  Lee ! 

"  I  have  heard  bells  tolling  '  old  Adrian's  mole '  in, 
Their  thunder  rolling  from  the  Vatican ; 
With  cymbals  glorious,  singing  uproarious 
In  the  gorgeous  turrets  of  Notre  Dame ; 
But  thy  sounds  were  sweeter  than  the  dome  of  Peter 
Flings  o'er  the  Tiber,  pealing  solemnly. 
Oh !  the  bells  of  Shandon 
Sound  far  more  grand  on 
The  pleasant  waters  of  the  river  Lee  ! 

"  There's  a  bell  in  Moscow,  while  on  tower  and  kiosko, 
In  Saint  Sophia,  the  Turkman  gets, 
And  loud  in  air  calls  men  to  prayer 

From  the  tapering  summits  of  tall  minarets. 


MUNSTER.  3g 

Such  empty  phantom  I  freely  grant  them  ; 
But  there's  an  anthem  more  dear  to  me — 

It's  the  bells  of  Shandon, 

That  sound  so  grand  on 
The  pleasant  waters  of  the  river  Lee !  " 

The  Custom  House  is  a  considerable  building,  situated  at  the 
confluence  of  the  two  branches  of  the  stream,  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  city. 

Among  the  excursions  that  may  be  taken  from  Cork  is  a  plea- 
sant trip  by  steamer  daily  to  Aghada,  on  the  southern  shore  of  the 
harbour,  en  route  for  Cloyne.  On  the  way,  Rostellan  Castle  is 
passed,  once  the  seat  of  the  O'Briens,  Marquises  of  Thomond. 
The  modern  mansion,  beautifully  situated  on  a  wooded  promon- 
tory commanding  a  fine  view  of  the  harbour,  occupies  the  site  of 
an  ancient  castle  of  the  Fitzgeralds.  Passing  the  little  hamlet  of 
Laleen,  we  come  to  the  house  and  demesne  of  Castle  Mary,  in  the 
vicinity  of  which  is  one  of  those  Druidical  remains  known  as 
cromlechs. 

Cloyne,  distant  about  a  mile  from  Castle  Mary,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  a  gentle  eminence  that  rises  from  the  southern  vale  of 
Imokilly.  It  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  bishop  of  the  diocese 
of  that  name,  but  now  it  has  little  besides  its  antiquarian  interest 
to  invite  the  attention  of  the  traveller.  The  ancient  name  of  the 
place  was  "  the  Retreat  of  the  Caves," — the  propriety  of  the 
designation  being  evident  from  the  numerous  caves  of  great  extent 
which  exist  in  the  neighbourhood.  The  pious  St.  Coleman  erected 
a  church  here  in  the  sixth  century.  The  edifice  must  have  been 
a  small,  low  building,  exceedingly  plain  and  simple.  The  portions 
that  remain  consist  of  the  choir,  the  nave,  and  the  north  and 
south    transepts.      The    former    was    reconstructed    in    1776    by 


4o  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

Bishop  Agar,  in  a  style  not  at  all  in  character  with  the  original 
design.  In  the  adjoining  churchyard  are  the  ruins  of  a  small 
building  called  by  some  the  "Fire-house:"  it*  is  evidently  of 
great  antiquity.  At  a  short  distance  from  the  church  stands  a 
remarkable  specimen  of  the  ancient  round  tower. 

The  renowned  Blarney  is  five  miles  from  Cork,  and  may  be 
reached  by  rail  or  car.  The  principal  object  of  curiosity  is  the 
old  Castle,  which  stands  on  a  rock,  at  the  base  of  which  flows  a 
small  river.  A  massive  square  tower  120  feet  "high  is  all  that 
now  remains  of  the  extensive  defences  which  once  covered  an 
enormous  extent  of  ground.  A  portion  of  the  Castle  proper  also 
remains,  the  roof  and  most  of  the  floors  of  which  have,  however, 
disappeared.  One  of  these  apartments,  the  "  Earl's  Chamber,"  is 
a  cheerful  room,  lighted  by  a  large  bay-window,  overlooking  the 
adjacent  country.  This  stronghold  was  erected  in  the  fifteenth  cen- 
tury by  Cormac  McCarthy.  The  grounds  attached  to  the  Castle — the 
celebrated  "  Groves " — have  still  a  charm  about  them,  although 
their  beauty  has  sadly  faded  ;  the  fine  old  timber  has  been  felled, 
and  the  statues  and  rustic  adornments  have  disapj^eared. 

To  the  "  Blarney  Stone,"  however,  the  Castle  owes  more  of  its 
celebrity  than  to  its  historic  recollections.  A  curious  and  inex-' 
plicable  tradition  attributes  to  it  the  magic  power  of  "  endowing 
whoever  kisses  it  with  the  sweet,  persuasive,  wheedling  eloquence 
so  perceptible  in  the  language  of  the  Cork  people,  and  which  is 
generally  termed  blarney."  Some  perplexity  exists  as  to  the 
identity  of  this  wonderful  stone.  Competent  authorities  assert 
that  the  "real"  stone  is  about  twenty  feet  from  the  top  of  the 
lofty  tower,  in  such  a  position  that  no  man  could  possibly  kiss  it, 
unless  he  happened  to  be  a  bird,  or  a  member  of  the  Alpine  Club. 


MUNSTER.  41 

It  had  also  been  the  custom  to  point  out  a  stone  a  few  feet  below 
the  battlements,  which  the  very  daring  only  would  run  the  hazard 
of  saluting.  To  avoid  the  temptation  of  this  dangerous  exploit, 
the  proprietor  had  the  stone  removed  from  the  wall  and  placed  on 
the  top  of  the  tower,  where  it  could  be  kissed  without  risk.  Now 
the  candidate  for  Blarney  honours  will  be  glad  to  know  that 
the  stone  has  been  placed  on  the  lawn,  where  it  is  still  more 
accessible.  The  visitor,  however,  who  ascends  the  narrow  stair- 
case of  the  tower  will  be  amply  rewarded  for  his  exertions  on 
reaching  the  top,  which  commands  a  fine  view  over  lake  and 
meadow,  and  over  "  the  Groves  of  Blarney,"  renowned  in  song. 

It  is  certainly  a  "  curiosity  of  literature  "  that  a  few  nonsense 
verses  should  succeed  in  gaining  a  world-wide  notoriety  for  a  place 
which  otherwise  would  scarcely  have  been  celebrated  beyond  its 
own  vicinity.  "The  Groves  of  Blarney"  was  written  in  1799, 
by  Richard  Alfred  Millikin,  an  attorney  of  Cork.  The  author 
little  anticipated  the  celebrity  his  lines  were  destined  to  acquire  ; 
they  were  intended  to  burlesque  the  wordy  ditties  with  which 
ignorant  pedants  used  to  astonish  the  village  circles.  We  quote  a 
sample  of  this  famous  song  : — 

"  The  groves  of  Blarney,  they  look  so  charming, 

Down  by  the  purlings  of  sweet  silent  brooks ; 
All  graced  by  posies  that  spontaneous  grow  there, 

And  planted  in  order  in  the  rocky  nooks. 
'Tis  there  the  daisy  and  sweet  carnation, 

The  blooming  pink  and  rose  so  fair, 
The  daffodowndilly,  besides  the  lily, 

Flowers  that  scent  the  sweet  fragrant  air. 

"There's  statues  gracing  this  noble  mansion, 
All  heathen  gods  and  goddesses  so  fair : 
Bold  Neptune,  Plutarch,  and  Nicodamus, 
All  standing  in  the  open  ah1. 


42  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

So  now  to  finish  this  bold  narration, 

That  my  poor  genii  could  not  entwine ; 
But  were  I  Homer  or  Nebuchadnezzar, 

In  every  feature  I'd  make  it  shine." 

The  following  lines,  referring  to  the  Blarney  Stone,  were  added 
by  Father  Prout : — 

"  There  is  a  boat  on  the  lake  to  float  on, 

And  lots  of  beauties  which  I  can't  entwine  ; 
But  were  I  a  preacher  or  a  classic  teacher, 

In  every  feature  I'd  make  'em  shine. 
There  is  a  stone  there  that  whoever  kisses, 

Oh,  he  never  misses  to  grow  eloquent ; 
In  he  may  clamber  to  a  lady's  chamber, 

Or  become  a  member  of  parliament. 

"  A  clever  spouter  he'll  soon  turn  out,  or 
An  out-and-outer  '  to  be  let  alone ; ' 
Don't  hope  to  hinder  him  or  to  bewilder  him — 
Sure  he's  a  pilgrim  from  the  Blarney  Stone." 

Blarney  Lake,  a  short  distance  from  the  Castle,  is  a  pretty  sheet 
of  water,  connected  with  a  tradition  of  a  herd  of  white  cows  that 
at  certain  seasons  rise  out  of  the  lake  to  graze  on  the  pastures  on 
its  banks.  A  very  fine  cromlech  stands  within  the  grounds  of 
the  Castle,  and  a  number  of  pillar-stones  may  be  seen  in  the 
neighbourhood. 

The  visitor  to  Cork  should  not  miss  the  excursion  by  rail  to 
Youghal,  from  whence  a  steamer  proceeds  up  the  Blackwater  to 
Cappoquin,  one  of  the  most  delightful  trips  in  the  south  of 
Ireland.  The  ancient  town  of  Youghal  is  situated  on  the  western 
bank  of  the  Blackwater,  the  mouth  of  which  forms  the  harbour. 
Although  a  fine  and  well-sheltered  bay,  it  is  rendered  inaccessible 
to  large  vessels  by  a  bar.  The  strand  in  the  neighbourhood,  con- 
sisting of   fine  white  sand,   affords    excellent  accommodation  for 


MUNSTER.  43 

bathing.  Some  interesting  ecclesiastical  ruins  are  seen  in  the 
town,  among  them  the  old  church  of  Youghal,  portions  of  which 
are  still  used  as  a  place  of  worship,  having  been  restored  from  a 
state  of  ruin.  The  church  contains  many  interesting  tombs.  On 
a  hill  above  the  town  is  pointed  out  the  spot  where  the  first 
potato,  brought  from  America  by  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  was  cul- 
tivated. His  house,  erected  by  him  in  1586,  still  stands  in  the 
town,  near  the  church.  It  is  a  fine  specimen  of  the  Elizabethan 
style  of  architecture,  in  good  preservation,  possessing  some  splendid 
oak  carving.  The  house  is  now  called  Myrtle  Grove,  from  the 
fine  specimens  of  that  shrub  which  grow  in  the  garden. 

Starting  from  Youghal  Quay,  the  steamer  soon  arrives  at  the 
wooden  bridge,  a  striking  and  important  structure,  where  the 
Blackwater  river  proper  is  entered.  Rhincrew  Abbey  next  arrests 
the  tourist's  attention  ;  it  is  situated  on  a  bold  promontory  above 
the  river,  and,  notwithstanding  its  present  ruined  state,  is  a  very 
interesting  feature.  This  abbey  originally  belonged  to  the  Knights 
Ten^lars.  The  square  embattled  tower  is  the  remains  of  Temple 
Michael,  said  to  have  been  built  by  the  Templars  to  guard  the 
channel  at  this  point.  Passing  up  the  river,  the  fine  mansion  and 
ruin  of  Ballinatray  present  themselves.  This  interesting  and 
beautiful  spot  is  a  popular  place  of  resort  in  the  summer  season. 
We  next  arrive  at  the  ruins  of  old  Strancally  Castle,  which  are 
almost  confounded  with  the  moss-grown  rocks  on  which  they 
stand,  directly  over  the  river.  New  Strancally  Castle,  taking  its 
name  from  the  old  castle  just  mentioned,  stands  at  a  short  distance 
from  its  predecessor.  It  is  a  richly  ornamented  structure,  in  the 
florid  Gothic  style  of  architecture,  displaying  great  variety  in  its 
numerous  details.      The  building  is  surrounded  with  noble  trees, 


44  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

through  which  its  architectural  features  are  seen  to  great  advan- 
tage. Not  far  from  this  mansion  the  river  Bride  falls  into  the 
Blackwater. 

Two  miles  further  is  Dromana,  the  fine  seat  of  Lord  Stuart  de 
Decies.  It  is  charmingly  situated  on  the  verge  of  an  eminence 
that  rises  precipitously  from  the  river.  From  the  grounds  of  the 
castle,  which  are  freely  open  to  visitors,  fine  views  of  the  moun- 
tains and  the  river  are  obtained.  Higher  up,  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  river,  are  the  ancient  Castle  of  Tourin  and  the  modern 
mansion  of  the  same  name.  On  through  a  succession  of  interesting 
views  and  we  arrive  at  Cappoquin,  and  the  end  of  the  steamer's 
journey. 

Lismore  is  rather  less  than  four  miles  from  Cappoquin.  _  The 
ride,  is  very  charming  on  either  side  of  the  river,  the  banks  being 
enriched  with  the  most  luxuriant  plantations.  The  town  is  well 
built  and  remarkably  clean  ;  its  chief  attraction,  however,  is  the 
Castle  of  the  Duke  of  Devonshire! 

Lismoke  Castle  was  founded  on  the  ruins  of  an  abbey  erected 
by  John,  Earl  of  Moreton,  and  Lord  of  Ireland.  After  being 
destroyed  by  the  Irish,  and  undergoing  various  other  fortunes,  it 
was  rebuilt,  and  became  an  episcopal  residence  ;  till  at  length,  in 
1589,  it  passed  with  the  rest  of  the  manor  to  Sir  Walter  Raleigh, 
and  was  afterwards  sold  by  him  to  Sir  Richard  Boyle,  afterwards 
Earl  of  Cork.  In  1626,  the  famous  Robert  Boyle  was  born  within 
its  walls.  In  the  rebellion  of  1641  it  withstood  successfully  a 
siege  by  five  thousand  Irish,  under  Sir  Richard  Belling.  Two 
years  after,  the  castle  was  attacked  again  by  a  still  greater  force, 
and  again  remained  triumphant;  but  in  1645  it  was  at  length 
taken  by  Lord  Castlehaven.      From  the  Boyle  family  Lismore  passed 


& 


uufm 


*«< 


MUNSTER.  45 

into  that  of  Cavendish  in  1748,  by  the  marriage  of  Lady  Charlotte 
Boyle,  daughter  of  the  fourth  Earl  of  Cork,  to  the  fourth  Duke  of 
Devonshire. 

The  present  building  is  a  noble  pile  ;  its  position,  overhanging 
the  river,  is  very  commanding.  A  fine  view  of  the  Castle  can  be 
obtained  from  the  bridge  at  its  foot,  as  the  grand  portions  of  it 
display  their  rich  facades  to  this  point  of  view.  The  main  struc- 
ture is  of  great  antiquity,  but  much  of  it  has  been  restored.  "  At 
the  eastern  angle  of  the  river  face,  the  tower  of  King  James  rises, 
and  to  the  rear,  towards  the  town,  that  which  is  called  King 
John's.  The  former  derives  its  name  from  having  been,  the 
resting-place  of  James  II.  during  the  war  of  the  Revolution  ;  the 
latter,  as  the  scene  of  the  first  British  Parliament  held  in  Ireland 
under  the  presidency  of  King  John."  Among  the  extensive 
additions  contemplated  by  the  late  Duke  is  the  Carlisle  Tower, 
named  after  the  late  Lord  Lieutenant  of  Ireland,  by  whom  the 
foundation-stone  was  laid.  Had  these  works  been  carried  out,  they 
would  have  entitled  Lismore  Castle  to  rank  amongst  the  noblest 
residences  in  Great  Britain. 

Among  the  state  apartments  of  the  Castle  are  the  dining-room, 
which  is  of  ample  dimensions,  richly  decorated  and  splendidly 
furnished  ;  the  Duke's  private  room  and  the  grand  drawing-room, 
equally  well  furnished,  and  containing  pictures  of  rare  merit. 
From  the  windows  of  these  apartments  views  of  the  most  extensive 
and  charming  description  are  obtained.  The  billiard-room  is  a 
large  and  lofty  saloon,  lighted  by  a  dome  in  the  daytime,  and  by 
an  elegant  chandelier  at  night.  The  ball-room  also  is  a  magnificent 
chamber,  richly  embellished.  The  decorations  of  the  several  rooms 
are  of  the  most  gorgeous  and  beautiful  description. 


46  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

The  pleasure-grounds  and  gardens  are  laid  out  with  exquisite 
taste.  One  of  the  attractions  is  the  terrace,  the  favourite  walk  of 
the  late  Duke  ;  from  this  delightful  promenade  admirable  views 
are  obtained.  A  flight  of  steps — still  called  Sir  Walter  Raleigh's 
— lead  from  the  terrace.  The  gardens  contain  an  immense  variety 
of  rare  and  valued  plants.  The  Old  Yew  Walk,  of  more  than  a 
hundred  years'  standing,  is  a  great  curiosity  ;  the  fine  old  trees 
growing  into  each  other  form  a  continuous  natural  arch  of  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length.  The  Castle  and  the  grounds  are 
liberally  open  for  the  inspection  of  visitors. 

Not  far  from  Lismore  is  the  celebrated  Abbey  of  Mount  Melleray ; 
it  is  situated  on  the  sloping  side  of  a  hilly  range  beneath  the 
Lismore  and  CappoqUin  mountains.  This  singular  community 
was  originally  formed  by  some  French  Cistercian  monks,  driven 
from  France  by  the  Revolution  of  1830  :  the  members  are  now 
nearly  all  of  English  or  Irish  birth.  On  their  arrival  in  Ireland 
their  number  amounted  to  about  fifty.  The  ground  upon  which 
the  abbey  is  built  was  then  a  stony  waste,  of  which  the  proprietor 
granted  a  lease  at  a  nominal  rent.  It  has  been  brought  into  cul- 
tivation by  the  labour  of  their  hands  ;  and  it  is  really  surprising 
to  behold  what  their  patience  and  toil  have  achieved  on  soil  so 
unpromising.  The  monastery,  the  church,  the  school,  the  work- 
shops and  various  offices,  are  all  the  work  of  the  brethren  of  the 
Order,  who  number  among  them  tradesmen  of  every  description. 

"  On  the  occasion  of  my  visit,"  says  Mr.  Lacy,  "  I  was  so  far 
favoured  as  to  be  accompanied  by  one  of  the  brotherhood  through 
the  whole  of  this  large  and  interesting  establishment.  I  was  first 
shown  through  the  beautiful  church,  and  was  forcibly  struck  with 
the  style   and  grandeur   of  the    magnificent  altar,   the  entire  of 


MUNSTER.  47 

which,  including  its  chaste  and  various  ornaments,  is  also  the 
work  of  the  members  of  the  brotherhood.  This  elegant  church  is 
appropriated  exclusively  to  the  use  of  the  members  of  the  com- 
munity. I  was  next  shown  through  the  outer  chapel,  which  is 
divided  by  a  partition  from  the  former  ;  it  is  a  commodious  place 
of  worship,  and  is  open  to  the  people  of  the  neighbouring  district. 
We  next  visited  the  chapter- room,  or  lecture-hall,  a  fine  oblong- 
chamber,  at  the  upper  end  of  which  is  situated  the  abbot's  throne, 
beneath  a  splendid  representation  of  our  Redeemer's  crucifixion. 
Beside  the  throne  are  the  seats  of  the  prior  and  sub-prior,  and 
along  the  sides  of  the  hall  are  stalls  for  the  brethren  of  the  Order, 
according  to  seniority.  The  dining-hall  is  a  chamber  of  the  same 
form  and  dimensions  as  that  last  mentioned,  with  a  seat  for  the 
abbot  beneath  a  crucifix,  and  beside  it,  as  in  the  former  instance, 
seats  for  the  prior  and  sub-prior ;  the  brethren  also  take  their 
places  according  to  seniority.  Flesh  meat  is  never  used  in  this 
establishment,  the  community  living  upon  vegetables  and  milk, 
The  brethren  bake  their  own  bread,  cook  their  own  food,  and 
make  their  own  clothing  and  all  other  necessaries.  In  the  dormi- 
tory, a  large  oblong  room,  the  sleeping  places  are  divided  from 
each  other,  and  a  plain  curtain  drawn  across  the  entrance  to  each 
compartment,  over  which  the  name  of  the  brother  to  whom  it 
belongs  is  labelled.  The  articles  of  bedding  were  plain,  but  per- 
fectly clean,  and,  according  to  my  notion,  scanty.  Accommodation 
is  afforded  here  for  some  seventy  or  eighty  brothers,  but  several  of 
the  compartments  were  unfurnished,  as  the  number  of  the  com- 
munity at  this  time  did  not  exceed  between  fifty  and  sixty  indi- 
viduals. I  next  proceeded,  attended  by  the  kind  brother,  to  view 
the  cemetery,  noticing  the  tomb  of  the  first  abbot,  Dr.  Ryan,  and 


48  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

also  the  graves  of  several  of  the  brethren  of  the  Order  ;  a  plain 
cross  stood  at  the  head  of  each  grave.  The  building  forms  a 
spacious  quadrangle,  around  which  run  the  cloisters,  A  rigid 
silence  is  observed  in  all  the  principal  portions  of  the  abbey,  and 
the  ominous  and  awe-inspiring  word  is  written  on  several  parts  of 
the  interior.  This  ordinance  is  punctually  observed  in  the  church, 
the  chapter-room,  dining-hall,  and  dormitory  ;  in  other  parts  of 
the  institution  an  exception  to  this  severe  rule  is  allowed.  The 
habits  of  the  lay  brothers  are  brown,  with  a  cowl,  which  they 
raise  when  they  enter  the  church  and  other  parts  of  the  abbey  ; 
the  clerics  of  the  Order  wear  white  habits.  My  final  visit  was  to 
the  school,  which  is  situated  about  one  hundred  yards  from  the 
abbey." 


I 

_     **•*■ 

'^^0^m^W^S^^^^^^^lfWMW^ 

sun  S!J'1^ 
JffipHlll 

■Mllli)iryilj|j|l)j||||||ll|)|jlLlllUl 

■ail 

pi 

OP 

HI 

fit: 

KERRY. 

Routes  to  Killarney — Bantry — Glengariff — Kenmare — Lough  Allua — Gougane  Barra — 
Pass  of  Keimaneigh — Killarney :  General  Description  of  the  Lakes — The  Upper 
Lake — The  Long  Range — The  Middle  Lake — Tore  Mountain — Muckross  Abbey — 
The  Lower  Lake— Aghadoe — Gap  of  Dunloe — Black  Valley — Macgillicuddy's  Reeks 
— Mangerton  Mountain — Glen  of  the  Horse — Lough  Guitane. 

~I7"ILLARNEY  may  be  reached  direct  by  rail  from  Dublin,  the  dis- 
tance being  about  186  miles  ;  or  direct  from  Cork,  via  Mallow 
Junction,  distance  6 1  miles.  To  the  lovers  of  picturesque  scenery 
there  are  also  two  charming  routes  to  Killarney  from  Cork, 
embracing  some  of  the  most  beautiful  mountain  districts  of  the 
south-west  of  Ireland.  The  first  route  is  by  rail  to  Dunmanway  ; 
thence  by  coach  and  car  to  Bantry,  Glengariff,  and  Kenmare. 
Bantry  is  a  picturesque  little  town,  finely  situated  at  the  head  of 
its  unrivalled  bay,  of  which  fine  views  are  obtained  from  the 
eminences  around.  A  mountain  road  leads  to  Glengariff.  This 
lovely  glen  is  about  three  miles  in  length,  and  about  a  quarter  of 
a  mile  in  width ;  the  precipitous  rocks  which  enclose  it  are  clothed 
with  yew,  holly,  and  arbutus,  which  flourish  luxuriantly,  and  a 
mountain  stream  forces  its  way  through  this  Alpine  valley.  A 
fine  view  of  the  glen  is  obtained  from  the  Berehaven  road,  near 

E 


5o  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

Cromwell's  Bridge,  from  whence  the  spectator  beholds  the  dark 
woods,  hills,  and  rushing  streams  of  Glengariff,  the  lofty  moun- 
tains of  Berehaven,  the  bold  shores  of  Bantry  Bay,  and,  afar  off, 
the  ocean.  The  road  from  Glengariff  to  Kenmare  lies  through  a 
mountain  district,  affording  grand  views  of  the  valleys  beneath. 
Near  the  summit  of  this  mountain  ridge  the  road  passes  through  a 
tunnel,  600  feet  long,  cut  in  the  rock.  Within  this  tunnel  a 
fissure  marks  the  boundary  between  the  counties  of  Cork  and 
Kerry.  From  here  to  Kenmare  the  road  is  less  wild.  This 
is  a  neat  and  pleasant  little  town,  entered  by  a  suspension  bridge 
over  the  river.  Between  Kenmare  and  Killarney  the  aspect  of 
the  country  begins  to  mellow  into  the  softer  traits  of  the  Lake 
scenery  ;  the  hills  are  partially  wooded,  and  the  crags  which  over- 
hang the  road  are  tufted  with  rich  verdure.  On  reaching  the 
summit  of  the  road  the  mountains  .of  Killarney  come  into  view, 
and  shortly  after  the  tourist  beholds  the  far-famed  Lakes. 

A  second  picturesque  route  to  Killarney  is  by  rail  from  Cork  to 
Macroom,  thence  by  road  to  Inchigeelagh,  diverging  westward  to 
Lough  Allua  and  Gougane  Barra,  through  the  Pass  of  Keimaneigh 
to  Bantry,  thence  by  Glengariff  and  Kenmare,  as  before.  Lough 
Allua  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  about  three  miles  in  length, 
and  in  some  places  nearly  a  mile  in  breadth.  It  is  dotted  with 
numerous  pretty  islands.  After  passing  this  lake,  the  river  con- 
tracts itself  into  a  narrow  stream,  and  the  traveller  approaches, 
through  narrow  defiles  and  deep  glens,  the  sequestered  lake  of 
Gougane  Barra.  The  lake,  which  is  situated  in  a  deep  mountain 
recess,  is  enclosed  on  every  side  except  the  east  with  steep  and  rocky 
hills,  down  whose  sides  several  mountain  streams  pour  their  limpid 
waters.      In  the  centre  of  the  lake  is  a  small  island,  on  which  was 


MUNSTER.  5 1 

the  dwelling  of  St.  Fionn  Bar.  The  ruins  of  the  hermitage  may 
still  he  seen.  A  native  poet,  named  Callanan,  has  happily  de- 
scribed, in  verse,  the  features  of  this  celebrated  island  ;  we  quote 
the  opening  lines  : — 

"  There  is  a  green  island  in  low  Gougane  Barra, 
Where  Allua  of  song  rushes  forth  as  an  arrow ; 
In  deep-vallied  Desmond,  a  thousand  wild  fountains 
Come  down  to  that  lake,  from  their  home  in  the  mountains. 
There  grows  the  wild  ash,  and  a  time-stricken  willow 
Looks  chidingly  down  on  the  mirth  of  the  billow, 
As  like  some  gay  child,  that  sad  monitor  scorning, 
It  lightly  laughs  back  to  the  laugh  of  the  morning. 
And  its  zone  of  dark  hills — oh !  to  see  them  all  bright' ning 
When  the  tempest  flings  out  its  red  banner  of  lightning ; 
And  the  waters  rush  down  'mid  the  thunder's  deep  rattle, 
Like  the  clans  from  the  hills,  at  the  voice  of  the  battle ; 
And  brightly  the  fire-crested  billows  are  gleaming, 
And  wildly  from  Maolagh  the  eagles  are  screaming. 
Oh !  where  is  the  dwelling,  in  valley  or  highland, 
So  meet  for  a  bard  as  this  lone  little  island?" 

Returning  to  the  main  road,  the  Pass  of  Keimaneigh  is  reached, 
which  for  picturesque  and  gloomy  grandeur  is  scarcely  surpassed 
even  in  this  region  of  romantic  glens  and  mountain  defiles. 
Through  this  Pass  runs  the  road  to  Bantry,  whence  the  tourist  will 
proceed  by  way  of  Glengariff  and  Kenmare  to  Killarney,  as  already 
traced. 

By  approaching  the  Lakes  from  the  Kenmare  road,  a  bird's-eye 
view  of  this  renowned  district  is  obtained.  From  this  elevation 
the  three  bodies  of  water  appear  spread  out  below  the  eye,  with 
their  islands  and  mountain  shores,  in  a  landscape  of  which  no 
description  can  convey  an  adequate  idea.  Before  noticing  the  special 
objects  of  interest  connected  with  the  Lakes,  it  will  be  useful  to 
give  Mr.  Lacy's  general  description  of  these  celebrated  waters  : — 

"  The  Upper  Lake,  the  Middle  or   Tore  Lake,  and  the  Lower 

e  2 


52  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

Lake,  communicate  with  each  other,  and  were  early  known  under 
the  general  designation  of  Lake  Lene.  Indeed,  the  three  lakes  are 
in  reality  one  vast  sheet  of  water,  divided  only  by  islands  and 
narrow  channels,  the  passage  between  the  Lower  and  Middle  Lakes 
being  so  circumscribed  as  not  to  exceed  a  small  bridge's  length. 
These  lakes  are  in  the  centre  of  a  range  of  lofty  mountains — one 
of  which  is  among  the  most  elevated  hills  in  Ireland — which  are 
generally  clothed  or  dotted  with  evergreen  shrubs  and  stately 
forest  trees  of  magnificent  growth,  from  the  base  almost  to  the 
summit.  The  Upper  Lake  lies  quite  embosomed  in  the  moun- 
tains ;  the  other  two,  being  at  the  exterior  base  of  the  chain  of 
hills,  are  bounded  on  one  side  alone  by  mountains.  In  the 
opposite  direction,  which  may  be  called  the  east  and  north,  they 
unfold  themselves  to  an  open  and  cultivated  country,  whose  surface 
is  enriched  and  diversified  by  innumerable  undulations,  which 
occasionally  swell  into  finely  rounded  hills.  The  Middle  and 
Lower  Lakes  are  nearly  upon  the  same  level,  and  lie  contiguous 
to  each  other,  being  separated  merely  by  the  narrow  peninsula, 
Muckross,  and  the  small  islands  known  as  Brickeen  and  Dinis, 
between  which  there  are  channels  for  boats.  From  the  Middle 
Lake  the  Upper  stands  about  three  miles  distant,  and  is  situated 
at  the  head  of  a  navigable  river,  which  flows  through  a  romantic 
valley  or  defile  that  bears  the  name  of  the  Long  Range.  Near 
the  termination  of  its  course  this  river  divides  into  tAvo  branches, 
one  of  which  flows  in  peaceful  tranquillity  towards  the  west,  and 
falls  into  the  Bay  of  Glena,  in  the  Lower  Lake  ;  while  the  other, 
forcing  its  way  through  a  rocky  channel  in  a  north-easterly 
direction,  issues  with  considerable  impetuosity  into  the  Middle 
Lake,  under  the  rich  woods  of  Dinis  Island.      The  river  separates 


MUNSTER.  S3 

immediately  after  passing  the  Old  Weir  Bridge  ;  and  the  beautiful 
place  where  the  waters  of  the  three  lakes  mingle  is  called  '  The 
Meeting  of  the  Waters.'  These  celebrated  lakes  are  considered  to 
be  about  thirty  miles  in  circumference  ;  and  the  distance  between 
the  two  extreme  points — the  head  of  the  Upper  Lake  and  the  river 
Laune,  which  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  Lower  Lake — is  about 
eleven  miles.  The  Laune  forms  the  outlet  for  the  waters  of  the 
lakes,  by  which  they  are  conveyed  to  the  harbour  of  Castlemaine, 
where  they  fall  into  the  great  Atlantic.  The  Long  Range,  as  a 
matter  of  course,  is  included  in  the  above  estimated  distance  of 
eleven  miles  ;  while  the  greatest  width  does  not  exceed  two  and 
a  half  miles.  In  the  Upper  Lake  there  are  several  islands,  but 
none  of  large  size  ;  in  the  Middle  Lake  there  are  only  two,  which 
are  also  of  small  size  ;  while  the  Lower  Lake  contains  upwards  of 
thirty,  including  islands,  islets,  and  island  rocks." 

The  tour  of  the  Lakes  is  usually  commenced  at  Lord  Brandon's 
cottage,  which  is  situated  close  to  the  Upper  Lake.  McCarthy 
More's  Island  is  the  first  object  pointed  out  by  the  boatmen.  The 
origin  of  the  name  is  uncertain.  It  is  matter  of  history  that  the 
county  Kerry  at  ODe  period  was  owned  by  two  chiefs,  0' Sullivan 
and  McCarthy  :  one  of  the  McCarthys  may  have  dwelt  or  found 
refuge  on  the  island. 

A  cluster  of  islands  is  next  met  with,  of  which  Ronan's  Island 
is  the  largest.  This  island  is  said  to  have  derived  its  name  from 
an  Englishman,  who,  being  attracted  by  its  romantic  situation, 
made  it  his  home,  and  continued  to  dwell  upon  it  for  many  years 
in  complete  seclusion,  avoiding  all  society,  and  seldom  leaving  it 
except  to  shoot  or  fish.  Eagle  Island  and  Duck  and  Stag  Islands 
are  others  of  the  same  group. 


54  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

Arbutus  Island  is  one  of  the  largest  on  the  Upper  Lake.  It  is 
completely  covered  with  the  beautiful  plant  whose  name  it  bears. 
All  the  islands  have  a  share  of  this  "  myrtle  of  Killarney,"  and 
the  roadsides  in  the  vicinity  are  plentifully  adorned  with  it. 
Juniper  Island  is  also  pointed  out,  which,  as  may  be  supposed, 
derives  its  appellation  from  the  trees  of  that  name  which  so 
plentifully  grow  upon  it. 

Though  the  smallest  of  the  three,  the  Upper  Lake  is  remarkable 
for  its  wild  magnificence  and  fine  mountain  girdle.  Perfectly  dis- 
tinct in  the  character  of  its  romantic  scenery  from  that  of  the 
Tore  and  Lower  Lake,  it  combines  many  of  the  softer  beauties 
of  wood  and  water  with  all  the  stern  sublimity  of  mountain 
scenery.  Embosomed  amidst  majestic  mountains,  whose  fan- 
tastical summits  pierce  the  sky,  the  lake  appears  to  be  completely 
landlocked.  "  At  various  points  bright  mountain  streams  may  be 
seen  pouring  down  the  glens  and  deep  ravines — now  leaping  from 
rock  to  rock,  and  flashing,  like  living  silver,  in  the  broad  sunlight ; 
now  glittering  in  the  shade  of  the  dark  foliage,  till  they  are  lost 
in  the  shining  waters  of  the  broad  lake.  A  number  of  islets  of 
the  most  picturesque  forms  are  also  scattered  over  its  surface  : 
some  of  them  are  mere  masses  of  naked  rocks  ;  others,  on  the 
contrary,  are  redundant  in  vegetation,  producing  trees,  shrubs,  and 
plants  in  the  wildest  profusion  ;  amongst  which  the  arbutus,  with 
its  tempting  berries,  and  the  mountain-ash,  with  its  scarlet  clusters 
glowing  through  the  dark  shining  foliage  of  the  holly-tree,  are 
prominently  conspicuous  in  the  autumn  season.  In  several 
instances  the  action  of  the  water  has  worn  away  the  lower  parts 
of  the  rocks  composing  these  islands,  giving  to  the  overhanging 
portions  the  resemblance  of  masses  of  giant  architecture,  thrown 


MUNSTER.  55 

confusedly  together  by  some  convulsion  of  nature.  In  other 
places  the  rocks  are  completely  perforated,  forming  natural  arches, 
sufficiently  large  for  boats  to  pass  through." 

On  the  eastern  side  of  this  lake  is  Derrycunnihy  Cascade,  so 
much  admired  by  her  Majesty  the  Queen  when  she  paid  her  visit 
to  the  Lakes  in  the  autumn  of  1861. 

At  the  eastern  end  the  lake  narrows  into  a  lovely  creek  or  inlet, 
the  entrance  to  which  is  between  two  lofty  crags.  Within  these 
lies  a  spacious  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  hemmed  in  by  rugged 
precipitous  rocks  and  thick  overhanging  trees.  This  charming 
retreat  has  received  from  the  boatmen  the  unexpressive  name  of 
Newfoundland.  To  the  north  of  this  bay  begins  the  Long  Kange, 
— a  river  about  three  miles  long,  connecting  the  Upper  with  the 
Middle  Lake.  Throughout  this  channel  every  rock  or  islet  has  its 
name  or  legend.  About  midway  is  the  far-famed  Eagle's  Nest ; 
it  is  a  rugged,  cone-shaped  mountain,  about  1,700  feet  in  height, 
thickly  wooded  at  its  base,  but  bare  towards  the  summit.  Among 
the  crags  of  this  rock  the  eagle  builds  its  eyry,  and  from  this 
circumstance  the  mountain  derives  its  name.  At  this  spot  also 
may  be  evoked  one  of  the  most  charming  of  the  Killarney  echoes. 
"  To  produce  the  desired  effect,  a  small  cannon  is  sometimes  dis- 
charged ;  each  explosion  awakening  a  succession  of  echoes,  like 
peals  of  thunder,  breaking  on  the  startled  ear  with  a  deafening 
crash  that  seems  to  shake  the  mountain  to  its  granite  foundations, 
and  followed  by  another  and  another  till  the  reverberations  are  lost 
in  the  hoarse  and  indistinct  murmurs  of  the  distant  hills.  A 
bugle  sounded  under  the  Eagle's  Nest  produces,  on  the  contrary,  a 
series  of  wild  and  solemn  melodies." 

Passing  some  minor  objects  of  interest,   we  come   to  the  Old 


56  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

Weir  Bridge,  which  consists  of  two  arches,  only  one  of  which, 
however,  affords  a  passage  for  boats.  The  waters  of  the  Upper 
Lake,  rushing  through  this  bridge  with  considerable  impetuosity, 
create  a  strong  current,  which  the  boatmen  designate  "  The 
Rapids."  We  are  now  in  the  Middle  Lake,  called  also  Muckross 
and  Tore  Lake,  and  opposite  Dinis  Island.  On  it  is  built  a 
cottage,  furnished  with  every  requisite  for  the  entertainment  of 
visitors.  Here,  by  arrangement  with  the  hotel-keeper,  dinner  may 
be  in  waiting  for  the  tourist.  This  island,  which  is  of  considerable 
extent,  is  well  wooded,  and  commands  a  fine  view  of  Tore  Moun- 
tain. The  Middle  Lake  is  not  so  much  esteemed  by  tourists  ;  it 
is  less  crowded  with  islands  than  the  other  lakes,  and  partakes 
more  of  the  character  of  English  lake  scenery  ;  nevertheless,  it  is 
a  magnificent  sheet  of  water.  The  principal  islands  are  Dinis 
and  Brickeen,  which  separate  it  from  the  Lower  and  larger  lake. 
Brickeen  seems  a  continuation  of  the  peninsula  of  Muckross,  from 
which  a  narrow  stream  separates  it.  Upon  this  peninsula  is  the 
far-famed  Muckross  Abbey. 

Tore  Mountain,  from  its  noble  appearance  and  great  altitude,  is 
a  striking  feature  in  our  view.  It  is  1,764  feet  in  height,  and 
rises  on  the  southern  shore  "of  the  Middle  Lake,  to  which  it  also 
gives  the  name  of  Tore  Lake.  The  Cascade,  which  is  formed  on 
this  mountain,  properly  speaking  belongs  to  the  Great  Mangerton, 
as  it  is  fed  by  the  overflowing  of  the  Devil's  Punch-bowl  on  a  part 
of  its  summit.  The  visitor  is  admitted  by  a  gate  which  leads  to  a 
path  lined  with  holly,  arbutus,  and  other  evergreens.  As  he 
ascends,  the  rush  of  waters  is  heard ;  at  a  sudden  turning  the 
cataract  suddenly  bursts  upon  the  view.  At  times  the  torrent 
is  very  great,  and  its  waters  are  precipitated  in  a  sheet  of  white 


T©]E€   SfifDOT'lFAm,  JFMSfl  MOTS  2S3LAS?®< 


MUNSTER. 


57 


foam  over  a  projection  of  the  rock,  from  a  height  of  sixty  or 
seventy  feet,  forming  numerous  cascades  in  its  descent.  Its 
waters  then  resume  their  inrpetuous  course  through  a  narrow 
ravine,  amidst  plantations  of  fir  and  pine  trees,  and  tastefully 
arranged  pleasure-grounds,  until  they  fall  into  the  lake.  A  wind- 
ing pathway  leads  to  a  spot  from  whence  is  obtained  a  fine  view 
of  the  Middle  and  Lower  Lakes.  On  ascending  still  higher  a 
panorama  of  unrivalled  beauty  is  unfolded,  perhaps  not  equalled 
even  in  Ireland. 

On  the  eastern  shores  of  the  Middle  and  Lower  Lakes  are  situated 
the  ruins  of  the  renowned  Muckross  Abbey.  This  famous  abbey, 
which  was  formerly  called  Irelagh,  was  founded  by  the  McCarthys 
in  1440.  It  owes  its  present  state  of  preservation  to  repairs  which 
it  received  in  1602,  and  subsequently  in  1662.  The  church  con- 
sisted of  a  nave  and  choir,  separated  by  a  small  belfry,  which  is 
pierced  by  a  narrow  Gothic  door  connecting  the  nave  and  choir. 
Within  the  walls  of  Muckross  Abbey  some  of  the  Irish  kings  are 
supposed  to  be  interred.  The  vault  of  the  McCarthy  Mores  is  placed 
in  the  centre  of  the  choir,  and  a  stately  monument  designates  the 
resting-place  of  the  O'Donoghues  of  the  Glens.  The  tower,  with  its 
slender  and  beautifully  groined  Gothic  arches,  is  an  interesting 
monument  of  antiquity.  The  court-yard,  which  is  of  quadrangular 
shape,  the  cloisters,  and  the  matchless  yew-tree  in  the  centre  of 
the  square,  are  also  objects  of  great  interest.  The  cloisters  run 
along  the  four  sides  of  the  court-yard,  from  which  they  are  divided 
by  handsome  Gothic  arches.  Those  on  the  east  and  west  are 
different  in  their  style  of  architecture  from  those  on  the  north 
and  south  ;  one  set  of  them  being  of  Pointed  character,  and  the 
other  Round,  or  Norman.    The  tree,  which  is  eight  hundred  years 


5  8  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

old,  has  ever  been  regarded  with  the  deepest  religious  veneration 
by  the  peasantry,  many  of  whom  shrink  back  with  terror  on  enter- 
ing within  its  precincts.  On  the  second  storey  above  the  range 
of  cloisters  may  be  seen  the  library,  the  dining-hall,  and  the 
kitchen,  with  various  cellars  and  offices.  An  oratory  or  small 
chapel  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the  ruin. 

The  large  fireplace  of  the  kitchen  Avas  taken  possession  of  for  a 
dormitory,  by  a  hermit  of  the  name    of  Drake,  about  a  hundred 
years  ago.      He  lived  here  for  eleven  years.     As  may  be  conjec- 
tured, his  strange  life  gave  rise  to  numerous  tales  more  or  less 
improbable.      The  belief  among  the  peasantry  was,  that  he  had 
committed   some   crime  which  demanded  severe  atonement,   and 
that  his  penance  was  to  be  made  within  the  precincts  of  Muckross 
Abbey.      He  appeared  to  be  under  forty  years  of  age,    and  made 
no  effort  to  gain  a  reputation  for  sanctity.     He  never  asked  alms, 
nor  would  receive    more    at    a  time    than    a    single  penny ;   he 
never  ate  in  any  dwelling  but  his  own,  if  so  it  might  be  called  ; 
and  yet  he  had  enough  to  pay  for  his  potatoes   and  fish  at  all 
times,   and  to  bestow  a  halfpenny  and  his  prayers  on  those  who 
seemed   more  miserable   than  himself.      He  was  seldom,  if  ever, 
seen  at  chapel,  though  he  prayed  daily  at  particular  spots  in  the 
abbey-yard,  devoting  the  remainder  of  the  day  to  the  cultivation 
of  his  garden.      It  was  reported  and  believed  that  the  anchorite 
had  frequent  wrestlings  in  the  flesh  with  the  Evil  One,  and  that  it 
was  only  by  prayer  and  fasting  he  was  able  to  overcome.      He  was 
gentle  and  cheerful,  kind  to  children,  and  was  much  respected  by 
the  people.      One   day  he  was  nowhere  to   be  seen  ;  search  was 
made  for  him,   but  without  success ;  nothing  was  ever  heard  of 
him.     The  conjectures  as  to  his  disappearance  were  numerous  and 
various. 


MUNSTER.  59 

The  portion  of  ground  on  the  south  of  the  church  was  for  ages 
the  favourite  cemetery  of  the  peasantry  of  the  surrounding  dis- 
trict ;  and  it  was  not  uncommon  for  persons  who  died  at  great 
distances  from  this  place,  to  lay  their  injunctions  on  their  friends 
and  relatives  to  have  their  remains  conveyed  thither  for  sepulture, 
firmly  convinced  that  their  spirits  would  not  enjoy  rest  if  their 
mortal  part  was  consigned  to  any  earth  but  that  of  the  blessed 
Muckross. 

Muckross  House,  the  elegant  seat  of  H.  A.  Herbert,  Esq.,  M.P. 
for  the  county  of  Kerry,  adjoins  the  Abbey.  The  mansion  is  a 
highly  ornamental  building,  in  the  Elizabethan  style  of  architec- 
ture, situated  immediately  north  of  the  Great  Mangerton.  The 
public  are  liberally  allowed  to  walk  and  drive  through  these 
lovely  grounds.  A  good  road  makes  the  circuit  of  the  domain 
and  the  islands  Brickeen  and  Dinis,  and  joins  the  high  road  about 
a  mile  from  Tore  Cottage. 

The  Lower  Lake,  or  Lough  Lene,  is  much  larger  than  either 
of  the  other  lakes.  Its  greatest  length  is  five  miles  and  breadth 
three  miles.  There  are  upwards  of  thirty  islands  and  rocks  in 
this  lake,  but  very  few  of  them  are  of  large  proportions.  The 
largest  islands  are  Ross  Island,  Innisfallen,  and  Rabbit  Island. 
The  chief  features  of  the  Lower  Lake  are  its  wide  placid  surface, 
like  an  inland  sea,  with  quite  a  ripple  on  its  waves,  and  its  nume- 
rous islands,  richly  covered  with  evergreens,  shrubs,  and  even  ash 
and  other  forest  trees.  Innumerable  bays  and  inlets  of  surpassing 
beauty  indent  its  shores,  affording  charming  and  interesting- 
retreats. 

Passing  under  Brickeen  Bridge  into  the  Lower  Lake,  Glena  Bay 
is  entered.    On  the  shore  stands  the  beautiful  cottage  and  grounds 


6o  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

of  Lady  Kenmare,  at  the  foot  of  Glena  Mountain,  which  is  richly- 
covered  with  wood.  Continuing  along  the  south-western  shore, 
we  come  to  0' Sullivan's  Cascade,  which  is  shown  to  strangers  as 
one  of  the  greatest  beauties  of  Killarney.  "  The  stream,  which 
bursts  from  the  deep  bosom  of  a  woody  glen,  throws  itself  over 
the  face  of  a  high  perpendicular  rock  into  a  basin  concealed  from 
the  spectator's  view  ;  from  this  basin  it  forces  itself  impetuously 
between  two  rocks  into  another  reservoir.  This  second  fall  is  of 
considerable  height,  but  the  third  and  lower  one  is  the  most 
striking  in  its  appearance.  Each  of  these  basins  being  large,  there 
appears  a  space  of  several  yards  between  the  three  falls  ;  and  the 
whole  being  as  it  were  embowered  within  a  woody  arch,  the  effect 
is  exceedingly  picturesque  and  beautiful." 

Ross  Island  is  usually  the  first  island  visited  in  the  Lower 
Lake.  It  is  more  properly  speaking  a  peninsula  than  an  island, 
being  separated  from  the  main  land  by  an  artificial  channel  which 
is  crossed  by  a  bridge.  Ross  Island  is  about  tAvo  miles  from 
Killarney,  and  contains  about  eighty  acres,  plantation  measure. 
It  has  been  beautifully  laid  out,  and  formed  into  rich  plantations 
and  ornamental  gardens,  intersected  with  nice  walks  and  pleasant 
drives.  On  the  southern  point  of  the  island  we  come  upon  a 
copper  mine,  opened  in  1804  by  Colonel  Hall.  He  obtained  un- 
doubted proof  that  the  mine  had  been  previously  worked,  but  at  a 
very  remote  period,  when  mining  as  an  art  was  utterly  unknown. 
Several  rude  stone  hammers  were  discovered.  A  groove  had 
evidently  been  cut,  or  rather  rubbed  round  them,  so  as  to  attach 
them  to  a  handle  by  a  strap,  perhaps  of  leather ;  and  the  larger 
end,  against  which  the  blows  were  struck,  was  obviously  worn  by 
use.      Another  circumstance  corroborative  of  the  assumption  that 


MUNSTER.  6 1 

the  mine  had  been  previously  worked,  was  that  the  miners  found 
the  remains  of  fires  all  along  the  vein.  These  fires  must  have  been 
lit  in  order  to  consume  the  limestone  in  which  the  ore  was  bedded, 
so  as  to  form  a  natural  smelting  house  in  the  quarry. 

The  principal  historical  object  of  interest  on  the  island  is  the 
fine  ruin  of  Ross  Castle,  which,  with  its  extensive  lawn  and  other 
appendages,  covers  an  area  of  an  acre  of  ground.  "  The  watch  or 
warder's  tower  stands  somewhat  apart  from  the  castle  itself,  three 
guns  being  planted  on  the  barbican,  or  outward  wall.  This  once 
formidable  stronghold  is  not  so  much  injured  by  the  hand  of  time 
as  many  others  which  are  to  be  seen  in  this  part  of  Ireland.  It  is 
a  tall,  square  embattled  pile,  based  on  a  limestone  rock,  and  is 
supported  by  massive  buttresses  on  the  land  side,  while  fortified 
defences  project  at  its  north-east  and  north-west  angles.  There  is 
a  grand  room  in  the  centre  of  the  first  storey  of  the  castle,  with  a 
large  fireplace  and  a  massive  chimneypiece  of  coarse  marble.  The 
summit,  from  which  there  are  magnificent  views,  is  approached  by 
a  winding  stone  stairs  of  one  hundred  steps.  This  fine  remnant 
of  the  once  strong  and  defensive  hold,  which  afforded  ample  pro- 
tection to  the  feudal  chief  and  his  numerous  followers,  is  said  to 
have  been  erected  about  the  fourteenth  century  by  a  descendant  of 
the  race  of  O'Donoghue,  the  king  of  the  district  and  lord  of  the 
Lakes." 

Ross  Castle  is  famous  in  history  as  being  the  last  in  Munster 
to  hold  out  against  the  Parliamentary  army.  On  the  26th  July, 
1652,  Lord  Muskerry  had  been  defeated  in  the  county  Cork. 
Retreating  to  Ross  Castle,  he  held  out  against  the  repeated  attacks 
of  General  Ludlow.  When,  however,  the  garrison  saw  a  number 
of   armed    boats,   each    capable    of   containing    one   hundred  and 


62  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

twenty  men,  which  Ludlow  placed  on  the  lake,  they  became  so 
terrified,  by  the  apparent  fulfilment  of  a  prophecy  that  the  castle 
could  only  be  taken  by  vessels  of  war,  that  they  lost  all  confidence, 
and  in  their  panic  surrendered  to  the  enemy.  Ludlow,  in  his 
memoirs,  thus  narrates  the  incident  : —  "  When  we  had  received 
our  boats,  each  of  which  was  capable  of  containing  one  hundred 
and  twenty  men,  I  ordered  one  of  them  to  be  rowed  about  the 
water,  in  order  to  find  out  the  most  convenient  place  for  landing 
upon  the  enemy  ;  which  they  perceiving,'  thought  fit,  by  a  timely 
submission,  to  prevent  the  danger  that  'threatened  them." 

Many  legends  are  told  of  the  kings  or  chiefs  who  were  the 
ancient  owners  of  this  island.  One  of  them  relates  to  the 
O'Donoghue  of  the  Lakes,  whose  ruined  castle  we  have  just  been 
describing.  By  a  species  of  enchantment  he  was  said  to  have 
been  doomed  to  dwell  beneath  the  waters  of  the  lake,  and  there 
must  remain  until  by  an  annual,  or,  as  some  say,  a  septennial  ride 
over  the  surface  of  the  lake,  the  silver  shoes  of  his  white  horse 
are  worn  out  by  coming  in  contact  with  its  waves.  Once  every 
seven  years,  on  a  fine  morning,  before  the  first  rays  of  the  sun 
have  begun  to  disperse  the  mists  from  the  bosom  of  the  lake,  the 
O'Donoghue  comes  riding  over  it  on  a  beautiful  snow-white  horse, 
intent  upon  household  affairs,  fairies  hovering  before  him,  and 
strewing  his  path  with  flowers.  As  he  approaches  his  ancient 
residence  everything  returns  to  its  former  state  of  magnificence  : 
his  castle,  his  library,  his  prison,  and  his  pigeon-house  are  repro- 
duced as  in  olden  time.  Those  who  have  courage  to  follow  him 
over  the  lake  may  cross  even  the  deepest  parts  dry-footed,  and 
ride  with  him  into  the  opposite  mountains,  where,  his  treasures  lie 
concealed,  and  the   daring   visitor   will   receive    a  liberal  gift  in 


MUNSTER.  63 

return  for  his  company  ;  but  before  the  sun  has  risen  the 
O'Donoghue  recrosses  the  water,  and  vanishes  amidst  the  ruins  of 
his  castle. 

The  next  island  of  importance  is  Innisfallen.  Near  it  a  small 
rocky  islet  is  pointed  out,  called  O'Donoghue' s  Prison.  Here  it  is 
said  the  renowned  prince  confined  a  disobedient  son  and  some  of 
his  rebellious  associates.  Innisfallen  is  universally  admitted  to  be 
the  most  beautiful  and  interesting  of  the  Lake  islands.  At  a  dis- 
tance the  island  aj>pears  to  be  densely  covered  with  timber  and 
gigantic  evergreens.  The  trees  are  of  larger  growth  than  common, 
the  ash  and  holly  thriving  to  the  best  advantage  ;  the  arbutus 
also  flourishes  here  in  abundance,  its  fine  foliage  adding  much  to 
the  charm  of  the  scenery.  This  evergreen  not  only  contributes  to 
the  beauty  of  the  Lakes,  but  supplies  material  for  the  manufacture 
of  pretty  toys  and  useful  articles,  as  well  as  furnishing  the  cele- 
brated skivers  on  which  salmon  steaks  are  broiled  for  the  refection 
of  hungry  tourists.  On  landing,  the  interior  of  the  island  affords 
views  of  lovely  green  glades  and  shady  alleys.  The  rich  and 
varied  sylvan  scenery  is  very  charming ;  Avhile  the  undulating 
surface,  consisting  of  hill  and  dale,  slope  and  plain,  rock  and 
ravine,  gives  a  picturesque  completeness  to  the  whole. 

The  Abbey  of  Innisfallen — of  which  some  ruins  are  scattered 
over  the  island — is  said  to  have  been  founded  by  St.  Finian 
the  Leper,  in  600.  The  walls  are  of  plain  masonry.  The  most 
interesting  portion  of  the  remains  of  antiquity  is  a  small  oratory 
or  chapel,  in  tolerable  preservation,  with  a  richly  embellished 
Norman  doorway,  one  or  two  of  the  windows  being  in  the  same 
style.  "It  appears  that  this  island  was  originally  called  Innis 
Nessan,  from  the  father  of  the  founder  of  its  venerable  abbey,  who 


64  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

was  descended  from  one  of  the  most  renowned  Munster  kings  ; 
but  it  was  subsequently  changed  to  its  present  name,  as  being 
more  descriptive  of  its  natural  beauty.  In  the  course  of  time  the 
Abbey  came  under  the  rule  of  Eegular  Canons  of  the  Order  of 
St.  Augustine,  and  became  famous  on  account  of  the  '  Annals  of 
Innisfallen,'  compiled  by  some  of  the  brethren.  These  annals, 
which  were  written  on  vellum,  have  been  carefully  preserved,  and 
are  now  in  the  Bodleian  Library,  Oxford.  They  are  regarded  as  being 
amonsfst  the  earliest  and  most  authentic  of  the  ancient  Irish  records. 
The  manuscript  contains  fifty-seven  quarto  leaves,  the  earlier  por- 
tion comprising  a  history  of  ancient  times  down  to  the  arrival  of 
St.  Patrick  in  this  country,  in  the  year  432  ;  and  the  remaining 
part  a  history  of  Ireland  to  the  commencement  of  the  year  1320. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  the  work  of  two  monks,  the  first  bringing 
down  its  annals  to  the  year  1216,  and  the  other  conducting  them 
to  the  early  part  of  1320.  A  short  extract,  taken  from  the  year 
1180,  furnishes  a  clear  instance  of  the  importance  of  the  Abbey 
at  this  period  : — '  This  Abbey  of  Innisfallen,  being  ever  esteemed 
a  paradise  and  a  secure  sanctuary,  the  treasure  and  the  most 
valuable  effects  of  the  whole  country  were  deposited  in  the  hands 
of  the  clergy  ;  notwithstanding  which,  we  find  the  Abbey  was 
plundered  in  this  year  by  Maolderin,  son  of  Daniel  O'Donoghue. 
Many  of  the  clergy  were  also  slain,  even  in  their  sanctuary,  by 
the  McCarthys.  But  God  soon  punished  this  act  of  impiety  and 
sacrilege  by  bringing  many  of  its  authors  to  an  untimely  end.' : 

Among  other  objects  of  interest  to  be  seen  on  Innisfallen  is  the 
"  Bed  of  Honour."  This  is  a  rude  seat,  formed  on  a  ledge  of  rock 
slightly  projecting,  which  acquired  this  name  from  a  story  of  a  lady 
who  had  eloped  with  her  lover  having  slept  during  the  night  on 


MUNSTER.  65 

this  ledge,  her  lover  keeping  watch  and  ward  over  her  throughout 
the  night.  We  will  take  leave  of  this  lovely  little  island  in  the 
appropriate  farewell  lines  of  the  poet  Moore  : — 

"  Sweet  Innisfallen,  fare  thee  well, 

May  calm  and  sunshine  long  he  thine, 
How  fair  thou  art,  let  others  tell, 
While  hut  to  feel  how  fail'  be  mine. 

"  Sweet  Innisfallen,  long  shall  dwell 

In  memory's  dream  that  sunny  smile, 
Which  o'er  thee  on  that  evening  fell, 
AMien  first  I  saw  thy  fairy  isle." 

Besides  the  islands  we  have  mentioned  there  are  numerous 
small  islets  in  the  Lower  Lake,  with  characteristic  names,  such  as 
Crane  Island,  the  Cow  Island,  Paddy  Blake's  Island,  the  Burned 
Island,  the  Swallow,  the  Jackdaw,  and  O'Donoghue's  Coach-and- 
Four.  With  all  of  these  some  legend  or  tale  is  connected,  irre- 
spective of  their  charms  in  picturesque  beauty  of  rock  and  ever- 
greens. We  must  not  dwell  longer  on  the  lakes,  but  proceed  to 
note  other  renowned  objects  and  scenes  of  interest  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood. 

Leaving  the  town  of  Killarney,  and  proceeding  in  a  north- 
westerly direction  for  about  two  miles,  a  slight  deviation  to  the 
right  leads  to  the  venerable  and  interesting  ruins  of  Aghadoe, 
consisting  of  the  remnant  of  a  round  tower,  the  walls  of  a  small 
cathedral  church,  and  the  base  of  a  castle  tower.  The  Church  is  a 
low  oblong  building,  consisting  of  two  distinct  chapels  of  unequal 
antiquity,  lying  east  and  west  of  each  other  ;  that  to  the  east  is 
in  the  Pointed  style,  date  1158,  and  dedicated  to  the  Holy 
.Trinity ;  the  other,  or  western  chapel,  is  of  an  earlier  peri*  d, 
between  the  sixth  and  twelfth  centuries,  in  the  Romanesque  style, 

F 


66  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

and  was  under  the  patronage  of  St.  Fenian.  An  ornamented 
doorway,  although  much  injured  by  time,  is  still  exceedingly 
graceful  and  beautiful.  Of  the  Castle  the  only  remain  is  a  frag- 
ment of  a  tower  about  30  feet  in  height.  Nothing  is  known  of 
its  foundation  or  occupation  ;  but  as  it  is  sometimes  called  "  the 
Pulpit,"  and  sometimes  "  the  Bishop's  Chair,"  it  has  been  conjec- 
tured that  it  was  originally  the  residence  of  the  bishop  of  the 
diocese.  The  masonry  of  the  Round  Tower  is  greatly  superior  to 
that  of  the  Church ;  the  stones  being  large,  regular,  and  well 
dressed.  The  greater  part  of  the  facing  stone  of  the  north  side 
has  been  unfortunately  taken  away  for  the  erection  of  tombs  in 
the  adjacent  burying-ground.  Within  and  without,  the  spoliator 
has  been  effectually  at  work. 

Regaining  the  road  from  which  we  diverged  to  visit  Aghadoe, 
we  proceed  due  west,  passing  many  fine  residences,  among  them — 
Aghadoe  House  ;  Lake  View  House,  the  seat  of  Mr.  James 
O'Connell,  brother  of  Daniel  O'Connell ;  Killalee  House,  and,  close 
at  hand,  the  ruins  of  the  Church  of  the  same  name  ;  the  beautiful 
demesne  of  Beaufort  House,  and  the  handsome  place  called  Dunloe 
Castle. 

About  two  miles  from  the  entrance  of  the  Gap  of  Dunloe  is  a 
singular  cave.  It  is  situated  in  a  field  close  by  the  high  road,  and 
was  discovered,  in  1838,  by  some  labourers  in  constructing  a  sunk 
fence.  They  broke  into  a  subterranean  chamber  of  a  circular 
form,  the  walls  of  which  were  of  uncemented  stones  inclining  in- 
wards, with  a  roof  also  of  long  transverse  stones.  In  the  passage 
were  found  several  human  skulls  and  bones.  The  Cave  of  Dunloe 
must  be  regarded  as  an  ancient  Irish  library,  lately  disinterred  and 
restored  to  the  light.     The  books  are  the  large  impost  stones  which 


sfmrn 


'  $jjl$8 


:  ©jyp  ©if   itoi 


- . , . 


MUNSTER.  67 

form  the  roof ;  their  angles  contain  the  writing.  A  library  of  such  a 
literature  was  never  heard  of  in  England  before,  and  scarcely  in 
Ireland  ;  and  yet  it  is  of  the  highest  antiquity.  The  inscriptions 
are  in  the  Ogham  character.  It  consists  of  sixteen  letters  repre- 
sented by  four  arrangements  of  strokes,  either  upon  a  line,  or,  as 
is  more  generally  the  case,  upon  the  sharp  edge  of  a  stone.  The 
earliest  written  piece  of  Ogham  writing,  at  present  known,  is  in  an 
ancient  vellum  M.S.  of  the  eleventh  century,  which  was  at  one 
time  in  the  possession  of  Sir  James  Ware,  and  is  now  preserved  in 
the  British  Museum. 

We  noAV  draw  near  to  the  mountain  gorge  which  leads  to  the 
celebrated  Gap  of  Dunloe.  Here  the  visitor  meets  with  Kate 
Kearney's  cottage,  where  he  is  invited  to  partake  of  goat's  milk, 
flavoured  with  mountain  dew. 

The  Gap  of  Dunloe  is  a  notable  place,  notwithstanding  some 
diversity  of  opinion  exists  as  to  the  merits  of  its  claims  to  admira- 
tion. Situated  amidst  scenery  remarkable  for  its  sylvan  beaut}^ 
the  singular  character  of  this  deep  and  gloomy  ravine  is  thrown 
into  striking  contrast.  The  Gap  is  a  wild  and  narrow  mountain 
pass,  between  the  range  of  hills  known  as  Macgillicuddy's  Reeks 
and  the  Purple  Mountain,  which  is  a  shoulder  of  the  Tomies. 
The  mountains  which  rise  on  either  side,  dark,  stern,  and  barren, 
with  no  great  space  between,  impart  a  solemn  grandeur  to  the 
Pass.  "  The  Glen,  which  is  about  four  miles  in  length,  presents  a 
most  extraordinary  appearance.  On  either  hand,  the  cragg}^  cliffs, 
composed  of  huge  masses  of  projecting  rocks,  impend  fearfully 
over  the  narrow  pathway,  and  at  every  step  threaten  with  de- 
struction the  adventurous  explorer  of  this  desolate  scene.  In  the 
interstices   of  these  immense   fragments,   a   few  shrubs  and   trees 

!■■  2 


68  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

shoot  out  in  fantastic  shapes,  which,  with  the  dark  ivy  and 
luxuriant  heather,  contribute  to  the  picturesque  effect  of  the 
landscape.  A  small  but  rapid  stream,  called  the  Loe  (from 
whence  the  name  of  the  ravine),  traverses  the  whole  length  of 
the  Glen,  expanding  itself  at  different  points  into  five  small  lakes, 
each  having  its  own  proper  name,  but  which  are  known  in  the 
asfsrreofate  as  the  Cummeen  Thomeen  Lakes.      The  road,  which  is 

DO        o  ' 

a  mere  rugged  footpath,  constructed  on  the  frequent  brink  of 
precipices,  follows  the  course  of  the  stream,  and  in  two  instances 
crosses  it  by  means  of  bridges.  One  of  these  (seen  in  our  view) 
stands  at  the  head  of  a  beautiful  rapid,  where  the  water  rushes 
in  whitening  foam  over  the  rocky  bed  of  the  torrent." 

The  passage  through  the  Pass  is  made  on  ponies  or  afoot,  the 
guide  pointing  out  the  objects  of  interest  as  they  occur.  The  road 
for  a  short  distance  up  the  Gap  keeps  on  the  right  of  the  stream, 
passing  the  lake  called  Cosaun  Lough.  Farther  on,  it  crosses  the 
stream  before  reaching  Black  Lough,  where  St.  Patrick  is  said  to 
have  banished  the  last  Irish  snake,  and  keeps  to  the  left  of  Cust- 
wally  Lough  and  Auger  Lough,  finally  crossing  to  the  right  before 
reaching  Black  Lough. 

The  rocks  along  the  Gap  are  of  the  most  grotesque  form,  and 
each  has  received  some  distinguishing  name.  One  of  them  is 
christened  O'Donoghue's  Hunting-rock,  and  another  O'Donoghue's 
Heart.  On  one  side  is  pointed  out  the  Bull,  so  called  from  its 
bold  and  rugged  appearance.  Perhajis  the  best  known  feature  of 
the  Pass  is  the  Pike  Rock,  situated  at  the  upper  end  of  the  Auger 
Lake,  where  the  valley  becomes  so  contracted  as  scarcely  to  leave 
room  between  the  precipitous  sides  for  the  narrow  pathway. 
Although  the   mountains   on   either   side  are   for  the   most   part 


I 


©@MM3E  BIHST,  TIHE  S33LAOT  V.&L.I.ll'. 


MUNSTER.  69 

bare,  at  intervals  they  present  patches  of  cultivation,  relieving 
the  somewhat  gloomy  barrenness  of  the  scene.  Occasionally  the 
deep  gloom  of  the  Pass  is  dispelled  by  the  notes  of  the. guide's 
bugle,  or  the  discharge  of  cannon,  evoking  the  magnificent  echoes, 
which  pass  from  hill  to  hill.  While  making  his  way  through  the 
Gap,  the  visitor  will  meet  with  women  and  young  girls,  each  of 
whom  carries  a  bottle  of  goat's  milk  and  a  bottle  of  whiskey. 
They  are  loud  in  their  praises  of  this  beverage,  attributing  to  it 
reviving  and  sustaining  qualities  of  an  extraordinary  character.  The 
stranger  cannot  help  regretting  that  so  many  promising  young 
persons  should  be  compelled  to  earn  a  trifle  in  so  precarious  a 
manner,  and  one  so  unsuited  to  their  sex. 

Emerging  from,  the  Gap,  what  is  called  the  Comme  Dhuv,  or  the 
Black  Valley,  displays  itself— a  wu'de  and  desolate  hollow,  sur- 
mounted by  the  finest  peaks  of  this  mountain  range.  This  vale 
is  considered  by  many  more  striking  than  the  Gap  of  Dunloe. 
"  On  our  right,"  says  Mr.  Windele,  in  describing  it,  "  lies  the 
deep,  broad,  desolate  glen  of  Comme  Dhuv ;  an  amphitheatre 
buried  at  the  base,  and  hemmed  in  by  vast  masses  of  the  moun- 
tain, whose  rugged  sides  are  marked  by  the  courses  of  the  descend- 
ing streams.  At  the  western  extremity  of  the  valley  gloomily 
reposes,  amidst  silence  and  shadows,  one  of  those  lakes,  or  rather 
circular  basins,  of  dark,  still  waters,  '  Loch  an  brie  dearg,'  '  the  lake 
of  the  char  or  red  trout.'  Other  lesser  lakes  dot  the  surface  of 
the  moor,  and,  uniting,  form  at  the  side  opposite  the  termination 
of  the  Gap,  a  fine  waterfall  of  considerable  height,  enjoying  the 
advantage  not  common  to  other  falls  in  Ireland,  of  being  plenti- 
fully supplied  with  water  at  every  season  of  the  year."  The 
darkness  and  savage  grandeur  of  the  valley  is  not  caused  by  any 


7o  SCENEKF  IN  IRELAND. 

excess  of  vegetation,  what  exists  being,  on  the  contrary,  very 
stunted,  and  sparingly  scattered.  The  effect  is  produced  by  the 
height  of  the  hills  surrounding  the  vale,  and  the  immense  quantity 
of  dissolved  peaty  matter  in  the  water.  When  seen  on  a  hot, 
hazy  day  the  view  is  truly  weird-like  and  magical,  reminding  the 
spectator  of  a  composition  by  Salvator  Rosa,  or  a  fitting  haunt  of 
the  witches  in  Macbeth.  "  Had  there  been  at  the  bottom,"  writes 
Kohl,  "  among  the  rugged  masses  of  black  rock,  some  smoke  and 
flame  instead  of  water,  we  might  have  imagined  we  were  looking 
into  the  entrance  to  the  infernal  regions." 

The  ascents  of  Macgillicuddy's  Reeks  and  Mangerton  are  not 
usually  made  by  the  ordinary  tourist  ;  although,  should  the 
weather  prove  favourable,  the  views  from  the  summits  of  either 
range  are  very  fine.  The  Reeks  have  proved  to  be  the  highest 
mountains  in  Ireland,  Carrantuel,  the  loftiest  point,  rising  to  an 
altitude  of  3,414  feet,  being  658  feet  higher  than  Mangerton. 
To  the  inexperienced,  the  ascent  of  Carrantuel  is  both  difficult 
and  dangerous,  and  should  only  be  attempted  by  those  accus- 
tomed to  mountain  climbing.  "  But  the  peak  of  the  ridge  once 
gained,  the  prospect  from  thence  will  amply  repay  the  toil  of  the 
way.  The  scene  is  magnificent  beyond  conception.  Beneath  the 
spectator's  feet  lies  a  sea  of  terrene  billows,  each  with  its  own 
blue  lake,  amongst  which  Lough  Carragh  is  distinguished  as  the 
broadest  and  fairest.  At  every  turn  they  are  seen  in  the  sunlight 
or  shadowed  by  overhanging  precipices.  Of  the  Killarney  Lakes, 
a  small  portion  only  of  the  Lower  Lake  is  visible,  owing  to  the 
interposition  of  the  Tomies  Mountains.  A  vast  and  uninterruped 
view  is  also  obtained  from  this  elevated  point,  extending  beyond 
the    Shannon   on    the    north,    and    embracing   in  a  westerly   and 


MUNSTER.  7 1 

southerly  direction  the  bays  of  Tralee,  Dingle,  Castlemaine,  Ken- 
mare,  Bantry,  Pimm  anus,  with  Cape  Clear,  and  far  beyond  all,  the 
waters  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  forming  a  dark  line  of  horizon  to  the 
immense  picture." 

Until  lately,  Mangerton  was  considered  the  highest  mountain 
in  Ireland.  The  ascent  is  by  no  means  difficult,  and  may  be 
made  on  ponies.  Although  not  so  wildly  picturesque  as  the 
Reeks,  the  views  are  very  fine,  a  vast  and  commanding  prospect 
being  gradually  unfolded  as  the  visitor  ascends — mountains,  plains, 
and  lakes,  spreading  like  a  map  beneath.  The  great  object  of 
attraction  is  the  Devil's  Punch-bowl,  near  the  summit  of  the 
mountain.  This  "Bowl"  is  a  small  lake,  about  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  in  diameter.  Its  waters,  which  appear  of  an  inky  blackness 
from  the  dark  nature  of  the  surrounding  peat-soil  and  the  over- 
hanging shadows  of  the  rocks,  are  intensely  cold,  yet  they  have 
never  been  known  to  freeze.  The  supply  of  water  is  principally 
from  springs,  and  the  overflow  forms  the  Tore  Waterfall,  already 
described. 

The  summit  is  next  reached,  although  the  less  enterprising 
usually  limit  their  ascent  to  the  Punch-bowl.  The  view  from  the 
mountain-top  defies  description.  Should  the  weather  be  favour- 
able, a  magnificent  panorama  of  the  district  is  obtained.  In  the 
far  away  distance  is  the  broad  Atlantic,  with  the  river  of  Kenmare, 
the  Bay  of  Dingle,  and  the  storm-beaten  coast  of  lveragh.  Mid- 
way are  the  mountains — of  all  forms  and  altitudes,  with  their 
lakes  and  cataracts,  and  streams  of  white  foam.  At  our  feet  lie 
the  three  Killarney  Lakes,  with  Glena,  and  Tore,  and  Tomies. 

The  descent  of  Mangerton  may  be  varied  by  turning  aside  to 
visit  Coom-na-goppel, — "  The  Glen  of  the  Horse," — lying  between 


?2  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

Mangerton  and  Stoompa.  This  lonely  glen,  surrounded  on  all 
sides  by  perpendicular  rocks,  is  about  two  miles  in  length,  and 
contains  three  small  lakes,  one  called  O'Donoghue's  Ink  Bottle,  from 
the  darkness  of  its  waters.  Still  farther  east  is  Lough  Guitane,  of 
considerable  size,    but   possessing  few   attractions,   except  to  the 

angler. 

The  natural  beauties  of  the  county  of  Kerry  are  by  no  means 
confined  to  its  famous  lakes.  Tourists  who  have  time  at  com- 
mand will  do  well  to  visit  the  western  sea-coast.  The  stupendous 
masses  of  rock,  which  form  headlands  and  protect  the  numerous 
noble  bays  against  the  mighty  waves  of  the  Atlantic,  the  rocky 
mountains  which  line  the  shores  of  the  bays  and  harbours  be- 
tween the  Shannon  and  Bantry  Bay,  are  as  fertile  in  scenes  of 
bold  and  striking  grandeur  as  the  most  ardent  admirer  of  pictorial 
sublimity  can  desire. 

To  those  who  desire  to  see  something  of  the  attractions  of  the 
Shannon,  Limerick  may  be  expeditiously  reached  by  railway  from 
Killarney,  the  distance  being  about  one  hundred  and  one  miles. 


LIMERICK  AND  CLARE. 


Limerick  City — The  Cathedral — The  Castle — The  Upper  Shannon — Falls  of  Doonas — 
Castle-Connel — Killaloe — Lough  Derg — The  Lower  Shannon — Ennis— Foynes — 
Tarhert — Scattery  Island — Kilrush — Kilkee — Cave  of  Kilkee — Puffing  Rock — Ross 
Bridges — Coast-line,  County  Clare — Hag's  Head — Cliffs  of  Moher. 

rPHE  City  of  Limerick  has  been  the  scene  of  many  interesting 
and  important  historical  events.  It  is  situated  on  the  river 
Shannon,  and  is  divided  into  three  parts,  the  Irish  town,  the  English 
town,  and  Newtown-Pery,  so-called  after  the  family  name  of  the  Earl 
of  Limerick,  on  whose  property  it  is  built.  The  more  ancient  parts 
of  the  city  are  narrow  and  gloomy,  relieved,  however,  by  cheering 
glimpses  of  the  Avaters  of  the  Shannon.  In  the  Newtown  the 
streets  are  spacious,  cut  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  are 
occupied  by  elegant  houses  and  merchants'  stores,  constructed  of 
brick  and  limestone,  for  which  the  neighbouring  district  supplies 
the  finest  materials.  At  every  opening  to  the  westward  salubrious 
breezes  from  the  Shannon  inspire  health  and  vigour. 

Among  the  interesting  features  of  this  famous  city  are  its  fine 
quays  and  magnificent  bridges.  Mathew  Bridge  (named  after  the 
great  Temperance  advocate)  is  a  strong  and  commodious  fabric, 


74  SCENERV  IN  IRELAND. 

erected  in  1844.  Baal's  Bridge  is  a  modern  structure,  built  in 
1842  on  the  site  of  the  old  one,  which  was  of  great  antiquity. 
Thormond  Bridge  connects  English  Town  with  the  county  of 
Clare ;  and  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  west  stands 
Wellesley  Bridge — one  of  the  handsomest  in  Ireland — connecting 
the  county  of  Clare  with  Newtown-Pery. 

St.  Mary's  Cathedral  is  a  building  of  massive  character  and 
ample  proportions,  the  nave  and  choir  being  about  170  feet  in 
length  by  30  feet  in  breadth,  and  the  transept  about  93  feet  long 
by  30.  It  is  built  in  what  may  be  called  the  Transition  style. 
Many  of  the  monuments  are  highly  interesting.  The  external 
appearance  of  this  ancient  pile  is  grand  and  imposing,  and  is 
rendered  strikingly  conspicuous  by  its  battlemented  walls  and 
magnificent  square  tower,  120  feet  in  height,  which  rises  on  its 
western  extremity.  From  this  elevation  a  lovely  panorama  of  the 
Shannon  is  obtained.  This  venerable  building  has  been  referred  to 
the  twelfth  and  thirteenth  centuries.  How  it  escaped  the  vicissi- 
tudes of  war  is  a  marvel,  especially  when  we  recollect  the  protracted 
sieges  to  which  the  city  was  subjected  by  the  armies  of  Cromwell 
and  William  III.  The  Cathedral  possesses  a  chime  of  eight  bells, 
connected  with  which  is  the  following  touching  story  : — 

"The  remarkably  fine  bells  of  Limerick  Cathedral  were  originally, 
it  is  related,  brought  from  Italy.  They  had  there  been  manu- 
factured by  a  young  native  (whose  name  tradition  has  not  pre- 
served) and  finished  after  the  toil  of  many  years,  and  he  prided 
himself  upon  his  work.  They  were  purchased  from  him  by  the 
prior  of  a  neighbouring  convent,  and  with  the  proceeds  of  this 
sale  the  young  Italian  bought  for  himself  a  little  villa  near  the 
convent,  so  that  he  might  have  the  pleasure  of  hearing  the  sweet 


MUNSTER. 


75 


tones  of  his  own  bells  come  pealing  to  him  from  the  convent  cliff, 
and  that  he  might  grow  old  in  the  enjoyment  of  their  sound  and 
of  domestic  happiness.  This  dream,  however,  was  soon  dispelled, 
for  '  in  some  of  those  broils,  whether  civil  or  foreign,  which  are 
the  undying  worm  in  the  peace  of  a  fallen  land,  the  good  Italian 
was  a  sufferer  among  many.  He  lost  his  all,  and,  after  the  passing 
of  the  storm,  found  himself  preserved  alone  amid  the  wreck  of 
fortune,  friends,  family,  and  home.  The  convent  in  which  the 
bells,  the  chefs-d'oeuvre  of  his  skill,  were  hung,  was  razed  to  the 
ground,  and  his  much-loved  bells  carried  away  to  another  land. 
Haunted  by  his  memories,  and  deserted  by  his  hopes,  he  became 
a  wanderer  upon  the  earth,  and  his  hair  grew  grey,  and  his  heart 
withered  before  he  again  found  a  home  and  a  friend.  In  this 
desolation  of  spirit  he  formed  the  resolution  of  seeking  the 
country  and  the  place  to  which  these  treasures  of  his  memory  had 
been  finally  borne.  He  sailed  for  Ireland,  and  proceeded  up  the 
Shannon.  The  vessel  anchored  in  a  j^ool  near  Limerick,  and  he 
hired  a  small  boat  for  the  purpose  of  landing.  The  city  was  now 
before  him,  and  he  beheld  St.  Mary's  steeple  lifting  its  turreted 
head  above  the  smoke  and  mist  of  the  old  town.  He  sat  in  the 
stern,  and  looked  fondly  towards  it.  It  was  an  evening  so  calm 
and  beautiful  as  to  remind  him  of  his  own  native  haven  in  the 
sweetest  time  of  the  year — the  death  of  the  spring.  The  broad 
stream  appeared  like  one  smooth  mirror,  and  the  little  vessel  glided 
through  it  with  almost  a  noiseless  expedition.  On  a  sudden, 
amid  the  general  stillness,  the  bells  tolled  from  the  cathedral  ; 
the  rowers  rested  on  their  oars,  and  the  vessel  went  forward  with 
the  impulse  it  had  received.  The  old  Italian  looked  towards  tho 
city,  crossed  his  arms  on  his  breast,  and  lay  back  in  his  seat — . 


7 6  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

home,  happiness,  early  recollections,  friends,  family — all  were  in 
the  sound,  and  went  with  it  to  his  heart.  When  the  rowers 
looked  up,  they  beheld  him  with  his  face  still  turned  towards  the 
cathedral,  from  whence  the  sweet  sound  of  his  own  bells  were 
softly  pealing,  but  his  eyes  were  closed,  and  when  they  landed  him 
they  found  him  cold  and  dead.' 

"That  there  was  originally  some  foundation  for  this  touching 
legend  is  more  than  probable,  but  if  so  it  belonged  to  a  much 
earlier  set  of  bells  than  those  which  now  hang  in  the  Cathedral 
tower,  the  oldest  of  which  dates  back  only  to  the  year  1613,  and 
all  of  which  are  of  home  manufacture."  * 

King  John's  Castle  is  the  principal  and  most  important  specimen 
of  the  ancient  fortresses  of  the  city  ;  even  in  its  ruins  it  is  a 
noble  structure.  "  It  consists  at  present  of  a  quadrangular  area, 
surrounded  by  an  uncommonly  thick  and  well-built  wall.  The 
entrance  in  the  west  front,  which  faces  Castle  Street,  was  by  a 
slender  door  approached  by  a  flight  of  steps,  above  which  appear 
the  royal  arms  of  England,  of  comparatively  modern  construction. 
This  entrance  is  flanked  on  each  side  by  an  immensely  strong 
circular  tower,  surmounted  by  embrasure  battlements.  Between 
these  towers  and  the  two  others  of  equally  massive  character, 
which  rise  one  on  each  extremity  of  this  side  of  the  quadrangle, 
the  curtain  wall  is  prepared  for  defence  by  strong  embrasures. 
On  the  north  front,  which  faces  the  Shannon,  and  the  suburbs  on 
the  Clare  side,  extends  a  defensive  wall  of  massive  proportions, 
with  a  characteristic  circular  tower,  corresponding  in  strength  and 
appearance  with  those  which  line  the  western  front,  upon  the 
summit  of  which  large  guns  are  mounted."      Within  the  central 

*  Llewellynn  Jewitt. 


MUNSTER.  77 

area,  which  formed  the  site  of  the  grand  keep,  military  barracks 
have  been  erected.  This  castle  is  considered  to  be  the  finest 
example  of  a  Norman  stronghold  to  be  met  with  in  the  country. 

The  public  buildings  of  the  city  are  handsome  and  commodious, 
and  the  churches  and  public  institutions  worthy  of  inspection. 

"Limerick,"  says  a  lively  tourist,  "justly  celebrated  for  its 
hooks,  is  far  more  to  be  admired  for  its  eyes  ;  for,  although  the 
former  are  the  best  in  the  world,  the  latter  are  much  more 
killing."  Its  lasses  have  the  credit  of  being  the  fairest  of  Eve's 
fair  daughters.  Flax  and  lace  are  among  the  chief  manufactures  ; 
and  the  city  has  an  extensive  trade  in  provisions.  Large  quan- 
tities of  salmon  are  caught  in  the  Shannon,  and  trout  in  its  tribu- 
taries. History  records  that  salmon  was  sold  in  Limerick  market 
at  a  penny  per  pound  ;  and  the  indentures  of  aj^prentices  used  to 
stipulate  that  they  should  not  be  compelled  to  eat  that  fish  for 
dinner  more  than  three  times  a  week. 

But  to  the  tourist  the  real  glory  of  Limerick  is  the  Shannon, 
broad  and  deep — somewhat  given  to  overflowing.  The  follow- 
ing is  a  sketch  of  the  course  of  this  "  king  of  island  rivers,"  as  it 
has  been  called  : — 

"  Lough  Allen,  in  the  county  of  Leitrim,  supplied  by  streams 
from  the  high  and  rugged  mountains  by  which  it  is  surrounded, 
forms  the  source  in  which  the  Shannon  is  considered  to  rise. 
The  Lake  is  about  ten  miles  long,  and  is  deeply  imbedded  in  lofty 
hills,  which  contain  rich  and  copious  stores  of  iron  and  coal.  Out 
of  Lough  Allen  the  river  flows  in  a  narrow  and  rather  shallow  and 
impeded  channel ;  occasionally,  however,  widening  into  small 
lakes  between  the  counties  of  Leitrim  and  Roscommon  to  Lanes- 
borough,  where  it  expands  into  the  great  Lough  Ree,  twent}^  miles 


78  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

long,  and  in  some  parts  four  broad.  For  thirty-seven  miles,  to 
Portumna,  the  channel  is  more  confined  ;  but  it  is  still  a  bold  and 
wide  river.  From  Portumna  to  Killaloe  its  course  is  through 
Lough  Derg,  the  largest  of  the  Shannon  Lakes,  being  twenty-three 
miles  long.  At  Killaloe  it  resumes  the  character  of  an  ordinary 
river ;  but  the  navigation  thence  to  Limerick  is  contracted  and 
difficult.  From  Limerick  to  its  mouth,  the  Shannon  is  a  tideway, 
and  appears,  in  fact,  a  great  estuary  or  arm  of  the  sea." 

Throughout  this  course  of  about  two  hundred  and  forty  miles, 
it  waters  ten  counties — now  as  a  narrow  stream,  then  a  wide 
glassy  lake  ;  now  placid  and  calm,  surrounded  by  rich  meadows  or 
luxuriant  woods,  and  then  dashing  down  a  rugged  and  uneven 
bed  in  mimic  cataracts. 

This  last  picturesque  feature  of  the  Shannon  may  be  seen  at  its 
best  but  a  few  miles  from  Limerick.  At  the  Falls  of  Doonas 
the  whole  body  of  the  river  dashes  over  a  mass  of  rocks  which 
descend  for  the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  forming  a  series  of  im- 
petuous cascades.  The  town  of  Castle-Connel,  with  its  fine 
mansions  and  grounds,  forms  part  of  the  landscape  and  adds  much 
to  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  On  the  Limerick  side  of  the  river 
there  is  a  charming  walk,  which  commands  a  view  of  the  stream 
as  it  rolls  and  tumbles  in  wild  confusion  over  the  rugged  and 
water-worn  rocks.  The  rapids  can  be  seen,  if  possible,  to  still 
greater  advantage  from  the  fine  mansion  called  Doonas  House,  as 
the  principal  falls  are  on  the  Clare  side  of  the  river.  To  denizens 
on  the  Thames  the  novelty  of  the  scene  is  particularly  striking. 
A  writer  judiciously  remarks  : — "  It  is  only  in  the  streams  and 
rivulets  of  England  that  rapids  are  found  ;  the  larger  rivers  gene- 
rally glide  smoothly  on,   without  impediment  from   rocks.       The 


--V 

s 

... 


<^tOT©H!: 


MUNSTEJR.  79 

Thames,  Trent,  Mersey,  and  Severn,  when  they  lose  the  character 
of  streams  and  become  rivers,  hold  a  noiseless  course  ;  but  the 
Shannon,  larger  than  all  the  four,  here  pours  an  immense  body  of 
water — which  above  the  rapids  is  40  feet  deep,  and  300  yards 
wide — through  and  above  a  congregation  of  huge  rocks,  which 
extend  nearly  half  a  mile,  and  offers  not  only  an  unusual  scene, 
but  a  spectacle  approaching  much  nearer  the  sublime  than  any 
moderate-sized  stream  can  offer,  even  in  its  highest  cascade." 

The  lover  of  the  picturesque  should  not  leave  Limerick  without 

paying   a   visit   to   Castle-Connel,   which  is   six    miles    from  the 

city,  and  can  be  reached  by  rail.      It  is  said  to  have  derived  its 

name  from  the  ruined  castle  of  the  kings  of  Minister,  the  warlike 

O'Briens.      The  extensive  ruins  are  still  conspicuous  on  the   top 

of  a  high  and  solitary  rock  above  the  river  ;    the  ivy-clad  side 

wall  of  the  stronghold,  and  the  lofty  arch  at  its  eastern  extremity, 

present  features  of  a  truly  imposing  character.       "  The  connecting 

wall  that  extended  from  the  north  side  of  the  tower  to  the  portions 

which  are  still  standing  on  the  north  and  east  points  of  the  rocky 

elevation,  has   fallen,  and   dense  masses    of  the   closely  cemented 

masonry  are  to  be  seen  lying  within  the  still  surrounding  walls, 

and  at  the  base  of  the  steep  acclivity.      One  gigantic  fragment  in 

its  fall  bounded  across  the  broad  roadway  which  sweeps  round  the 

base  of  the  hill,  and,  notwithstanding  its  having  fallen  from  such 

a  height,  still  remains  a  compact  mass  of  some  dozen  feet  square." 

The  castle  was  garrisoned  by  General  Ireton  in    1651,   while  on 

his   march   to   besiege   Limerick.      It  was  also  strongly  garrisoned 

by  the  troops  of  James  II.  in  1G90.      After  its  final  surrender  it 

was  blown  up  by  General  de  Ginkell. 

The  Protestant  church  of  Castle-Connel,  pleasantly  situated   on 


8o  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

a  richly  planted  hill,  is  a  pretty  and  interesting  structure.  There 
are  several  beautiful  monuments  in  this  church,  one  of  more  than 
ordinary  interest  to  the  memory  of  the  youthful  Viscount  Fitz- 
gibbon,  who  fell  at  Balaklava. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  village  is  a  chalybeate  spring,  which 
is  much  resorted  to  by  the  citizens  of  Limerick.  Besides  the 
attractions  of  the  spa,  and  the  beautiful  scenery,  Castle-Connel  is 
frequented  in  the  angling  season  by  salmon-fishers.  At  this  place 
may  be  said  to  commence  the  rapids  of  the  Shannon,  which  from 
here  to  Limerick  excite  the  admiration  of  the  beholder.  The  most 
remarkable  of  the  falls  we  have  already  pictured  and  described. 

About  six  miles  farther  up  the  river  is  Killaloe,  in  the  county  of 
Clare,  about  twenty  miles  from  Ennis.  It  is  a  place  of  great  antiquity, 
at  one  time  called  Laonia  ;  its  present  name  is  supposed  to  be  a  cor- 
ruption of  Kill-da-Lua.  The  Cathedral  is  a  large  cruciform  build- 
ing, with  a  heavy  tower  in  the  centre.  Its  general  style  is  Norman, 
and  it  is  referred  to  the  twelfth  century.  Adjoining  the  Cathedral 
is  the  Church  of  St.  Molua,  an  interesting  structure,  supposed  to 
have  been  erected  in  the  seventh  century.  The  town  is  now  de- 
pendent on  the  fisheries  and  slate  quarries  in  the  neighbourhood. 

A  discriminating  tourist  thus  describes  the  scenery  of  the  dis- 
trict : — "  The  mountain  scenery  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Killaloe 
is  exceedingly  grand,  the  chain  on  the  Clare  side  of  the  Shannon 
displaying,  as  it  sweeps  from  north  to  south,  features  of  great 
sublimity  ;  while  that  on  the  Limerick  side,  extending  from  north 
to  east,  and  terminating  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  lofty 
Keeper  Mountain,  at  the  end  of  which  are  the  bounds  of  the  coun- 
ties of  Limerick  and  Tipperary,  exhibits  traits  of  equal  magnificence 
and  grandeur." 


mmm0wm 


iASJM©3 


MUNSTER.  8 1 

The  appearance  of  the  Shannon  at  Killaloe  is  picturesque 
and  beautiful,  its  course  being  interrupted  by  a  ridge  of  rocks, 
over  which  the  waters  thunder  in  time  of  flood.  A  curious 
old  bridge  of  nineteen  arches  here  crosses  the  river,  forming  a 
beautiful  object  in  the  landscape,  as  seen  in  our  engraving.  At  a 
short  distance  south  of  the  town,  on  the  western  bank  of  the 
Shannon,  is  the  palace  of  the  Protestant  bishop  of  the  diocese. 

From  Killaloe,  a  pleasant  trip  of  about  a  mile  may  be  made  to 
Lough  Derg,  the  largest  lake  in  the  course  of  the  Shannon.  The 
Lough  is  twenty-three  miles  long,  and  varies  from  two  to  six  in 
breadth.  It  is  bordered  by  magnificent  mountains,  and  contains 
many  islands,  the  whole  forming  one  of  the  grandest  and  most 
beautiful  views  in  Ireland. 

The  Shannon  below  Limerick  is  a  broad  and  noble  stream,  and 
should  the  steamers  run  from  the  city  direct  to  Kilrush,  the 
tourist  will  be  able  to  enjoy  the  fine  river  scenery  by  this  route. 
A  more  expeditious  way  of  reaching  Kilrush  is  by  rail  from 
Limerick  to  Foynes.  At  the  latter  place  a  steamer,  in  connection 
with  the  train,  carries  passengers  across  to  Kilrush. 

Passing  down  the  river,  many  beautiful  demesnes  and  old 
ruins  are  seen.  On  the  Clare  side  is  the  broad  estuary  of  the 
river  Fergus,  which  runs  past  Clare  Castle  and  Ennis,  the  assize 
town  of  the  county.  Ennis  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre,  of  the 
county,  and  is  a  place  of  some  importance,  possessing  fine  ruins. 
On  the  Limerick  side,  near  this  point,  the  river  Deel,  which  flows 
downward  from  Askeaton,  loses  itself  in  the  Shannon.  This  town 
is  famous  for  the  ruins  of  its  abbey.  Foynes  is  next  reached,  with 
its  fine  harbour,  having  a  depth  of  50  feet  at  low  water.  It  was 
proposed  to   make    this   place   a    station   for   the   American    mail- 

G 


82  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

packets  ;  the  navigation  of  the  Shannon  being  perfectly  open  from 
the  mouth  of  the  river  to  this  harbour.  After  passing  the  town 
of  Glin  and  its  fine  Castle,  the  steamer  arrives  at  Tarbert,  where 
there  is  a  capacious  landing-pier  with  a  lighthouse. 

From  Tarbert  the  steamer  crosses  to  Kilrush.      About  one  mile 
off  the  shore  of  the  latter  place  lies  the  far-famed  Scattery  Island, 
on  which  stands  one  of  the  finest  of  the  Irish  Round  Towers,  and 
the   ruins   of  "  seven    churches."       "  During    the   early    ages    of 
Christianity  this  island  was  one  of  the  most  celebrated  places   of 
religious  resort  in  Ireland,  a  monastery  having  been  founded  here 
in  the  sixth  century  by  St.   Senanus.      Some  writers  state  that 
this  monastery  was  founded  by  the  great  apostle,  St.  Patrick,  who 
placed  it  under  the  superintendence  of  his  illustrious  contemporary. 
So  celebrated  was  the   character    for  sanctity    which    this    place 
acquired,  that  large  numbers  of  monks  and  holy  men   came  from 
Rome  to  place  themselves  under  the  protection  of  St.  Senanus,  who 
erected  seven  churches  on  the  island  for  his  enlarged  community, 
and  such  was  the  seclusion  and  austerity  in  which  they  lived,  that 
no   female  was   permitted  to  land  upon  the  island."    St.  Senanus 
is  said  to  have  refused  to  receive  even  St.  Camera,  whom  an  angel 
had   taken   to  the  island,  for   the  express  purpose  of  introducing 
her  to  him.      The  fame  of  the  austere  saint  has  been  extended  far 
beyond  his  native  isle  by  one  of  Moore's  melodies,  entitled,  "  St. 
Senanus  and  the  Lady"  : — 

"  *  Ah !  haste  and  leave  this  sacred  isle, 
Unholy  bark,  ere  morning  smile, 
For  on  thy  deck,  though  dark  it  be, 

A  female  form  I  see ; 
And  I  have  sworn  this  sainted  sod 
Shall  ne'er  by  woman's  feet  be  trod.' 


MUNSTER.  83 

"  '  0  father,  send  not  hence  my  hark ; 
Through  wintry  winds,  o'er  hillows  dark, 
I  come  with  humhle  heart  to  share 
Thy  morn  and  evening  prayer ; 
Nor  mine  the  feet,  oh !  holy  saint, 
The  brightness  of  thy  sod  to  taint.' 

"  The  lady's  prayer  Senanus  spurn' d, 
The  wind  blew  fresh,  and  the  bark  return' d ; 
But  legends  hint,  that  had  the  maid 

Till  morning's  light  delay' d, 
And  given  the  saint  one  rosy  smile, 
She  ne'er  had  left  his  lonely  isle." 

Kilrusli  is  a  pretty  and  favourite  summer  resort,  affording  fine 
views  of  the  Shannon,  which  is  here  eight  miles  broad.  It  is 
eight  miles  from  Kilkee,  on  Moore  Bay,  formerly  a  mere  fishing 
village,  but  now  a  fashionable  watering-place.  The  town,  which 
commands  a  fine  view  of  the  bay,  is  built  close  to  the  sea,  and  is 
remarkable  for  its  cleanliness.  The  beach  presents  a  smooth, 
white,  sandy  surface,  nearly  a  mile  in  extent,  where  visitors  can 
enjoy  the  exhilarating  breeze  from  the  wide  Atlantic. 

Great  as  are  the  attractions  of  Kilkee  as  a  bathing-place,  the 
town  owes  its  chief  popularity  to  the  cliff  scenery  and  natural 
curiosities  of  the  coast  in  the  neighbourhood.  These  are  un- 
rivalled in  the  kingdom.  Among  them  are  the  Amphitheatre, 
which  takes  its  name  from  its  nearly  circular  form,  and  the 
manner  in  which  the  projecting  shelves  of  rock  are  formed,  resem- 
bling as  they  do  the  seats  in  the  area  of  a  building  of  this  descrip- 
tion ;  the  Diamond  Rocks,  so  called  from  the  crystals  which  are 
found  in  their  veins  ;  the  Cave  ;  the  Puffing  Cavern  ;  and  the 
celebrated  Ross  Bridges. 

The  Cave  of  Kilkee  is  about  two  miles  from  the  town.  In 
favourable  weather  the  cavern  may  be  entered  by  a  small  boat. 
The  arched  entrance  is  about  60  feet  in  height,  which  diminishes 

G   2 


84  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

to  30  feet  on  penetrating  about  300  feet  into  the  cave.  The  roof 
presents  a  beautiful  variety  of  metallic  tinges,  from  the  mineral 
substances  held  in  solution  by  the  water,  which  continually  drops 
from  the  top,  giving  increased  effect  to  the  light  thrown  in  at  the 
entrance,  which  forms  a  striking  contrast  with  the  darkness  at  the 
upper  end. 

The  Puffing  Rock  is  about  50  feet  high  and  30  feet  square,  and 
has  an  opening  down  through  the  middle  to  a  large  chamber 
beneath  ;  and  when  the  breakers  are  driven  in  by  strong  wind 
and  tide,  after  filling  the  lower  space,  the  water  is  spouted 
up  through  the  aperture  like  graceful  feathery  plumes,  and  descend- 
ing in  mist,  produces,  when  the  sun  shines  brightly,  a  most  vivid 
and  beautiful  iris. 

About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  Puffing  Cavern  are  the  re- 
markable Ross  Bridges.  These  two  curious  and  picturesque  objects 
extend  across  a  natural  canal  or  inlet,  which  appears  as  if  cut  out 
of  the  solid  rock,  and  varies  from  50  to  60  feet  in  breadth,  and 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length.  When  the  tide  is  at  half-flow, 
the  rushing  waves  of  the  Atlantic  pass  over  the  layers  of  flat  rocks 
which  form  the  bed  of  the  channel,  sweeping  beneath  the  lower 
rocky  bridge,  and  dashing  upward,  pass  under  the  still  higher  and 
larger  arch  of  the  second  bridge.  In  receding,  the  waves  produce 
various  picturesque  cascades  in  the  worn  and  hollowed  caves  on 
either  sides  of  the  foaming  channel.  These  bridges,  although  of 
the  same  geological  formation,  are  quite  different  in  their  general 
outlines.  That  which  is  nearest  to  the  upper  end  of  the  canal, 
appears  as  if  cut  out  of  the  solid  rock,  and  consists  of  a  single 
arch  of  fine  proportions.  The  span  of  the  arch  is  about  70  feet, 
the  height  from  the  bottom  of  the  rocky  valley  which  it  crosses  is 


MUNSTER.  85 

5  0  feet,  the  thickness  of  the  crown  1 8  feet,  and  the  width  of  the 
grassy  roadway  on  the  top  30  feet.  The  other  bridge  is  still  more 
remarkable,  the  roadway  being  perfectly  level,  both  on  the  upper 
and  under  surfaces  ;  and  hence  the  interest  it  excites  in  the  mind 
of  the  scientific  observer,  as  to  how  so  great  a  mass  can  be  sup- 
ported without  a  curve  underneath.  The  span  of  this  arch  is 
about  45  feet,  the  thickness  of  the  crown  9  feet,  and  the  width  of 
the  rocky  pathway  on  the  top  30  feet.  When  the  tide  is  out,  the 
canal  or  rocky  ravine  may  be  traversed,  and  the  under  sides  of 
the  bridges  inspected. 

North  of  Kilkee  the  whole  of  the  iron-bound  shore  of  the  county 
of  Clare,  with  its  bays  and  giant  cliffs,  extends  to  Galway  Bay. 
North  of  Liscannor  Bay  is  the  promontory  of  Hag's  Head,  in  the 
central  part  of  which  are  the  well-known  Cliffs  of  Moher,  which 
extend  for  two  or  three  miles  in  length,  and  rise  at  one  part 
to  a  height  of  700  feet  above  the  sea  as  a  perpendicular  wall. 
There  are  few  districts  in  Ireland  where  the  lover  of  cliff  scenery, 
or  the  geologist,  will  derive  more  pleasure  than  in  strolling  along 
the  coast  of  Clare. 


PART  III.— ULSTEE. 


FERMANAGH,  DONEGAL,  LONDONDERRY,  ANTRIM,  AND 

ARMAGH. 


FERMANAGH,  DONEGAL,  AND  LONDONDERRY. 

The  North  of  Ireland — Enniskillen — Lough  Erne :  its  Islands,  Ruins,  and  general 
features — County  Fermanagh — Ballyshannon — The  Salmon -leap — Bundoran — 
County  Donegal — Kilharron  Castle — The  "Pullins"  Gap — Lough  Derg:  Station 
Island  and  St.  Patrick's  Purgatory — Donegal  Town,  Castle,  and  Abbey — Mount 
Charles — Lough  Esk — Pass  of  Barnes — Lough  Mourne — Curious  method  of  pike- 
fishing — Stranorlar  to  Strahane — Londonderry — Coleraine. 

nnHE  eastern  and  southern  portions  of  Ireland,  comprising  tlie 
scenery  of  Wicklow  and  the  Lakes  of  Killarney,  have  been 
visited  and  briefly  described  ;  the  scenery  of  the  Shannon  has  also 
been  noticed.  It  is  noAV  proposed  to  run  through  the  north 
of  Ireland,  which,  in  addition  to  the  Giant's  Causeway,  possesses 
picturesque  attractions  equal  to  those  already  pictured.  In  these 
slight  sketches,  moving  as  we  do,  rapidly  from  point  to  point, 
the  difficulty  is  to  make  selection  among  so  many  subjects  of 
attraction,  due  regard  being  paid  to  the  limits  of  the  work. 

The  tourist  whose  opportunities  only  permit  him  to  visit  the 
Giant's  Causeway  and  the  coast  of  Antrim,  will  proceed  from 
Dublin  direct  to  Belfast,  thence  by  the  Northern  Counties  Railway 
to  Portrush  ; .  while  those  who  have  time  at  command,  may  make  a 
pleasant  and  profitable  tour  to  Enniskillen  and  Lough  Erne,  then  re 


90  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

diverging  to  the  maritime  county  of  Donegal,  and  then  proceed- 
ing to  the  Giant's  Causeway  through  Londonderry  and  Coleraine, 
returning  by  way  of  Belfast.  By  this  route  the  tourist  will  get  a 
glimpse  of  most  of  the  northern  counties. 

The  traveller  intending  to  make  the  above  trip  proceeds  from 
Dublin  to  Mullingar,  a  place  of  some  importance,  and  the  assize 
town  of  the  county  Westmeath.  The  line  here  diverges  to  Cavan, 
thence  to  Enniskillen.  This  is  the  chief  town  in  the  county  Fer- 
managh. It  is  charmingly  situated  on  an  island  formed  by  the  wind- 
ings of  the  river  or  strait  which  connects  the  Upper  and  Lower 
Loughs  Erne.  The  town  is  connected  with  the  mainland  by  two 
bridges,  and  consists  principally  of  one  long  street,  running  north 
and  south.  The  Protestant  church  is  a  very  fine  building.  The  bar- 
racks, which  are  large  and  commodious,  and  suited  to  accommodate 
artillery  and  infantry,  are  situated  in  the  western  part  of  the  town. 

The  principal  feature  in  the  county  Fermanagh  is  the  unrivalled 
scenery  of  Lough  Erne,  the  lake  next  in  beauty  to  Killarney. 
Properly  speaking,  it  may  be  said  to  consist  of  two  lakes  :  the 
Upper  Lake  being  about  twelve  miles  in  length  and  four  and  a 
half  in  breadth,  and  the  Lower  Lake  being  nearly  twenty  miles  in 
length  and  about  seven  miles  in  its  greatest  breadth.  Both  are 
studded  with  numerous  islands,  the  Upper  containing  as  many  as 
one  hundred  and  nine,  and  the  Lower  ninety.  Of  these  islands, 
Devenish,  situated  about  two  miles  from  Enniskillen,  in  the  entrance 
to  the  Lower  Lake,  is  the  most  deserving  of  a  visit.  It  contains 
between  seventy  and  eighty  acres  of  remarkably  fertile  land.  Here 
are  the  ruins  of  several  ancient  churches  and  a  Round  Tower,  one 
of  the  most  perfect  and  beautiful  in  Ireland.  These  buildings 
have  been  thus  described  : — 


ULSTER.  91 

"  Of  the  monastic  remains,  that  called  the  '  Upper  Church  ' 
is  the  most  perfect  and  the  most  modern,  or  probably  has  been  re- 
edified  at  a  later  period.  The  basement  story  of  the  tower  is 
groined,  and  in  the  ceiling  are  two  apertures,  coeval  with  the 
building,  through  which  bell-ropes  were  formerly  passed.  A  small 
pointed  doorway  leads  to  a  spiral  staircase,  by  which  the  battle- 
ments of  the  tower  are  reached.  The  masonry  —  sculpture  it 
might  be  called — is  very  remarkable  :  the  angles  of  the  archi- 
traves being  delicately  fluted,  and  finished  equally  at  top  as  at 
bottom,  produce  an  effect  both  light  and  graceful.  At  the  height 
of  5  feet  from  the  floor,  and  adjoining  the  entrance  to  the  belfry, 
is  a  mural  tablet  bearing  an  inscription  in  ancient  characters. 
There  is  a  second  doorway  in  the  south  wall,  with  an  ornamental 
architrave,  above  which,  in  a  canopied  niche,  were  the  arms  of  the 
founder,  or  of  some  benefactor  to  the  priory.  The  stone  used  in 
building  of  the  tower  is  a  beautiful  grey  limestone,  susceptible  of 
a  high  polish  ;  one  of  the  varieties  found  in  the  district  adjoining 
the  lake.  The  Nunnery,  or  Lower  Church,  according  to  the  local 
nomenclature,  is  of  a  more  ancient  date  than  the  priory,  and  much 
more  dilapidated.  The  eastern  window,  still  perfect,  is  rudely 
executed,  and  divided  into  three  compartments,  with  lancet  heads, 
and  banded  on  the  inside  ;  and  in  the  southern  wall  are  two 
circular-headed  windows  of  later  construction,  illuminating  a 
baptistry  just  below  them.  The  length  of  the  church  is  86  feet,  a 
fact  that  in  a  few  years  more  must  be  gathered  exclusively  from 
the  records  of  its  fate.  The  cell  or  crypt  of  the  titutar  saint  is 
wholly  unroofed  ;  the  side-walls  and  gable  indicate  the  strength  of 
the  cement  used  in  the  erection  ;  and  from  the  remnants  of  the 
stone    roof   yet  visible,   the  ceiling  appears  to  have  been   coved 


92  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

and    separated   by   a  void   from  an    exterior  angular  roof,  also  of 
stone,  in  the  manner  of  St.  Kevin's  Kitchen,  at  Glendalough." 

The  Cemetery  of  the  ancient  religious  establishment  has  long 
been  regarded  with  peculiar  veneration  by  the  peasantry  ;  and  the 
dead  are  brought  from  distant  places  to  be  interred  in  this  holy 
spot,  as  at  Scattery  and  Glendalough.  The  point  at  which  the 
mourners  embark  for  the  isle  is  still  known  as  Portora — "  the 
Port  of  Lamentation." 

The  Round  Tower,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  county,  stands  not 
far  from  the  principal  group  of  ruins.  "It  is  exactly  circular, 
69  feet  high  to  the  conical  converging  at  the  top,  which  has  been 
restored,  and  is  1 5  feet  more ;  it  is  4  8  feet  in  circumference,  and  the 
walls  are  3  feet  5  inches  thick ;  thus  the  inside  is  only  9  feet  2  inches 
in  diameter,  besides  the  door,  which  is  elevated  9  feet  above  the 
ground  ;  there  are  seven  square  holes  to  admit  the  light.  The 
whole  tower  is  very  neatly  built  with  stones  of  about  a  foot  square, 
with  scarcely  any  cement  or  mortar,  and  the  inside  is  almost  as 
smooth  as  a  gun-barrel."  The  tower  has  a  singular  ornamental 
sculptured  band  of  curious  design. 

Lower  Lough  Erne  may  be  conveniently  visited  from  Ennis- 
killen.  This  great  lake,  one  of  the  most  extensive  and  beautiful 
sheets  of  water  in  the  county,  affords  ample  material  for  interest 
to  the  artist,  the  antiquary,  and  naturalist,  Its  numerous  islands, 
of  all  dimensions,  present  charming  bits  of  sylvan  loveliness  ; 
while  venerable  ruins  add  dignity  and  solemn  grandeur  to  the 
scene.  Salmon,  trout,  pike,  and  eels,  are  found  in  various 
parts  of  the  lake;  and  herons  and  other  aquatic  fowl  abound 
among  the  islands.  Many  fine  mansions  are  situated  in  the 
neighbourhood. 


'  '         :' 


©sr 


ULSTER.  g3 

The  lake  may  be  traversed  from  end  to  end  by  steamer  in  two 
or  three  hours,  or  from  near  Enniskillen  to  Belleek ;  or  the  excur- 
sion may  be  made  in  a  rowing  boat,  affording  opportunity 
for  more  leisurely  inspection.  To  those  who  prefer  land  to  water, 
the  trip  to  Belleek  may  be  made  by  car  or  rail  down  the  north  side 
of  the  Lough,  one  of  the  finest  drives  in  the  island.  The  next 
station  to  Belleek  is  Bally  shannon,  in  the  county  of  Donegal,  which 
county  we  shall  next  briefly  visit. 

Before  leaving  Fermanagh  we  may  intimate  that  the  county  was 
anciently  called  the  Country  of  the  Lakes,  and  also  the  Country  of 
the  Waters.  It  was  divided  into  two  great  portions,  one  of  which 
was  ruled  over  by  the  McManuses,  and  the  other  by  the  Maguires. 
The  latter  family  was  so  powerful,  that  the  greater  part  of  the 
county  was  for  several  centuries  known  as  McGuire's  country. 
It  was  first  made  shire  ground  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  and 
was  one  of  .the  six  counties  which  became  forfeited  to  the 
crown  by  the  flight  of  the  Earls  of  Tyrone  and  Tyrconnel. 
Fermanagh  is  bounded  on  the  east  by  Monaghan  and  Tyrone, 
on  the  north  by  Tyrone  and  Donegal,  on  the  west  by  Donegal  and 
Leitrim,  and  on  the  south  by  Cavan. 

Ballyshannon  is  a  seaport  town,  beautifully  situated  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  Erne,  which  flows  through  the  centre  of  the 
town  beneath  a  bridge  of  fourteen  arches.  Some  distance  below 
this  bridge  is  the  far-famed  Salmon-leap,  —  a  magnificent  fall, 
formed  by  the  whole  body  of  the  river  rushing  over  a  ledge  of 
rock,  which  here  crosses  the  entire  river,  a  breadth  of  about 
150  feet.  The  water  descends  with  astonishing  rapidity  and  inces- 
sant roar,  from  a  height  of  1 6  feet,  into  the  deep  basin  which  may 
be  said  to  form  the  head  of  the  harbour.       In  the  season   it    is   an 


94  SCENERF  IN  IRELAND. 

interesting  sight  to  see  the  salmon  throwing  themselves  up  the 
cascade  in  their  attempts  to  ascend  stream,  sometimes  unfortu- 
nately striking  with  great  force  against  the  overhanging  crags. 
This  fall,  although  a  very  beautiful  bit  of  scenery,  is  an  effectual 
barrier  to  the  navigation  of  the  river.  From  an  elevation  north 
of  the  cascade,  and  near  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  castle  of  the 
O'Donnels,  a  good  view  is  obtained  of  the  Salmon-leap,  of  Waltown 
Castle,  and  of  the  entrance  to  the  harbour. 

The  town  of  Ballyshannon  is  a  comfortable  and  thriving  place, 
with  an  air  of  business  about  it.  The  imports  consists  of  timber, 
coal,  slates,  groceries,  and  English  manufactured  goods  ;  and  the 
exports  principally  of  corn  and  salmon.  Its  salmon  fisheries  are 
valuable,  large  quantities  being  taken,  and  the  quality  and 
flavour  highly  esteemed.  The  town  is  well  situated  in  the  centre 
of  a  fertile  district,  and  the  neighbourhood  contains  more  than  an 
averasre  share  of  mineral  wealth. 

About  four  miles  from  Ballyshannon  is  the  pretty  village  of 
Bundoran.  It  is  much  frequented  for  sea-bathing,  and  is  exceed- 
ingly healthy  ;  the  wide  Atlantic  immediately  facing  it,  and  a 
range  of  mountains  sheltering  it  from  inclement  winds.  The 
cliffs  form  a  delightful  promenade,  while  numerous  sheltered  nooks 
on  the  beach  afford  admirable  convenience  for  bathers  of  both 
sexes.  In  the  season  this  watering-place  is  much  resorted  to  by 
the  people  of  the  adjoining  counties,  for  whose  accommodation 
some  excellent  hotels  have  been  erected.  There  are  also  numerous 
private  dwellings  appropriated  to  the  use  of  visitors,  according  to 
their  varying  needs  or  means. 

The  railway  by  which  we  have  diverged  westward  ends  at  Bun- 
doran ;  the  tourist  with  little  time   to  spare  will  probably  retrace 


ULSTER.  95 

his  steps  by  the  same  route.  We  propose  to  vary  the  journey  by 
going  from  Ballyshannon  to  Donegal,  thence  through  Barnesmore 
Gap — one  of  the  most  magnificent  defiles  in  Ireland — to  Stran- 
orlar,  here  rejoining  the  main  line  by  taking  the  Finn  Valley 
rail  to  Strabane,  and  so  on  to  the  Giant's  Causeway  by  London- 
derry and  Coleraine. 

At  present  we  have  but  just  touched  the  borders  of  the  mari- 
time county  of  Donegal.  Though  by  no  means  so  frequently 
visited  by  tourists  as  other  parts  of  Ireland,  the  county  is  second 
to  none  in  the  wildness  of  its  scenery.  Its  surface  is  principally 
comprised  of  mountain,  lake,  river,  and  falls,  associated  with  end- 
less fairy  tales  and  traditions.  The  naturalist  and  geologist  have 
long  been  familiar  with  its  remarkable  coast  line,  but  the  general 
tourist  remained  till  lately  a  stranger  in  this  region.  The  for- 
mation of  the  above-noticed  branch  lines,  viz.  the  Bundoran 
junction  and  the  Finn  Valley  line,  has  opened  up  the  county 
in  such  a  way  that  the  principal  features  of  its  scenery  may 
be  seen  in  a  few  days,  starting  either  from  the  north  or  south. 
The  traveller  of  course  will  not  find  the  same  hotel  accommo- 
dation or  coach  routes  here  as  in  the  more  populous  parts  of  the 
island. 

Leaving  Ballyshannon,  a  few  miles  to  the  left,  on  a  jutting  crag 
overlooking  Donegal  Bay  is  the  venerable  ruin  of  Kilbarron  Castle, 
a  stronghold  of  the  O'Clerys,  once  powerful  chiefs  of  the  district, 
and  where  the  celebrated  "  Annals  of  the  Four  Masters  "  is  said  to 
have  been  composed.  Not  far  from  this  relic  is  a  natural  curiosity 
called  "  The  Pullins,"  which  has  been  thus  described  by  Mr.  S.  C. 
Hall  : — "  It  is  formed  by  the  course  of  a  mountain  torrent,  which 
runs  for  nearly  a  mile  through  a  most  singularly  picturesque  ravine, 


96  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

presenting  to  view,  in  succession,  a  series  of  cascades,  caves,  wild 
cliffs,  huge  shattered  rocks,  amidst  a  profusion  of  the  richest  and 
most  varied  ferns,  and  every  description  of  mountain  plants.      The 
whole  course  of  the  river  is  shaded  by  a  mass  of  deep  wood,  which 
greatly  enhances  the  effect  of  the  scenery.      A  solid  bed  of  lime- 
stone seems  to  have   been  cleft,  from   30  to   40  feet  in  depth  ; 
and  in  this  narrow  fissure,  turning  often  at  a  very  acute  angle, 
the  river  foams  along,  frequently  entirely  disappearing  in  caves, 
where  its  course  passes  under  and  through  the  rock  for  a  con- 
siderable space.       In   one   of  these  caves,    the   regularly  formed 
arched  roof,  above    50   feet  span,   and  above  one  hundred  yards 
long,  presents  one  of  the  wildest  representations  imaginable  of  the 
lawless  distiller's  haunt,  or  the  outlaw's  refuge.       A  dropping-well 
of  the  purest  water  is  found  in  a  basin  of  the  rock  within,  and 
a  succession  of  winding  caves,  forming  numerous  outlets,  afford 
opportunities  of  escape  or   concealment   on  all  sides.      Often  the 
course  of  the  river  is  obliterated  by  masses  of  rock  piled  over  each 
other  in  the  most  fantastic  manner,  and  the  existence  of  the  stream 
is  only  known  by  a  hoarse  murmur  deep  below  the  place  on  which 
the  spectator  stands.       After  a  course  again  of  half  a  mile  through 
a   flat  meadow,  the   river   reassumes   its   wild  character,  but  with 
increased   magnificence   of  scenery.      The  river  suddenly  descends 
about    60   feet   in  a   deep   and  dark   chasm,   the  rocks    actually 
meeting '  overhead,  whilst  a  precipitous  wall  of  rock  bounds  either 
side  ;    it    falls  at  once  nearly   20    feet  in    an    unbroken    stream 
with  a  roar  which  makes  the  solid  wall   around  absolutely  quake. 
It  emerges  under  a  narrow  natural  bridge  of  rock  of  the  most  per- 
fect Gothic  mould,  and  turning  suddenly,  a  vista  of  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  appears  opening  upon  the  sea  in  the  distance,  and   on   either 


ULSTER. 


97 


side  a  perpendicular  wall  of  rock,  clothed  with  the  richest  ivy, 
extends  in  a  perfectly  straight  line  to  the  village  of  Ballintra,  the 
river  occupying  the  entire  space  between  these  curious  walls.  A 
description  can  but  faintly  convey  the  extraordinary  character  of 
these  lovely  scenes,  nor  can  the  artist  represent  their  singular 
beauties." 

To  the  right,  on  the  verge  of  County  Tyrone,  lies   the   famous 
Lough   Derg,    the  largest  of  the  somewhat  numerous  but   small 
lakes  of  the  county.      It  is  a  wild,  romantic  sheet  of  water,  about 
six  miles  in  breadth  and  four  in  width,  surrounded  on  all  sides  by 
bleak  and  barren  hills.      The  Lough  gained  its  notoriety  from  the 
tradition  that  one  of  its  islands  contained  St.  Patrick's  Purgatory. 
This  imaginary  favoured  spot  is  called  Station  Island,  which  does 
not  exceed  half  an  acre  ;  yet  in  this  confined  space  many  hundreds 
congregated  in  the  hottest  time  of  the  year.      When  Mr.  Inglis 
visited  the  place,  many  years  ago,  he  calculated    that  there  could 
not  have    been    fewer   than  two  thousand  persons  upon  a    spot 
not  five  hundred  yards  long,   and  not  half  that  breadth.       The 
"  station"  commenced  on  the  1st  of  June,  and  continued  till  the 
loth  of  August ;    and  from  the  same  authority  we  learn,  that  the 
"  whole   number   of  pilgrims    visiting   the   Lough   would  amount, 
during  the  season,  to  above  nineteen  thousand,  the  great   majority 
being  women  ;  many  of  them  travelling  a  distance  of  two  hundred 
miles  to  arrive  at  the  scene  of  their  '  devotions  ; '      this  too  at 
a   period    of  the  year  when  labour  was  particularly  needful  and 
profitable  !     Of  course,  this  is  an  affair  of  the  long  past,  although 
many  humble  penitents    still    pay  their    devotions  to  this    cele- 
brated shrine  during  the  summer  months.      It  should  be  added, 
however,  that  the  Roman  Catholic  clergy  universally  condemn  the 

H 


9 8  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

practice.  We  quote  the  following  particulars  of  this  singular 
tradition  : — 

"  The  tradition  was,  that  St.  Patrick  had  prevailed  on  God  to 
place  the  entrance  to  purgatory  in  Ireland,  that  the  unbelievers 
might  the  more  readily  be  convinced  of  the  immortality  of  the 
soul  and  of  the  sufferings  that  awaited  the  wicked  after  death."  A 
few  monks,  according  to  Boate,  an  old  Irish  writer,  dwelt  near 
the  cavern  that  represented  the  entrance.  "  Whoever  came  to 
the  island  with  the  intention  of  descending  into  the  cavern  and 
examining  its  wonders,  had  to  prepare  himself  by  long  vigils,  fasts, 
and  j>rayers,  to  strengthen  him,  as  we  are  told,  for  his  danger- 
ous expedition,  but  in  reality,  by  reducing  his  bodily  strength, 
to  make  his  imagination  more  ready  to  receive  the  impressions 
which  it  was  thought  desirable  to  leave  upon  his  mind.  He 
was  then  let  down  into  the  cavern,  whence,  after  an  interval 
of  several  hours,  he  was  drawn  up  again  half  dead;  and  when  he 
recovered  his  senses,  mingling  the  wild  dreams  of  his  own 
imagination  with  what  the  monks  had  told  him,  he  seldom 
failed  to  tell  the  most  marvellous  tales  of  the  place  for  the 
remainder  of  his  life.  It  was  not  till  the  reign  of  James  II. 
that  the  monks  were  driven  away  from  the  place,  and  the 
mystery  of  the  dark  cavern  dissolved." 

Resuming  our  route,  Donegal  would  be  reached  in  about  thirteen 
miles  from  Ballyshannon  by  the  direct  road,  which  passes  through 
a  pleasant  district, 

The  small  maritime  town  of  Donegal  is  situated  on  the  river 
Esk,  which,  flowing  from  Lough  Esk, — about  three  miles  dis- 
tant,— discharges  itself  into  the  harbour.  The  town  is  clean 
and  business-like,  possessing  a   spacious  market-place,    called   the 


©©•£■  (CA§1%3E, 


ULSTER.  99 

Diamond,  which  is  of  triangular  shape.  In  the  vicinity  is  the 
fine  old  Castle  of  Donegal,  once  the  seat  of  the  O'Donnells, 
chiefs  of  Tyrconnell.  It  stands  close  to  the  river  Esk,  above 
the  bridge,  and  is  in  tolerable  preservation.  The  Castle  was  built 
in  the  thirteenth  century,  and  combined  massive  strength  with 
considerable  domestic  accommodation  and  comfort.  Soon  after  the 
wars  of  1641  the  structure  was  abandoned,  and  gradually  became 
a  ruin.  "  Many  of  the  arches,  some  of  which  are  Gothic,  and  one 
of  them  a  rare  specimen  of  the  Byzantine  style,  are  still  entire  ; 
and  the  windows,  which  are  of  square  form,  with  framings  of  stone, 
are  in  tolerable  preservation.  In  the  principal  apartment  on  the 
second  story  is  a  large  and  grand  chimney-piece,  enriched  with 
fine  carving,  representing  various  fanciful  devices,  and  orna- 
mented with  rosettes."  This  interesting  ruin  is  regarded  with 
jDeculiar  veneration  by  the  countrymen  of  the  chivalrous  chiefs  of 
Tyrconnell. 

Donegal  possesses  another  remain  of  antiquity,  which  Sir. 
Lacy  thus  describes  : — "  About  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  town 
in  another  direction,  and  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Esk,  as  it  flows 
onward  to  the  bay,  are  situated  the  remains  of  the  monastery, 
founded  in  the  year  1474,  for  Friars  of  the  Observantine  Order,  by 
Hugh  O'Donnell,  son  of  the  Prince  of  Tryconnell,  and  by  his  wife, 
Fiongala,  daughter  of  O'Brien,  Prince  of  Thomond.  This  house 
has  been  rendered  particularly  famous  as  being  the  convent  where- 
in (or  in  the  Castle  of  Kilbarron)  were  compiled  the  annals  of 
Donegal,  generally  called  the  'Annals  of  the  Four  Masters.' 
Several  portions  of  this  renowned  abbey  are  spread  over  the  sur- 
rounding churchyard,  the  walls  in  general  being  very  thick,  and 
composed  of  an  enduring  limestone.      The   sides   and   arch  of  the 

H  2 


ioo  SCENERF  IN  IRELAND. 

eastern  or  grand  chancel  window,  which  occupied  the  entire  end  of 
the  church,  are  still  remaining,  and  afford  a  tolerably  accurate 
notion  of  what  this  remarkable  place  was  in  former  days.  Portions 
of  the  side  walls  and  western  gable  are  also  standing,  as  well  as 
those  of  the  north  transej)t.  The  south  gable  of  what  may  have 
been  an  extensive  chapel,  with  its  fine  Gothic  window,  is  still 
entire,  and  stands  apart  from  the  church  already  mentioned.  On 
the  north  side  of  the  ruins  is  a  row  of  arches,  supported  by 
coupled  columns,  which  may  be  supposed  to  have  formed  portions 
of  the  cloisters.  Some  of  the  altar  niches  are  to  be  seen  in  the 
principal  ruin,  and  many  inscriptional  stones,  partially  worn,  so  as 
to  obliterate  the  lettering  on  several  parts  of  them.  This  very  in- 
teresting remnant  of  former  times  is  finely  situated  above  the  deep 
waters  which  may  be  considered  as  forming  the  head  of  the 
harbour,  and  must,  in  its  palmy  days  of  piety  and  grandeur,  have 
derived  no  small  advantage  from  its  admirable  position  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  commerce  and  navigation,  whereby  most  of  the 
necessaries  and  many  of  the  luxuries  of  life  were  conveyed  up  to 
its  very  walls.  The  several  islands  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  with 
the  neat  and  fanciful  villas  by  which  they  are  enriched  and  beauti- 
fied, can  be  seen  to  great  advantage  from  the  cemetery  in  which 
the  ruins  are  situated." 

Three  miles  west  of  Donegal  lies  the  pleasant  little  village  of 
Mount  Charles.  From  the  summit  of  the  mount  from  which  it 
takes  its  name,  a  fine  panorama  of  the  country  may  be  enjoyed, 
including  portions  of  six  or  seven  counties.  The  road  gradually 
ascends  until  the  tourist  reaches  the  picturesque  Lough  Esk. 
Fine  fishing  can  be  had  in  this  lake,  as  it  abounds  in  trout  and 
salmon.      A  short   distance   from   its   upper  shores    the   "  Pass   of 


ULSTER.  i  oi 

Barnes  "  is  entered — a  gap  formed  in  the  lofty  Barnesmore  Moun- 
tains, the  inhospitable  summits  of  which  rise  in  barren  grandeur  a 
short  distance  from  each  other.  Before  entering  this  mountain 
glen  the  visitor  will  enjoy  the  prospect  presented  before  him,  of 
the  rich  and  fertile  valley  through  which  he  has  been  travelling. 

Barnesmore  Pass  is  a  deep  and  wild  defile  about  four  miles  long, 
walled  in  by  mountains  in  some  places  1,700  feet  high.  Through- 
out its  course  rushes  a  rapid  river,  foaming  over  enormous  masses 
of  rock,  which  every  now  and  then  divert  its  passage,  forcing  it  into 
a  channel  that,  after  taking  a  circuitous  route,  again  progresses 
onwards  by  the  side  of  the  traveller.  No  human  habitation  is  met 
with,  nor  any  living  creature,  save,  perhaps,  a  few  sheep  that,  in  the 
summer  and  autumn  season,  crop  the  scanty  herbage  that  is  found 
upon  the  bases  of  the  mountains.  In  the  winter  season  the  whole 
region  is  deserted,  as  no  living  thing  could  find  the  means  of 
existing. 

Emerging  from  the  Pass,  the  tourist  will  enter  a  district  where 
the  mountains,  though  less  elevated,  are  still  wild  and  spreading. 
After  passing  over  a  couple  of  miles  of  bog-land,  Lough  Mourne  is 
reached,  which  is  about  a  mile  in  length,  and  abounds  in  pike. 
Mr.  Lacy  gives  us  the  following  curious  bit  of  angling  information  : 
— "  An  ingenious  method  has  been  adopted  for  capturing  these 
ravenous  creatures,  consisting  of  lines  attached  to  a  log  of  wood, 
the  hooks  of  which  are  baited  with  horseflesh  or  some  such  sub- 
stance. Dogs,  trained  for  the  purpose,  are  at  stated  periods  sent 
forth,  which  at  once  proceed  in  search  of  the  logs,  that  are  left  to 
drift  as  circumstances  may  direct,  and  when  they  have  dragged 
them  to  the  shore,  return  to  the  houses  of  their  respective  owners 
without  in  any  manner  meddling  with  the  fish.      It  is  said  that 


ioz  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

these  dogs  are  lazy  and  indolent,  and  totally  unfit  for  any  other 


use. 


From  Lousrh  Mourne,  the  traveller  will  soon  leave  the  extreme 
verge  of  the  Barnesmore  range  of  mountains,  and  arrive  at  the 
village  of  Ballibofey.  Crossing  the  river  Finn,  Stranorlar  is  next 
reached,  where  we  propose  taking  the  rail  to  Strabane,  and  pro- 
ceeding to  Londonderry.  Of  the  county  of  the  same  name  we 
shall  do  little  more  than  pass  through  on  our  way  to  the  Giant's 
Causeway. 

The  city  of  Londonderry  is  finely  situated  on  the  river  Foyle, 
which  is  crossed  by  two  bridges  :  a  new  one  of  iron,  and  a  fine 
wooden  bridge.  The  latter  was  built  by  an  American,  Mr.  Lemuel 
Cox,  a  native  of  Boston,  between  the  years  1789  and  1791,  at  the 
cost  of  £16,294.  Its  length  is  1,068  feet,  and  breadth  40  feet. 
The  city  walls  are  in  good  preservation,  and  form  a  most  agreeable 
promenade.  There  were  six  gates  :  the  Bishop's  Gate  and  Ship- 
quay  Gate  are  the  most  remarkable.  Among  the  most  interesting 
objects  in  the  town  is  the  fine  statue  of  the  celebrated  governor, 
George  Walker,  under  whose  command  the  city  so  bravely  with- 
stood the  celebrated  siege.  This  monument  was  erected  in  the 
year  1828,  by  subscription,  at  an  expense  of  £1,200.  It  is 
based  on  a  square  pedestal  bearing  inscriptions  descriptive  of  the 
important  event  from  which  he  derives  his  historical  celebrity. 
The  shaft  consists  of  a  Doric  column,  80  ft.  in  height,  surmounted 
with  a  statue  of  the  patriot.  The  monument  in  all  is  90  feet  in 
height,  and  is  ascended  by  a  staircase  in  the  interior  to  the  sum- 
mit, from  which  the  view  over  the  Foyle  and  the  country  beyond 
is  exceedingly  fine.  There  are  some  good  public  buildings,  and  of 
late  years  much  has  been  done  towards  rendering  the  town  worthy 


ULSTER.  103 

of  its  ancient  fame.  The  trade  of  the  port  is  steadily  improving  ; 
the  salmon  fishery  of  Lough  Foyle  is  very  productive,  enormous 
quantities  of  fish  being  taken,  most  of  which  is  shipped  for  Liver- 
pool. 

Most  readers  are  sufficiently  acquainted  with  the  modern  history 
of  Londonderry,  including  its  protracted  and  memorable  siege  in 
1689,  which  lasted  one  hundred  and  five  days.  During  this 
trial  the  citizens  exhibited  instances  of  constancy  and  devotion 
under  the  most  severe  privations,  arising  from  want  of  the  common 
necessaries  of  life,  equal  to  any  which  our  history  records.  "  Re- 
duced," writes  Mr.  Gordon,  "  to  the  extremity  of  distress,  and 
•endeavouring  to  support  the  remains  of  life  by  such  miserable  food 
as  the  flesh  of  dogs  and  vermin,  even  tallow  and  hides,  nor  able 
to  find  more  than  two  days'  provisions  of  such  substances,  the 
garrison  was  still  assured  by  the  harangues  of  Walker  in  a  pro- 
phetic spirit,  that  God  would  relieve  them ;  and  men  reduced 
almost  to  shadows  made  desperate  sallies,  but  were  unable  to 
pursue  their  advantage." 

Early  in  the  reign  of  James  I.,  a  considerable  part  of  the  pro- 
vince of  Ulster  was  vested  in  the  crown  by  the  attainder  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  families  of  distinction,  and  a  colonisation  of  the 
forfeited  estates  was  then  suggested  to  the  king  by  the  Lord 
Treasurer  Salisbury.  His  Majesty,  conceiving  the  City  of  London 
to  be  the  best  qualified  to  effect  so  great  an  object,  on  the  28th  of 
January,  1609,  permitted  an  agreement  to  be  entered  into  between 
commissioners  for  the  city  and  the  lords  of  the  Privy  Council, 
whereby  the  towns  and  liberties  of  Derry  and  Coleraine,  with 
the  "  salmon  and  eel  fisheries  of  the  rivers  Bann  and  Foyle, 
and  all  other  kind  of    fishing  in  the  river  Foyle,   so  fur  as  the 


104 


SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 


river  flowetli,  and  in  the  Bann  to  Lough  Neagh,  should  belong 
in  perpetuity  to  the  city  ; ,:  that  the  liberties  of  Londonderry 
should  extend  three  miles  every  way  ;  with  numerous  other 
privileges  and  conditions,  included  in  twenty-seven  articles  of 
agreement.  In  1613,  the  Society  of  the  New  Plantation  of  Ulster 
was  incorporated  ;  and  from  this  date  Derry  has  been  the  property 
of  the  City  of  London. 

On  leaving  Londonderry  the  line  runs  along  the  south-east  shore 
of  Lough  Foyle  for  some  distance.  At  Bellarena  the  scenery  is 
very  picturesque,  the  cliff  rising  to  a  considerable  height  overhead. 
Between  Bellarena  and  Magilligan  these  cliffs  are  especially  fine, 
and  continue  all  the  way  to  Downhill.  The  line  now  runs  along 
the  west  side  of  the  river  Bann  to  Coleraine.  This  is  a  handsome 
town,  finely  situated  on  the  river  Bann,  about  four  miles  from  the 
sea.      Here  we  take  rail  for  Portrush. 


ANTRIM  AND  ARMAGH. 


Portrush — The  White  Eocks — Dunluce  Castle — Portcoon  and  Dunkcrry  Caves — The 
Steucans— The  Causeways  :  Little,  Middle,  and  Great— Giant's  Gateway  and  Loom 
— Giant's  Organ — Portnoffer  Bay— Giant's  Amphitheatre — Giant's  Chimney -tops 
— Port-na-Spania — The  Pleaskin— Bengore  Head — Portmoon  Bay — The  Stack — 
Dunseveriek  Castle — Carrick-a-Rede — Kenbane  Head — Ballycastle — Rathlin  Island 
—"The  Grey  Man's  Path"— Fair  Head— Cushendun — Cushendall — Glenariff— 
Garron  Tower — Glenarm — Larne — "  Island  Magee" — Carrickfergus— Belfast  — 
Armagh — Conclusion. 

"PORTRUSH  is  a  small  seaport  town  on  the  northern  extremity 
of  County  Antrim.  It  is  situated  within  the  shelter  of  a  fine 
basaltic  headland  projecting  about  a  mile  into  the  sea,  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  rocks  called  the  Skerries  of  Portrush.  On  the  western 
side  of  the  peninsula  is  the  harbour,  which  has  been  rendered  avail- 
able by  the  erection  of  two  piers  or  breakwaters.  The  town  is  a 
busy  place,  much  frequented  also  by  visitors  to  the  Giant's  Cause- 
way, and  the  other  interesting  objects  on  this  remarkable  coast. 

The  White  Rocks  are  situated  midway  between  Dunluce  and 
Portrush.  They  are  formed  of  white  limestone,  and  abound  in 
caves  of  the  most  fantastic  forms.  It  is  said  there  are  as  many  as 
twenty-seven  of  these  natural  caverns,  some  of  them  extending  far 
under  the  hills,  within  a  distance  of  about  two  miles.      The  largest 


io6  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

and  most  picturesque  is  known  as  the  "  Priest's  Hole."    There  is  a 
good  hotel  here,  and  a  fine  smooth  beach  for  bathing. 

A  mile  and  a  half  farther  east  and  we  come  to  the  ruins  of 
Dunluce  Castle,  which  are  boldly  situated  on  the  margin  of  the 
sea.  Its  grey  bastions  and  joointed  gables  rise  like  an  apparition  on 
the  sharp,  jagged,  and  precipitous  mass  of  rock  ;  the  whole  seeming 
more  like  a  weird  composition  of  the  painter  than  the  creation 
of  an  architect.     Mr.  Willis  thus  describes  this  picturesque  ruin  : — 

"  Dunluce  stands  on  a  perpendicular  and  insulated  rock,  the 
entire  surface  of  which' is  so  completely  occupied  by  the  edifice 
that  the  external  walls  are  in  continuation  with  the  perpendicular 
sides  of  the  rock.  The  walls  of  the  building  were  never  very  lofty, 
but  from  the  great  area  which  they  enclosed,  contained  a  consider- 
able number  of  apartments.  One  small  vaulted  room  is  said  to  be 
inhabited  by  a  banshee,  whose  chief  occupation  is  sweeping  the 
floor.  This  story  originates  in  the  fact  that  the  floor  is  at  all  times 
as  clean  as  if  it  had  been  just  swept  ;  but  this  mystery  can  be 
explained  without  the  introduction  of  Maw  Eoi,  the  fairy,  by  the 
fact  that  the  wind  gains  admittance  through  an  aperture  on  a  level 
with  the  floor,  and  thus  preserves  the  appearance  of  cleanliness  and 
freedom  from  dust  just  now  mentioned.  In  the  north-eastern  end 
is  a  small  room,  actually  projecting  over  the  sea,  the  rocky  base 
having  fallen  away  ;  and  from  the  door  of  this  apartment  there  is 
a  goodly  view  of  the  sea  beneath.  The  rock  on  which  the  Castle 
stands  is  not  surrounded  by  water,  but  is  united  at  the  bottom  of 
the  chasm  to  the  main  land  by  a  ledge  of  rock  a  little  higher  than 
the  surface  of  the  ocean.  The  Castle  was  entered  by  a  bridge 
formed  in  the  following  manner  :  two  parallel  walls,  about  eight 
feet  asunder,  thrown  across  the  chasm,  connected  the  rock  with 


' 


.rrCE      C, 


ULSTER.  107 

the  mainland.  Upon  these,  planks  were  laid  crosswise  for  the 
admission  of  visitors,  and  removed  immediately  after  the  passage 
was  effected.  At  present  but  one  of  the  walls  remains,  about 
thirteen  inches  in  thickness  :  and  the  only  pathway  to  the  Castle  is 
along  its  summit,  over  the  awful  rocky  chasm.  The  distance  at 
which  the  other  parallel  wall  was  placed,  may  be  perceived  by  the 
traces  of  its  connection  with  the  opposite  rock. 

"  On  the  mainland,  close  to  the  Castle,  a  second  collection  of 
similar  buildings  is  seen,  erected  at  a  later  period  by  one  of  the 
Antrim  family,  in  consequence  of  the  giving  way  of  an  apartment 
on  the  verge  of  the  rock.  Beneath  the  cliff  on  which  the  rock 
stands,  is  a  cave,  penetrating  completely  through  from  the  sea  to 
the  rocky  basin  on  the  land  side  of  the  Castle.  It  may  be  entered 
by  a  small  aperture  in  the  south  end,  and  at  low  water  there  is  a 
good  deal  of  the  flooring  uncovered,  which  consists  of  large  round 
stones,  which  have  attained  this  form  from  the  action  of  the  waves. 
The  sides  and  roof  are  of  basalt,  possessing  merely  the  usual  cha- 
racters ;  here  also  is  a  very  remarkable  echo  when  the  surface  of 
the  water  is  unruffled." 

The  original  foundation  of  this  Castle  is  not  precisely  known.  It 
has  been  assigned  to  De  Courcy,  Earl  of  Ulster,  but  seemingly 
without  sufficient  evidence.  It  is  known  to  have  been  in  the 
hands  of  the  English  in  the  fifteenth  century.  The  Castle  was  the 
residence  of  the  MacQuillans,  and  afterwards  the  MacDonnells. 
There  are,  of  course,  numerous  traditions  connected  with  the  wars 
and  misfortunes  of  these  two  families. 

Continuing  eastward  we  come  to  two  caves  usually  insjjected  by 
visitors,  viz.  Portcoon  Cave  and  Dunkerry  Cave.  The  former  can 
be  visited  either  by  land  or  water      Boats  may  enter  to  a  distance 


io8  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

of  a  hundred  yards  or  more,  but  the  swell  is  sometimes  dangerous. 
Dunkerry  Cave  can  only  be  entered  by  water,  the  entrance  being 
very  striking.  As  each  successive  wave  rolls  into  this  cave  at  the 
flow  of  the  tide,  the  surface  rises  so  ominously  as  to  suggest  the 
possibility  of  the  waters  reaching  the  summit ;  of  this,  however, 
there  need  be  no  apprehension,  the  roof  being  60  feet  above 
high-water  mark.  Both  caves  have  echoes,  which  it  is  customary 
to  awaken. 

We  now  soon  reach  the  Steucans,  hill-promontories  which 
divide  the  bays  Portnabaw  and  Port  Ganniay.  A  little  farther 
we  come  upon  the  Giant's  Well,  a  basin  in  the  basaltic  floor- 
ing which  is  generally  filled  with  spring-water.  And  then  we 
are  on  the  verge  of  the  often  described  and  pictured  natural 
curiosity,  the  Giant's  Causeway,  one  of  the  most  perfect  examples 
of  columnar  basalt  in  the  world.  Before  describing  the  various 
objects  in  their  order,  proceeding  from  west  to  east,  we  propose  to 
devote  a  brief  space  to  the  general  consideration  of  the  district. 

"  Basaltic  rocks  occur  more  or  less  plentifully  over  the  whole 
northern  coast  of  the  County  Antrim,  but  the  district  embracing 
the  most  interesting  variety  of  forms,  ranges  over  a  space  of  about 
four  miles,  from  Portcoon  Cave  on  the  west,  to  Dunseverick  Castle 
on  the  east.  To  form  any  conception  of  the  appearance  of  the 
Causeway,  we  must  suppose  a  wild  rocky  shore,  with  here  a  shoal 
and  there  a  beetling  cliff,  alternating  with  deposits  of  debris.  But 
the  majority  of  our  rocks  in  cliffs  are  deposited  in  layers  one  above 
another ;  whereas  these  are  composed  of  perpendicular  columns, 
some  five,  some  six-sided,  and  though  separate,  fitting  so  closely 
together  as  to  exclude,  in  some  places,  even  a  sheet  of  paper. 
The  exposed  ends  of  these  columns  form  the  Causeway,  their  entire 


ULSTER.  109 

lengths  in  other  places  forming  the  ribbed  or  fluted  crags,  as  in  the 
Organ  and  Stack,  resembling,  but  far  surpassing  in  extent,  the 
similar  columns  on  Arthur's  Seat,  known  as  '  Samson's  Ribs.'  Nor 
are  the  pillars  themselves  continuous,  but  composed  of  several 
pieces  fitted  together  by  convex  and  concave  surfaces.  Of  the 
figure  of  the  pillars,  we  are  told  that  '  there  is  only  one  triangular 
pillar  throughout  the  whole  extent  of  the  three  Causeways.  It 
stands  near  the  east  side  of  the  Grand  Causeway.  There  are  but 
three  pillars  of  nine  sides  ;  one  of  them  situated  in  the  Honeycomb, 
and  the  others  not  far  from  the  triangular  pillar  just  noticed.  The 
total  number  of  four  and  eight  sides  bear  but  a  small  proportion  to 
the  entire  mass  of  pillars,  of  which  it  may  be  safely  computed  that 
ninety-nine  out  of  one  hundred  have  either  five,  six,  or  seven  sides.' 
It  would  be  out  of  place  here  to  enter  into  geological  details.  It 
will  be  sufficient  for  the  general  reader's  purpose,  if  we  state  that 
these  columns  are  composed  chemically  of  about  one-half  flinty 
earth,  one-quarter  iron,  and  one-quarter  clay  and  lime  ;  that  they 
are  plutonic  in  their  origin,  that  is,  formed  by  a  perfect  fusion  of 
the  ingredients  into  one  mass,  which  in  cooling  has  cracked  or 
crystallized  into  regular  forms,  as  starch  will  on  drying."  *  Kohl 
judiciously  remarks  on  this  subject — "With  all  the  explana- 
tions that  can  be  offered,  however,  so  much  is  left  unexplained, 
that  they  answer  very  little  purpose.  On  a  close  investigation 
of  these  wonderful  formations,  so  many  questions  arise,  that  one 
scarcely  ventures  to  utter  them.  With  inquiries  of  this  nature, 
perhaps  not  the  least  gain  is  the  knowledge  of  how  much  lies 
beyond  the  limits  of  our  inquiries,  and  how  many  things  that  lie 
so  plainly  before  our  eyes,  which  we  can  see  and  handle,  may  yet 

*  Black's  "  Guide  to  Ireland." 


i  io  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

be  wrapped  in  unfathomable  mystery.  We  see  in  the  Giant's 
Causeway  the  most  certain  and  obvious  effects  produced  by  the 
operation  of  active  and  powerful  forces  which  entirely  escape  our 
scrutiny.  We  walk  over  the  heads  of  some  forty  thousand 
columns  (for  this  number  has  been  counted  by  some  curious  and 
leisurely  persons),  all  beautifully  cut  and  polished,  formed  of  such 
neat  pieces,  so  exactly  fitted  to  each  other,  and  so  cleverly  supported, 
that  we  might  fancy  we  had  before  us  the  work  of  ingenious  human 
artificers  ;  and  yet  what  we  behold  is  the  result  of  the  immutable 
laws  of  nature,  acting  without  any  apparent  object,  and  by  a  process 
which  must  remain  a  mystery  for  ever  to  our  understanding." 

The  Causeway  consists  of  three  piers,  or  moles — the  Little 
Causeway,  the  Middle  Causeway,  the  Great  Causeway — each  jut- 
ting out  into  the  sea.  The  Little  Causeway  is  first  approached 
from  the  west;  it  is  about  380  feet  in  length,  but  16  feet  in 
height,  and  is  separated  from  the  central  compartment  by  a  large 
circular  dyke.  The  middle  section,  which  is  the  shortest,  consists 
of  a  magnificent  group  of  lofty  pillars  called  the  Honeycomb,  a 
name  which  aptly  explains  its  character  ;  this  is  also  bounded  on 
the  east  by  an  excavation,  or  dyke.  Beyond  this  is  the  Grand 
Causeway,  which  is  about  700  feet  long  by  100  wide. 

On  turning  to  leave  the  Causeway,  the  Giant's  Gateway  and 
Loom  are  pointed  out.  These  are  composed  of  a  series  of 
columns,  the  perpendicular  lengths  of  which  are  exposed  to  view. 
The  Giant's  Organ  is  a  similar  object,  but  more  beautiful  than 
either.  "It  forms  no  part  of  the  Causeway,  but  is  placed  apart  in 
the  mountain,  and  consists  of  a  number  of  large  pillars,  declining 
on  either  side  to  shorter  and  shorter  ones,  like  the  strings  of  a 
harp  ;   and  we  might  really  imagine  a  giant  organist  sitting  play- 


ULSTER.  1 1 1 

ing  at  it,  especially  as  the  basaltic  pillars,  when  struck,  give  forth 
a  metallic  ring." 

Portno-ffer  Bay  is  now  passed,  and  we  come  to  the  Giant's 
Amphitheatre.  Of  this  object  Kohl  writes  enthusiastically  : — 
"  The  bay  called  the  Giant's  Amphitheatre  is  certainly  the  most 
beautiful  amphitheatre  in  the  world,  that  in  Rome  not  excepted. 
The  form  of  it  is  so  exact  half  a  circle,  that  no  architect  could 
have  possibly  made  it  more  so,  and  the  cliff  slopes  at  precisely  the 
same  angle  all  round  to  the  centre.  Round  the  upper  part  runs  a 
row  of  columns,  80  feet  high  ;  then  comes  a  broad  rounded  pro- 
jection, like  an  immense  bench,  for  the  accommodation  of  the 
giant  guests  of  Fin  MacCoul  ;  then  again  a  row  of  pillars  60  feet 
high,  and  then  again  a  gigantic  bench,  and  so  down  to  the  bottom, 
where  the  water  is  enclosed  by  a  circle  of  black  boulder  stones, 
like  the  limits  of  the  arena." 

The  Giant's  Chimney-tops  are  three  isolated  rocks  standing  on 
a  promontory.  In  Port-na-Spania  there  is  another  organ — the 
"  Spanish  Organ  ;"  and  then  we  reach  Port-na-Callion,  in  which 
are  pointed  out  "  the  Priest  and  his  Flock,"  "  the  Nursing  Child," 
"  the  Scholar,"  a  white  pillar  in  a  black  crevice,  likened  to  a 
student,  book  in  hand  ;  and  "  the  King  and  his  Nobles,"  a 
singular  assemblage  of  pillars.  When  these  are  passed,  we  come 
to  the  Pleaskin,  the  most  famous  and  beautiful  of  all  the  promon- 
tories. This  remarkable  headland  is  nearly  400  feet  in  height, 
and  exhibits,  in  its  various  and  distinguishable  strata,  the 
geological  characteristics  of  the  district. 

East  of  the  Pleaskin,  fronting  Horse-shoe  Harbour,  is  a  singular 
formation  of  rocks,  called  "  the  Lion's  Head."  Off  Kenbane 
Head,   another  fine  headland,  are  "  the  Twins  ;"   then  comes  the 


1 1 2  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

"  Giant's  Ball-alley  ;"  next  "  the  Giant's  Pulpit  ;"  and  then  we 
arrive  at  Bengore  Head,  scarcely  inferior  in  grandeur,  although 
more  limited  in  extent,  to  the  promontory  of  Fair  Head.  Here  a 
very  peculiar  pillar  has  received  the  name  of  "  the  Giant's 
Granny  ;"  and  not  far  off  four  isolated  columns  are  known  as 
"  the  Four  Sisters."  Rounding  Port  Fad  is  a  single  rock,  named 
"  the  Priest."  We  now  enter  Portmoon  Bay,  into  which  rushes  a 
river,  forming  a  noble  cataract  as  it  reaches  the  coast.  Here 
occurs  another  striking  and  picturesque  basaltic  formation,  called 
"  the  Stack."  Still  farther  on,  we  pass  a  curious  rock,  called 
"  the  Hen  and  Chickens  ;"  and  shortly  arrive  at  the  splendid 
ruin  of  Dunseverick  Castle,  formerly  the  seat  of  the  O'Cahans, 
chieftains  of  the  district. 

We  have  now  completed  the  survey  of  the  Causeway  district 
from  west  to  east.  It  will  be  advisable,  if  the  tourist  have  time, 
to  make  the  inspection  first  in  a  boat,  and  have  the  various  objects 
pointed  out  to  him  by  the  boatman,  and  afterwards  to  visit  them 
by  land  with  a  guide.  We  have  given  the  names  used  by  the 
guides  to  describe  the  various  objects  ;  these  names,  of  course, 
are  merely  fanciful,  and,  to  our  mind,  add  nothing  to  the  interest 
of  the  scenes. 

We  now  propose  to  continue  our  route  eastward  by  the  coast- 
road  to  Belfast  ;  the  tourist  pressed  for  time  would  take  the  rail 
at  Ballymoney,  for  the  same  destination. 

By  the  road  which  we  traverse,  excellent  views  of  the  bold  and 
ruofsred  scenerv  of  the  iron-bound  shore  mav  be  obtained.  One  of 
the  most  striking  objects  of  interest  is  the  famous  Carrick-a-Rede, 
the  meaning  of  which  is  "  the  rock  in  the  road."  This  headland, 
which    projects    a    considerable   way   into    the   sea,   and    on    the 


ULSTER.  1 1 3 

extremit}7  of  which  there  is  a  small  cottage,  built  for  a  fishing 
station,  is  divided  from  the  mainland  by  a  rent,  or  chasm.  Across 
this  gulf  a  flying  bridge  of  ropes  is  thrown  during  the  summer, 
for  the  convenience  of  those  attached  to  the  fishery,  which  is  of 
some  importance.  Over  this  frail  structure  women  and  boys  carry 
loads  with  the  utmost  contempt  of  danger  and  apparent  ease. 
The  chief  use  of  this  insulated  rock  appears  to  be  that  of  inter- 
rupting the  salmon,  who  annually  coast  along  the  shore  in  search 
of  rivers  in  which  to  deposit  their  spawn.  Their  passage  is  gene- 
rally made  close  to  the  shore,  so  that  Carrick-a-Rede  is  well 
situated  for  projecting  the  intercepting  nets. 

About  two  miles  from  Ballycastle  is  Kenbane  Head,  a  singular 
promontory,  which  derives  its  name  (White  Head)  from  the  white- 
ness of  the  limestone  rock.  It  is  crowned  by  the  ruins  of  an 
ancient  castle,  of  which  little  remains  except  a  part  of  the  mossy 
walls  of  the  tower  or  keep.  The  building  is  commonly  known  by 
the  name  of  M'Allister  Castle  ;  from  its  bold  and  romantic  situa- 
tion, it  is  a  pleasing  object  in  the  landscape. 

Arriving  at  Ballycastle,  the  visitor  is  much  struck  with  its 
situation  and  general  appearance,  standing  as  it  does  at  the  head 
of  the  bay  to  which  it  gives  its  name,  opposite  Rathlin  Island,  and 
in  a  valley  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  mountain,  which  shelters  it  on 
the  south.  This  little  town  is  of  interest  more  for  what  it  has 
been,  than  for  what  it  is  :  it  has  little  to  boast  of  now,  save  the 
beauty  of  its  situation,  and  superiority  of  its  houses,  which  were 
raised  in  better  times.  Above  a  century  ago,  a  large  sum  was 
expended  in  improving  the  harbour,  and  in  the  construction  of  a 
quay.  Most  of  these  improvements  were  carried  out  at  the 
expense  of  Hugh  Boyd,   Esq.,  who  likewise  erected  glass-houses, 

i 


1 14  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

tanneries,  and  breweries.  The  town  soon  became  a  place  of  com- 
mercial and  manufacturing  importance.  Mr.  Boyd  also  endowed 
several  charities,  and,  although  a  member  of  the  Established 
Church,  built  a  Presbyterian,  a  Methodist,  and  a  Roman  Catholic 
place  of  worship.  All  this  prosperity  was  slowly  but  surely 
frustrated  by  the  encroaching  sand,  which  gradually  choked  up  the 
harbour.  The  consequence  was  that  all  the  industries  fostered  by 
Mr.  Boyd  were  suspended,  and  the  place  is  now  only  visited  by 
vessels  in  the  summer  season.  In  the  days  of  the  town's  pros- 
perity, collieries  were  successfully  worked  :  while  pursuing  this 
industry,  the  miners  came  upon  some  neglected  coal-works.  From 
this  interesting  discovery  it  has  been  sought  to  establish  a  very 
early  civilisation  in  Ireland,  as  no  tradition  remains  in  the  country 
of  the  working  of  these  mines.  "  Thirty-six  chambers  were  dis- 
covered, all  trimmed  and  dressed  by  excellent  hands  ;  also  baskets 
and  mining  instruments,  and  other  demonstrations  of  the  original 
miner's  knowledge  and  expertness  in  the  art,  equal  to  that  of  the 
present  day." 

Rathlin,  or  Raghery  Island,  is  about  four  to  six  miles  from  the 
mainland,  and  twelve  or  fourteen  from  the  Mull  of  Cantire  in 
Scotland.  From  its  geological  formation,  it  is  generally  believed 
that  this  island  was  once  connected  with  the  Antrim  coast ;  and 
that  it  is  the  surviving  fragment  of  a  large  tract  of  country  which, 
at  some  period  of  time,  has  been  buried  in  the  deep,  and  may 
have  formerly  united  StafFa  and  the  Giant's  Causeway.  It  is 
about  eight  miles  in  length,  and  one  and  a  quarter  to  half  a  mile 
wide.  At  a  jriace  called  Doon  Point,  the  disposition  of  the 
basaltic  columns  is  very  remarkable.  The  inhabitants,  who 
number  about  a  thousand,  principally  speak  the  Irish  language. 


APPROAC  HIS  G-    THE     GIANTS      CAUSEWAY. 


ULSTER.  115 

Not  far  from  Ballycastle,  on  the  way  to  Fair  Head,  is  a  natural 
curiosity,  called  "the  Grey  Man's  Path."  It  is  a  singular  fissure  in 
the  rocky  promontory,  across  which  a  pillar  of  greenstone  has 
fallen,  which  remains  supported  on  both  sides  at  a  considerable 
elevation. 

Four  miles  north-east  of  Ballycastle  is  situated  the  bold  and 
majestic  promontory  of  Benmore,  or  Fair  Head.  "From  the 
summit,  which  is  about  630  feet  above  the  sea-level,  the  prospect  is 
really  magnificent,  comprising  within  it  the  bold  iron  coast  which 
intervenes  between  it  and  Bengore  Head,  with  Rathlin  Island,  the 
Mull  of  Cantire,  from  which  it  is  distant  about  seventeen  miles, 
the  Isle  of  Islay,  Sanda  Island,  and  the  mouth  of  the  North 
Channel,  in  all  its  wild  sublimity."  In  a  hollow  near  the  summit 
are  two  small  lakes,  Lough  Dhu  (Black  Lake)  and  Lough -na- 
Cranagh  (the  Lake  of  the  Island).  The  island  in  the  latter  lake 
is  said  to  have  been  made  by  the  Druids,  and  used  as  the  site  of 
their  religious  ceremonies.  "  It  rises  hi  a  perfectly  regular  oval 
figure  from  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  consists  entirely  of  black 
basaltic  rock,  fragments  of  which  lie  round  the  shores  of  the  lake 
in  great  numbers.  Its  position  in  the  middle  of  a  lake  on  the 
summit  of  a  vast  headland,  is  certainly  one  which  they  would  have 
been  likely  to  choose." 

The  promontory  of  Fair  Head  is  composed  of  a  range  of 
enormous  basaltic  pillars.  One  of  the  columns  is  a  quadrangular 
prism,  measuring  33  feet  by  36  on  the  sides,  and  above  200  feet 
perpendicular.  At  the  foot  of  this  magnificent  colonnade  is  scon 
an  immense  mass  of  rock,  similarly  formed,  strewn  in  the  wildest 
chaos.  These  ruins  are  supposed  to  have  been,  in  the  course  of 
ages,  tumbled  down  from  their  original   position,  by  storms  or  by 

i    -2 


1 1 6  SCENER1 r  IN  IRELAND. 

some  violent  operation  of  nature.  "  The  scene  of  ruin  at  the  base 
of  these  Titanian  pillars  is  probably  not  exceeded  by  any  in 
Europe.  Here  the  sea  heaves  in  a  solemn,  majestic  swell,  the 
peculiar  attribute  of  the  Atlantic  waters,  and  in  every  retreat  dis- 
closes the  apparently  endless  continuation  of  convulsive  ruin, 
covered  by  the  waters  beneath  the  promontory.  Upon  this  region 
of  desolation,  on  the  shore,  enormous  debris,  either  assuming  the 
character  of  rude  columnization,  or  in  a  perfectly  shapeless  mass, 
whose  weight  is  calculated  at  from  four  to  five  thousand  tons, 
are  thrown  together  in  all  the  savage  sublimity  of  which  we 
can  conceive  the  wildest  scenes  in  nature  capable."  Viewed 
from  the  sea,  as  shown  in  our  engraving,  the  extent  and  magni- 
ficence of  this  bold,  perpendicular  cliff  can  be  thoroughly  felt  and 
aj:>preciated. 

We  next  pass  Tor  Head,  and  reach  the  small  fishing  village  of 
Cushendun,  which  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  bay  from  which  it 
takes  its  name.  The  river  Glendun  is  here  spanned  by  a  noble 
viaduct,  80  feet  in  height,  erected  at  a  cost  of  £17,000.  Three 
miles  farther  is  the  town  of  Cushendall,  beautifully  situated  within 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  the  sea.  The  adjacent  country  is  romantic 
and  picturesque,  and  numerous  caves  of  singular  formation  are  to 
be  seen  on  the  coast. 

Red  Bay  is  next  reached,  and  the  wild  and  desolate  basaltic  vale 
of  Glenariff,  embosomed  in  lofty  mountains,  its  front  being  open  to 
the  sea,  into  which  falls  the  river,  which  rushes  through  the  ravine 
that  divides  the  closely  adjoining  mountains.  On  rounding  Garron 
Point  we  come  to  Garron  Tower,  the  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  London- 
derry, a  castellated  building,  placed  on  the  summit  of  a  rock,  which 
rises  to  a  considerable  elevation.      The  marine  view  from  the  ram- 


ULSTER.  117 

parts  is  unusually  extensive  and  grand.  About  four  miles  farther 
is  the  pretty  village  and  bay  of  Carnlough. 

We  next  arrive  at  the  pretty  little  town  of  Glenarm,  situated  in 
a  deep  glen  which  opens  to  the  sea,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Glen- 
arm River.  The  Castle  is  a  stately  pile,  very  ancient,  with  modern 
additions  in  the  finest  taste.  It  is  the  seat  of  the  Antrim  family, 
who  are  greatly  beloved  by  the  people  of  the  district.  As  at  pre- 
sent constructed,  the  Castle  is  a  quadrangular  structure  in  the 
Gothic  style,  containing  some  noble  apartments.  The  building  is 
finely  situated  ;  from  one  front  there  is  a  splendid  sea-view,  and 
from  the  other  a  prospect  up  the  wooded  glen.  In  the  great  Deer 
Park,  supposed  to  be  the  finest  in  the  kingdom,  four  hundred  deer 
and  stags  graze  ;  and  six  hundred  old  ancestral  trees  overshadow 
the  grounds  with  their  spreading  boughs. 

Lame  is  a  busy  little  seaport  of  about  three  thousand  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  on  the  Lough  of  the  same  name,  which  is  formed  by 
the  singular  peninsula  of  (<  Island  Magee."  This  island  extends 
about  seven  miles  from  north  to  south,  and  is  about  two  miles  in 
breadth.  The  inhabitants,  who  number  about  two  thousand,  aro 
mostly  of  Scotch  descent.  Among  the  curiosities  of  the  island  are 
a  rocking  stone,  weighing  twelve  tons,  and  some  curious  caves  at 
Gobbins  Cliffs. 

The  tourist  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  by  the  excellence  of  the  new 
road  we  have  traversed  from  Ballycastle  to  Larne.  This  road,  Avith 
its  viaducts,  cost  the  large  sum  of  £37,000.  Formerly  a  narrow 
and  difficult  way,  called  "  the  Path,"  alone  conducted  the  traveller 
along  this  coast.  The  new  road  is  constructed  with  equal  skill, 
taste,  and  enterprise  ;  cliffs  cut  through,  chasms  crossed,  water- 
courses bridged — a  rough  and  jagged  coast,  in  short,  traversed  by 


n8  '  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

a  road  almost  as  level  as  a  tennis-court.  For  a  summer  triji, 
nothing  can  be  more  delightful  than  this  tour  along  the  bold  and 
rugged  shore  of  the  North  Channel. 

From  Lame  the  railway  may  be  taken  to  Belfast,  passing  through 
the  ancient  town  of  Carrickfergus,  which  is  situated  on  the  bay  of 
the  same  name,  also  called  Belfast  Lough.  The  principal  objects 
of  interest  in  the  town  are  the  Castle  and  the  Church. 

The  Castle  of  Carrickfergus  is  one  of  the  noblest  and  most 
perfect  fortresses  of  the  olden  time  now  remaining  in  Ireland.  Sir 
John  de  Courcy  is  believed  to  have  founded  it  in  the  latter  part  of 
the  twelfth  century.  It  is  situated  on  a  rock  about  thirty  feet 
high,  projecting  boldly  into  the  sea,  by  which  it  is  surrounded  on 
three  sides.  The  entrance  from  the  land  side  is  by  an  arched 
gateway  and  massive  door,  with  a  portcullis.  The  doorway  is 
flanked  on  each  side  by  an  immense  semicircular  tower.  A  high 
and  strong  boundary  Avail,  with  embrasures  for  artillery,  surrounds 
the  entire  fortress.  The  ballium,  or  keep,  is  ninety  feet  high,  and 
the  walls  nine  feet  thick  :  from  the  top  a  splendid  view  is  obtained, 
extending,  on  a  clear  day,  to  the  Mourne  Mountains  and  the 
Scotch  coast.  The  castle  contains  a  barrack,  bomb-proof  maga- 
zine, and  ordnance  store-rooms.  Some  years  since,  a  total  change 
was  made  in  the  defence  of  the  Castle,  and  cannon  of  a  very  large 
calibre  were  mounted,  which  command  the  entrance  of  the  Lough. 
The  general  appearance  of  the  Castle  is  that  of  the  early  Saxon 
structures  in  Ireland,  built  entirely  for  strength,  without  any 
attempt  at  ornament,  but  possessing  a  massive  dignity  and 
grandeur. 

In   1575  a  wall  sixteen  feet  high  and  seven  thick,  with  seven 
bastions,  to  surround  the  town,  was  commenced,  and  completed  in 


ULSTER.  119 

the  year  1008  :  a  considerable  portion  of  the  wall  is  still  standing, 
and  one  of  the  four  entrance  gates.  On  the  14th  of  June,  1G90, 
King  William  III.  landed  here  with  his  army,  twelve  days  before 
the  battle  of  the  Boyne.  The  rock  on  which  the  king  stepped  on 
landing  is  at  the  end  of  the  quay,  projecting  from  it,  and  still 
forming  the  landing-place. 

The  parish  Church  of  St.  Nicholas,  part  of  which  is  said  to  have 
been  built  in  11G4-,  on  the  site  of  a  pagan  temple,  is  a  fine  old 
building.  It  is  a  massive  cruciform  structure,  with  an  attached 
tower,  from  the  summit  of  which  rises  an  octagonal  spire.  The 
interior  is  very  beautiful,  the  east  or  chancel  window  being 
enriched  with  a  grand  stained-glass  representation  of  the  baptism 
of  the  Saviour  by  St.  John.  The  church  contains  some  interesting 
monuments  to  the  Chichester  family.  "One  erected  in  1625  has 
kneeling  figures  of  Sir  Arthur,  the  founder  of  the  family,  and  his 
lady.  Between  them  lies  the  figure  of  their  infant  son,  and  below 
is  the  effigy  of  Sir  John  Chichester.  Heraldic  emblems  decorate 
the  tomb." 

Belfast  is  about  ten  miles  from  Carrickfergus.  This  great  sea- 
port stands  at  the  embouchure  of  the  Lagan,  at  the  head  of  Belfast 
Lough,  twelve  miles  from  the  Irish  Sea.  The  site  is  low,  being- 
little  more  than  six  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  at  spring  tides, 
notwithstanding  which  the  town  is  generally  considered  healthy. 
On  the  land  side  it  is  picturesquely  bounded  by  the  ridges  of 
Divis  and  Cave  Hill.  The  general  appearance  of  the  town  is  indi- 
cative of  business  and  prosperity,  combining  the  trade  and  manu- 
facture of  Glasgow  and  Manchester,  with  less  of  their  smoke  and 
dirt. 

Belfast  cannot  claim   any  high   degree  of  antiquity  ;  up   to   a 


120  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

comparatively  recent  period  it  was  a  place  of  little  consequence. 
Few  towns,  however,  have  progressed  in  importance  so  rapidly.  In 
1747  there  were  only  three  vessels,  of  198  tons  burden  collectively, 
employed  in  the  cross-channel  trade  ;  in  1870  the  tonnage 
amounted  to  1,225,000  tons.  In  1821  the  inhabitants  numbered 
only  37,000;  in  1871  they  amounted  to  175,394.  The  most 
important  branch  of  commerce  is  the  channel  trade,  above  forty 
steamers  plying  regularly  between  Belfast  and  the  chief  ports  of 
England  and  Scotland,  besides  Dublin  and  Deny.  The  foreign 
trade  is  also  extensive.  The  chief  exports  are  linen  and  cotton 
goods,  grain,  yarn,  flax,  tow,  cattle,  and  provisions. 

The  staple  manufactures  are  linen  and  cotton.  In  1870  there 
were  154  factories,  employing  55,000  hands.  The  other  chief 
branches  of  industry  are  linen  and  cotton  weaving,  bleaching,  dye- 
ing, calico-printing,  and  iron-founding.  There  are  also  many  flour 
and  oil-mills,  chemical  works,  breweries,  ship-building,  rope  and 
sail-cloth  yards. 

Many  of  the  streets  are  wide  and  well  built,  especially  towards 
the  exterior  of  the  town.  The  mercantile  quarter  lies  chiefly  near 
the  extensive  and  handsome  quays.  The  manufactories  are  mostly 
on  the  north  and  west  of  the  town.  A  few  of  the  public  build- 
ings, which  are  numerous  and  good,  may  be  indicated. 

Queen's  College  is  a  beautiful  structure  in  the  Tudor  style, 
opened  in  1849.  The  entire  length  of  the  building  is  600  feet ; 
it  consists  of  a  centre  of  300  feet,  and  two  wings,  each  150  feet. 
The  halls,  lecture-rooms,  museums,  and  other  apartments,  are 
spacious  and  well  lighted.  The  building  stands  in  the  centre  of  a 
fine  park,  many  acres  in  extent,  with  grounds  which  afford  ample 
exercise  for  the  professors  and  students.      The  New  Custom  House 


ULSTER.  121 

is  one  of  the  largest  structures  in  Belfast.  The  building  was  com- 
menced towards  the  close  of  1854,  and  finished  in  1857.  It  is 
constructed  entirely  of  stone,  in  the  Italian  style.  The  edifice 
affords  accommodation  for  several  branches  of  the  public  service. 
The  Court  House,  opened  in  1850,  is  a  magnificent  building, 
situated  immediately  opposite  the  new  prison. 

Belfast  Museum,  erected  in  1830,  is  built  in  the  Classic  style, 
and  displays  much  good  taste  in  the  execution  of  the  design.  It 
contains  many  interesting  Irish  antiquities  found  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, and  also  many  natural  curiosities.  The  internal  arrange- 
ments of  the  Museum  are  good,  and  highly  creditable  to  the 
enterprise  of  the  shareholders.  The  Botanic  Gardens,  situated  at 
a  short  distance  beyond  the  Queen's  College,  and  on  the  bank  of 
the  river  Lagan,  are  well  laid  out,  and  contain  the  rarest  shrubs 
and  flowers,  with  a  fine  collection  of  the  heaths  found  in  the  Irish 
bogs.     The  Gardens  comprise  about  seventeen  acres  of  land. 

We  have  no  space  to  describe  the  linen  halls,  commercial  and 
corn  exchanges,  the  flax  mills  and  linen  warehouses,  banks, 
churches  and  chapels,  and  charitable  institutions, — all  of  which 
are  in  keeping  with  the  chief  seat  of  the  trade  and  manufactures 
of  Ireland.  A  good  bird's-eye  view  of  Belfast  and  its  environs 
may  be  obtained  from  Cave  Hill,  about  three  miles  north  of  the 
town.  The  Hill  is  chiefly  interesting  on  account  of  its  geological 
structure,  being  composed  of  limestone  and  basalt.  The  view  of 
Belfast  Lough  from  Cave  Hill  is  exceedingly  fine,  commanding 
the  whole  of  the  Lough,  the  greater  part  of  County  Down,  and  in 
clear  weather  the  coast  of  Scotland. 

There  are  many  places  of  interest  around  Belfast  to  which 
excursions  might  be  made  if  time  permitted.      As  far  as  we  are 


i22  SCENERY  IN  IRELAND. 

now  concerned,  our  road  must  be  homeward,  diverging  from  the 
direct  route  to  Dublin  to  visit  the  seat  of  the  Archiepiscopal  See 
of  the  Primate  and  Metropolitan  of  all  Ireland. 

The  City  of  Armagh  has  been  a  place  of  importance  from  time 
immemorial.      St.  Patrick  is  said  to  have  founded  a  church  there 
about  the  year  457  ;  since  which  time  it  has  remained  the  chief 
ecclesiastical  city  in  Ireland.      He  also  founded  the  Monastery  of 
SS.  Peter  and  Paul,  for  Canons  Regular  of  the  Order  of  St.  Augus- 
tine.     Armagh,  from  the  year  495  to  the  ninth  century,  was  the 
metropolis  of  Ireland,   the    native    kings  living  at  Emania,   two 
miles  to  the  west  of  the  city.      It  was  then  renowned  as  a  school 
of  theology  and  literature,  its  college  being  the  first  in  Europe. 
This  institution  received  numerous  grants  and  endowments  from 
the  native  kings,  the  last  of  whom,  Roderick  O'Connor,  made  a 
grant  to  its  professors  in  the  year  1169.      The  annals  of  Ulster 
state  that,  at  a  synod  held  by  Gelasius,  at  Claonadh,  in  1162,  it 
was  decreed  that  no  person   should  lecture  publicly  on  theology 
except  such  as  studied  at  Armagh.      In  the  year   1004,  the  cele- 
brated Brian  Boroimhe  entered  the  city,  when  he  presented  at  the 
altar  of  the  church  a  collar  of  gold  weighing  twenty  ounces  ;  and 
where,  after  his  death  at  the  battle  of  Clontarf,  agreeably  to  his 
dying  request,  he  was  interred,  together  with  the  remains  of  his 
son  and  grandson.      The  town  suffered  severely,  at  various  epochs, 
from  fire  and  warfare. 

Independently  of  its  historical  associations,  there  are  many 
features  about  Armagh  and  its  environs  worthy  of  notice.  It  is 
situated  round  the  base  and  on  the  slopes  of  a  gentle  eminence, 
hence  its  original  name,  Ard-Magha,  "  the  high  field."  Its  ancient 
Cathedral   crowns   the    summit   of  the   hill.      This  church   is   the 


' 


ULSTER.  123 

shell  of  the  building  erected  about  1270,  restored  from  ruin,  and 
strengthened,  but  having  all  its  ancient  architectural  features  either 
retained  or  reproduced.  This  restoration  was  carried  out  by  Lord 
Primate  Beresford,  who  died  at  the  advanced  age  of  ninety,  in 
July,  1862.  His  grace  contributed  a  princely  sum  towards  the 
work  of  reparation  of  the  cathedral. 

The  city  is  for  the  most  part  built  of  limestone,  and  the  streets 
are  paved  with  the  same  material,  which  gives  a  remarkably  clean 
and  solid  look  to  the  place.  Altogether,  Armagh  is  one  of  the 
nicest  towns  in  Ireland. 


We  must  here  reluctantly  bring  our  brief  rambles  in  Ireland  to 
a  close.  In  that  favoured  land  the  lover  of  the  picturesque  finds 
a  charming  diversity  in  its  marvellous  cliff  and  coast  scenery,  its 
majestic  mountains,  noble  rivers,  and  extensive  lakes.  Truly, 
there  is  no  such  contented  happiness  to  be  enjoyed  as  when  gazing 
on  the  beauties  of  nature  :  and  nowhere  can  this  enjoyment  be 
realised  more  completely  than  in  the  Sister  Isle.  At  every  step 
the  visitor  recognises  the  consoling  fact  that  the  power  of  nature 
cannot  be  nullified  by  the  folly,  nor  her  beauty  be  altogether' 
subdued  by  the  misery  or  selfishness  of  man. 

The  motive  of  this  little  book  is  recreative,  not  political  or 
economical.  Still  one  cannot  look  back  upon  a  country  so  beau- 
tiful without  hoping  and  believing  there  must  be  better  times  in 
store  for  her  ;  without  indulging  the  aspiration  that  the  Island 
may  be  as  happy  and  prosperous  as  it  is  lovely  in  aspect ;  and  that 
man  may  do  something  more  for  the  land  for  which  nature  has 
done  so  much. 


INDEX. 


Aghada,  39. 

Aghadoe,  65. 

Antrim,  105. 

Arbutus  Island  (Killarney),  54, 

Plants,  63, 
Arklow,  31. 
Armagh,  122. 

Cathedral,  122. 
Askeaton,  81. 

Ballycastle,  113. 
Ballyshannon,  93,  94. 
Bantry  Bay,  35. 

Town,  49, 
Barnesmore  Pass,  101. 
Belfast,  119. 

Lough,  118,  119,  121, 
Belleek,  93. 

Bells  of  Shandon  (Cork),  38. 
Bengore  Head,  112. 
Black  Eock  Castle,  37. 
Black  Valley  (Killarney),  69. 
Blackwater  River,  43. 
Blarney,  40. 

Castle,  40. 

Groves  of,  40,  41. 

Stone,  40,  41. 
Bray,  13. 
Bundoran,  94. 

Carrantuel,  70. 

Carrick-a-Rede  Chasm  (Antrim),  112. 

Carrickfergus,  118. 

Castle  and  Church,  118,  119. 


Castle-Connel,  79. 

Castle  Howard  (Vale  of  Ovoca),  29. 

Cave  HiU  (Belfast),  121. 

Clontarf,  7. 

Cloyne,  39. 

Coom-na-Goppel,  71. 

Cork,  County,  35. 

City,  37. 

Harbour,  35, 
Cushendall,  116. 
Cushendun,  116. 

Dalkey,  10. 

Dargle,  Glen  of  the  (Wicklow),  14. 

Deel,  River,  81. 

Delgany,  19. 

Derry,  102,  104. 

Derrycunnihy  Cascade,  55. 

Devenish  Island,  90. 

Devil's  Glen  (Wicklow),  19. 

Devil's  Punch-bowl  (Killarney),  71. 

Dinis  Island,  56, 

Donegal,  Town,  98. 

Castle,  99, 

Abbey,  99. 
Doonas,  Falls  of,  78. 
Downs,  Glen  of  the  (Wicklow),  18. 
Dublin,  3. 

Bay,  7,  11. 
Dunkerry  Cave,  108. 
Dunloe,  Cave  of,  6^. 

Gap  of,  67. 
Dunluce  Castle,  106. 
Dunran,  Pass  of,  20. ' 
Dunseverick  Castle,  112. 


INDEX. 


125 


Eagle's  Nest,  the  (Killarney),  55. 

Ennis,  81. 

Enniskerry,  13. 

Enniskillen,  90. 

Erne,  Lough,  90,  92. 

Esk,  River,  98,  99. 

Fair  Head,  115. 
Fergus  River,  81. 
Foyne-',  81. 

Gap  of  Dunloe,  67. 
Giant's  Causeway,  110. 

Amphitheatre,  111. 

Causeways,  110. 

Chimney -tops,  111. 

Dunkerry  Cave,  108. 

Gateway,  110. 

Loom,  110. 

Organ,  110. 

Pleaskin,  111. 

Portcoon  Cave,  107. 

Steucans,  108. 
Glenarm,  117. 
Glenhrook,  37. 
Glencree,  Valley  of,  18. 
Glendalough,  Vale  of,  22. 
Glengariff,  49,  50. 
Glenmalure,  28. 
Glen  of  the  Downs,  18. 
Gougane  Barra,  50. 
Grey  Man's  Path,  115. 

Ilaulhowline  Island,  36. 

Holy  Island,  Lough  Derg  (Donegal),  97- 

Howth,  7. 

Ahbey,  7. 

Castle,  8. 

College,  8. 

Harhour,  9. 

Hill,  9. 

Lighthouse,  9. 

Innisfallen,  63. 

Abbey,  63. 
Ireland's  Eye,  10. 
"  Island  Magee,"  117. 

Keimaneigh,  Pass  of,  51. 
Kenbane  Head,  113. 
Kcnmare,  50. 
Kilbarron  Castle,  95. 
Kilkce,  83. 

Cave  of,  83. 

Puffing  Rock,  84. 


Killaloe,  81. 

Killarney,  Routes  to,  49 — 51. 

Islands,  53,  56,  60,  63,  65. 

Lakes,  51,  54,  55,56,59. 
Killiney  Hill,  11. 
Kilrush,  83. 
Kingstown,  10. 

Harbour,  10. 
Kippure  Mountains,  18. 


Lambay  Island,  10. 
Larne,  117. 
Laune,  River,  53. 
Lee,  River,  37. 
Liffey,  River,  3. 
Limerick,  City,  73. 
Lismore,  44. 

Castle,  44. 
Long  Range  (Killarney),  52,  55. 
Londonderry,  102. 
Lough  Allua,  50. 

Bray,  18. 

Dan,  21. 

Derg  (Clare),  81. 

Derg  (Donegal),  97- 

Esk,  98,  100. 

Erne,  90,  92. 

Foyle,  103. 

Guitane,  72. 

Mourne,  101. 

Tay,  21. 
Lover's  Leap,  the  (Wicklow),  14. 
Luggelaw,  21. 

McCarthy  Mores,  the,  57. 
Macgillicuddy's  Reeks,  70. 
Malahide,  10. 

Castle,  10. 
Mangerton,  71. 
Marino,  7. 

Meeting  of  the  "Waters,  the,  29. 
Moher,  Cliffs  of,  85. 
Monkstown,  36. 
Moore's,  Tom,  birthplace,  6. 

Statue  of,  6. 
Mount  Charles,  100. 
Mount  Melleray  Abbey,  46. 
Muckross  Abbey,  57. 

House,  59. 
Mullingar,  90. 

Nelson  Monument,  5. 
Newton  Mount  Kennedy,  19. 


126 


INDEX. 


O'Donoghue  of  the  Lakes,  62. 
Ovoca,  Vale  of,  29. 

Passage,  37. 

Pleaskin  (Giant's  Causeway),  111. 
Portcoon  Cave,  107. 
Powerscourt,  16. 

Waterfall,  16. 
Pullins  Gap,  the,  95. 
Purple  Mountain,  67- 

Queenstown,  36. 

Rabbit  Island,  59. 

Rathlin,  or  Raghery  Island,  114. 

Reeks,  MacgillicudcLy's,  70. 

Rosanna,  20. 

Ross  Bridges  (Clare),  84. 

Ross  Castle  (Killarney),  61. 

Island,  60. 
Round  Towers,  24. 
Roundwood,  21. 

St.  Kevin,  22,  26. 

Bed  of,  27,  28. 
Kitchen,  25. 
Legend  of,  26,  27. 


St.  Patrick's  Purgatory,  97. 
St.  Senanus,  82. 

Legend  of,  82,  83. 
Scalp,  the,  13. 
Scattery  Island,  82. 
Shannon,  River,  77,  81. 
Spike  Island,  36. 
Station  Island  (Donegal),  97. 
Steucans,  the,  108. 
Swords,  10. 

Tarbert,  82. 

Tolka,  River,  6. 

Tomies,  the,  67-  . 

Tore  Mountain  (Killarney),  56. 

Cascade,  56. 

Lake,  56. 

Vale  of  Ovoca,  29. 
Vartry,  River,  20. 

"Wellington  Testimonial,  Dublin,  5. 
White  Rocks,  105. 
Wicklow,  County,  12. 
Wooden  Bridge,  30. 

Yew-tree,  Muckross  Abbey,  57. 
Youghal,  42. 


PKIKTED    BY    VlttTUE    AND   CO.,    CITY    KOAD,    LONDON'. 


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